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Weak GM corp. 10 bolt

Chaz88K5

1/2 ton status
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Feb 17, 2000
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Stockton/Lodi CA
If put a locker in a 10 bolt will it hold up. or will it still be a junk diff.? i really dont want to go through all the hassle of tryin to find a 12 bolt + i need to change the gears in the rear because i want to go with 35" tires....so i dont want the gas mileage to go to crap..
Chaz

"whoo my new pic is on the photo page...check it out!!"
 
I posted a fix to help correct the problems with the 10 and 12 bolt rear axles. Warn has made a full floating rear axle asemble to stop the c-clips from braking and your axle coming out. The 10 is weaker then the 12 you may want to call a junk yard and see if you can get a rebuilder for a good price and then you can do the swap in your free time.

C'moe

<font color=black>the blazer is "Back in Black"
 
hey Chaz,I just put a tru-trac in mine 2 weeks ago.I can't say if it'll hold up or not but after wheelin' on sunday i can tell you that it really helped alot.I put a detroit locker in the rear and went to 4.10 gears too.
Oh yeah,I finally out-crawled by buddy's Donco for the first time.

Yes,I have driven over a F*&d lately!
 
so it sounds like i would be ok to stick with my 10 bolt....stripin it down is no big deal...i have access to another vehical to drive while its torn down...but my thinkin is it would be cheeper just to keep what i got but put the locker and change the gears in the front and rear.....but i saw a kit on 4wheel parts wholesalers that came with front and rear gears, front detroit true trac limited slip diff, rear detroit full automatic locker, all the bearings and setup parts for 1,323.95...dose that sound like a good deal or do u think i could get it cheeper.
Chaz

"whoo my new pic is on the photo page...check it out!!"
 
Thats (basically) where i got mine from.I found an add in the back of their little magazine that they send to past customers.It had a different name and the price was $100 bucks cheaper but i never got the bearings for the axles.I even called them about it and they said they would ship them.AAAAAaaaanyways when it showed up the shipping label was from 4w parts.Make sure that you understand everything that they will send you,I was pretty unsure due to the guys accent.Good luck!
Check out my post about Lockers.Thats the only prob I've had so far but i don't think it's a real problem.Have to wait for an answer.
Yes,I have driven over a F*&d lately!
 
Putting a locker in the rear, assuming it is a "full case" like the Detroit (not a Lock-Rite), then it will add a lot of beef to the 10-bolt. By your username, I'm assuming you have an '88 which means you probably have the smaller 28 spline axle shafts. This would be an ideal time to upgrade to the larger 30 spline axles since you are changing the diff anyway. Shops such as Moser, Superior Axle and Gear, and Dutchman carry high strength replacement axles for about $250/pair.
The combination of a locker and the axle shafts should really give you a fairly strong rear end. For some articles, check out the 10-bolt beefing articles at 4x4review.com. Four Wheeler magazine also has done some articles on this in the past year or so.
 
if i change to the 30 spline would i be able to stay with the 6 lug or would it be time to buy new wheels too?
my plan is to buy some new ones anyway but i dont want to have 8 in the rear and 6 in the front....
Weld typhoons are in my future! =-)
Also what gear ratio should i get if i am goin for 35" tires...i am goin to put 33" for the next set untill i get the fender cut outs..
i think it has 3.73's in it now....anyway someone give me any opinon ya got

Chaz
By the way i drive my blazer 30 miles round trip to work and back....and when i have time i go climbin in it...it will prob never see the mud (dont like cleanin it off)


"whoo my new pic is on the photo page...check it out!!"
 
Chaz,I went with 4.10's which really helped over the stock 3.08's.I've been driving it for 2 weeks now and sometimes wish i had gone for the 4.56's.I have 35x15.5 swamper sx's an they are so damn heavy it's still tough to get it rolling without slipping the clutch.My motor's a little tired though too.

Yes,I have driven over a F*&d lately!
 
10-bolt rear axles only came in 5 lug (2wd) or 6 lug (4wd) so there would be no problem with staying with the 6 lug pattern.
Re-thinking my previous post, you might already have 30 spline axles in the rear for the '88. To find out for sure, you can check a GM dealers part department or call someplace like Randy's Ring and Pinion, or just pull the axle out and count the number of splines. Either way, it's still not a bad idea to invest in the good shafts, especially if you want to use it on the trail.
Just as an idea of the strength increase of the axle shafts, according to pretty much all of the sources I have contacted......about 10% increase for each additional spline (30 spline would be 20% stronger than 28 spline) assuming same material and application. The heat treated alloy (a.k.a. Moser, etc..) would add another 15-20%. So going from stock 28 splines to alloy 30 splines should give a 35-40% strength increase......remember this is estimated, nobody seemed to have any hard numbers on it.
 
I have thought about this and posted about this too..I got into a, we'll call it a disagreement, with some guy on another board and havent been back since...I wanted to keep the 10 bolt and beef it up so I called around and this is what I found...these are rounded of course- detroit locker 500-600$ Warn full floater kit 700$ Local axel shop labor to change all of this 300$ ring and pinion 150-200$ install kit 100$. So I looked at boyceequipment.com they have a 14 bolt 1 ton ff 4.56 gears with detroit locker for 1100 bucks. I have never dealt with them but it seemed like a good deal to me, rebuilt, new brakes, painted..all pretty with big bow on it Hmmmmmm...
 
Just remember, going to a ff 14 bolt would require buying new tires and wheels (around $1000) and converting the front end to 8 lug to match. Plus the ground clearance and weight drawbacks of the 14.
 
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