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Weak Link?

What Broke?

  • SM465

    Votes: 1 1.2%
  • NP208

    Votes: 13 15.5%
  • 10B front w/stock shafts & locker

    Votes: 49 58.3%
  • 14bff w/Detroit

    Votes: 10 11.9%
  • Square front Dshaft w/stock CV

    Votes: 2 2.4%
  • Stock Rear Driveshaft

    Votes: 9 10.7%

  • Total voters
    84
It's pretty common to break a Detroit when a shaft lets go, so that's not unusual at all.

Overall I think breaking a 14FF shaft first is a fluke, so I wouldn't start thinking that 10-bolts and 208's are bulletproof or anything. I would say that 99% of the time the 14FF would NOT be the first to break, but under the right circumstances obviously it can. As already mentioned fatigue, bent housing, manufacturing flaw, or just the right circumstance could have made it fail. Wedge a rear tire down in the rocks and try to power out of it and boom.
 
From what I have read no rear axle shafts are really Chromo in the form of 4340 Chromoly like front shafts are. Someone does make aftermarket shafts but they probably aren't really necessary for 99.9% of us.

10B=D44 strength wise

With 39.5's you are definilty in the breakage zone for D44 stuff for sure but it can be done as long as you drive smart. Another AZ guy runs Warn Chromo shafts in his D44 with 42's and a BBC and has gotten away with it sofar. He is lighter then stock by a fair amount and he drives smart. You are MUCH more likely to break a 10b or D44 shaft before a 14ff shaft.

Harley
 
thanks for the great info guys. I am really hesitant to upgrade my d44 w/ chromo shafts and CTM joints because I will more than likely upgrade to a d60 at some point in time.
That is the same reason I run a tru trac= less srtess. I have yet to get the buggy into some serious rock obstacles, hopefully soon though!!!
 
Wheel what you got and see how it lasts. With 39.5's a D60 is your best longterm option especially if you get heavy into the rocks here in AZ. Shortterm I would run what you got and see if/what you break.

Harley
 
I am gonna have to run what I have cause I dont have the $$$ to invest on the 60. I need to make a new tie rod, long story. And figure out how to get the thing Registered in AZ.
 
Check the Regional section. I posted them in there. I can post them in the general forum tomorrow if you want. I also just posted on getting it registered in AZ and driving it on the street.

Matt (az-k5) might be able to get you a little better idea of what you need to drive it on the street. He daily drove a heavy chopped up truggy on the street for years.

Harley
 
you can get rear shafts in 4340... or 300m... just gotta pay da piper. 300m shafts + a yukon spool would own all. :grin:

j
 
FF shafts most likely. I was told most aftermarket rear shafts are not 4340 especially in SF applications because 4340 isn't the best material for holding the weight of the vehicle and also the normal twisting forces.

Some of the super high end stuff for FF's are probably 4340 and 300m like your saying but the normal (yukon, superior, alloy usa, etc)stuff from what I have read/heard isn't. :dunno:

Harley
 
Hossbaby50 said:
Check the Regional section. I posted them in there. I can post them in the general forum tomorrow if you want. I also just posted on getting it registered in AZ and driving it on the street.

Matt (az-k5) might be able to get you a little better idea of what you need to drive it on the street. He daily drove a heavy chopped up truggy on the street for years.

Harley


Thanks again Harley! I'll take a look...:bow:
 
good thing im going with a d70hd:haha:

there musta been a flaw in the shaft or something, those things are beef
 

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