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Weatherstrip question

T

TBHShane

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Abilene, TX
The Blazer I bought didn't have a top. I have a top painted and ready to put on it now, and I have new weatherstripping to go on it. The top had old weather stripping on it - around the rim where it joins the cab and underneath the rails where it joins the back quarter panels. I have a 4th seal though. Where does that go? On the cab where it would meet up with the seal that's on the top?

I can't find a pic anywhere that shows that.
 
Absent factory pictures, the LMC catalog will likely have a pretty good image of the various seals.

But for the two cab to top seals, I think there was a thread just a couple weeks back (at most) that had some pics in it showing these two.
 
LMC catalog shows things exploded, and I can't really tell where the 2nd cab-to-top seal goes.
 
I got all the seals glued on this evening. Didn't take long at all. The seals I got from 1A Auto fit perfectly. Letting the adhesive cure a while before we put the top on.

One more question....

The chrome rails. Do those go between the body and the top, or does the top sit directly on the body of the Blazer with the chrome rails inside and on top of the lip at the base of the top? Make sense?
 
Nevermind. I figured it out. They go on inside on top of the roof with the roof sitting directly on the body. I had to take the side panels off and use a big C clamp to pull the roof down flush to the body up near the cab. Worked great.
 
Be careful doing that. I noticed my top is splitting at the seam between the cab portion and the bed. I'm not sure why there is a problem in that area, but apparently I'm not the only one that has it.

When I took the top off, I noticed GM had used some sort of black goop (like butyl rubber) at the front of the bed rails, angling out at about a 45* angle. Best I can tell, it was to keep water from running down the length of the bed rail if it got in between the cab seals, probably to prevent rust. If you take the top off fairly often, and the rest of the seals work, probably not an issue.
 
So GM had injected the black goop in a triangular gap under the front part of the top to seal up the gap where the roof didn't go all the way down?

That's what I had when I first set the top on. The back end sat down just fine, but at the cab the top seemed to be dragging on the weatherstripping such that it wouldn't seat all the way down to the bed rails. Once I put the clamp on it, it went down fairly easily. I'll watch it to see if it starts cracking in the middle of the top side though.

I thought I would have to find something to shoot into the gap to seal it up if I couldn't get the top to sit down all the way.
 
Hard to describe, unfortunately I didn't take pics...it's just a strip of the stuff at best a 1/4" wide, about 3" long, that crosses the bed rail from inside to outside.

Dielectric grease is recommended (by GM no less) for seal preservation, it also probably doesn't hurt to make sure they don't stick together, and should decrease any tendency for the gaskets to cause mating issues.

Last time I put the top back on, I watched as the gap at the seam grew as I tightened the bolts down, and I even played around tightening either the cab to top bolts first, or the bed rail bolts first, either way didn't seem like the top wanted to just sit flush on the rails at the front. Not sure what possibly would cause that, unless it's the cab seals/metal lip around the cab having manufacturing tolerances that don't work well with the tolerances of a particular top. The top is heavy enough that it should easily compress the gaskets before the top seam starts to get stressed.
 
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