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Welded Diferential?????

J

Jessejames

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Up state ny
So I'm cheap. And I know this works but, have yet to see it done or drive a rig that's full lock all time. I'm not building a crawler, just a capable daily driver.
My question is will it hold up to daily driving and the abuse of occasional wheelin??? I know it's rough on axles but that's no biggie. I'm runnin a factory 10 bolt.
 
Its torture for tires and axles. I wouldnt exactly recommend it, but then again I have done it to several vehicles I drove daily. Its odd to get used to, specially in parking lots, but nothing that cant be gotten used to. I would say save up for a locker, and probably a better/stronger rearend. But if you dont like it, thats a common rear end and you can always find another one dirt cheap if you dont like the way it handles welded.
 
I gues I don't understand how the handling would be affected? Is there a link or a web site that will walk through how to do it? My uncle had a truck with welded front and rear and I tried and tried gettin that stuck but I wound up snapping an axle.
 
Tires burn off in like half the time and a pain in the A$$ to drive. For what you will replace tires, axles, or rear end for you can get a locker or limited slip (not first choice) for the money. Been there done that, not 19 and a dumb a$$ anymore.

I would only weld for a dedicated off roader and even then I make enough now, not to. Just a couple pennies worth,
 
Jessejames said:
I gues I don't understand how the handling would be affected?
Click to expand...

The outside tire on a turn spins diffrently than the inside tire, When you weld them you no longer have that. On dirt not a problem you'll get slip. On pavement it scuffs the tires and puts extra stress on the axle and with both of them spinning the same changes the geometry of your turn radius with both rear tires trying to chase the front turning radius.

I may not be explaining it correctly but welded=bad juju on pavement.
 
Idk what rype of occasional wheeling you do, but i play in the sand with open diffs front and back and. iHonestly have no problems. Will a locker make it much easier? Oh hellz yah, and i will be putting one in mine. But ten bolt and welded dif is going to leave you stranded somewhere with you axle and tire hanging out of the axle housing. Save for a locker is my opinion.
 
OK yall answerd my questions. Thanks, just wanted to say that this forum is awesome. What is best locker for less???
 
OK yall answerd my questions. Thanks, just wanted to say that this forum is awesome. What is best locker for less???
 
Craigslist.

Lockright would prolly be the best for road use for cheaper ish than like a Detroit.


What kind of wheeling are you doing that you really need a locker for?
 
Well after the other replys I'm on the fence about doing it. I was originally thinking both. I'm no mechanical wiz, so forgive me if I'm talkin out my hind end. I've never had a locker and Am CHEAP. But if y'all say bad idea then I'll listen
 
I would skip a locker in a 10b rear.
Why? The rear axle takes the most abuse and 10 bolts aren't that strong in the first place. If somthing breaks, you had better hope its in the front. Unlock the hubs and drive home. Then you can still drive it to work the next day.

Lock the front. Just don't turn the wheels all the way and stand on the throttle. If somthing breaks, so what. Fix it when you can.

Also, when you step up to a 14b rear, you can keep that front locker instead of having to buy a new one right away.

Just my .02.
 
All the "wear stuff out, maybe break stuff etc" is valid points. But what it will do that you will notice imediatly handling wise is make the truck want to go straight. Depending on conditions depends on how noticable. You will notice it and havebto drive different(snow rain etc). Some people dont mind. Different pavement conditions and how tight u turn will effect how it feels. Tighter the turn worse it will be. Also on locking front end for "off road only" will make it push too. Sometimes worth the trade off for maximum traction. having true 3 wheel drive(open front something in back locker spool welded) is a ton of traction that most people arnt even used to. Heck, even 2.5 drive like a good limited slip is better traction than most need and are use to

Imo for something that sees more road id personally want to have a locker or limited slip depending. I wouldnt spool it or weld it in the rear
 
All the pushing with locked front sounds good in theory. But not necessarily how it happens in real life.

A real locker will push as much as a front. Or worse. My dd is only locked in the front. No hubs either. It might as well not be there.

But, I also dd'd a spooled k5 for 5 years. :screwy:
 
So y'all are sayin to run the locker in the front leave the rear till I can up grade?
I know of a set of old school d44s that im sure I can get. but I've been told its not worth it. I thought about putting them under it. But a few guys say it's over kill but that's what I'm lookin for. I figure if I build it to take twice the abuse than it will ever see then ill have no problem. I'm thinking 350(carbed) sm465/np205 and a set of 44s I should have no problems. I'm plannin on plowing and DD as of next winter and some mild wheeling. If the 44s aren't worth it then what should I do as far as axles.
 
10 bolts and Dana 44's are virtually the same axle, each has a little edge but ultimately they're basically the same.

What size tire?
 
Currently has 31s and I prolly won't go much bigger. I'm not building a jacked up flip me over machine Or a rock crawler. Just a mean little DD as of now there is no lift and not plannin one. I want simple and nasty. No A/c,no super stereo, no rear heat. No extra crap.
 
Jessejames said:
Currently has 31s and I prolly won't go much bigger. I'm not building a jacked up flip me over machine Or a rock crawler. Just a mean little DD as of now there is no lift and not plannin one. I want simple and nasty. No A/c,no super stereo, no rear heat. No extra crap.
Click to expand...

If you want a nasty dd, build a motor. Lockers won't do us much unless you have a serious need to burn 2 tires instead of one...
 
Jessejames said:
Currently has 31s and I prolly won't go much bigger. I'm not building a jacked up flip me over machine Or a rock crawler. Just a mean little DD as of now there is no lift and not plannin one. I want simple and nasty. No A/c,no super stereo, no rear heat. No extra crap.
Click to expand...

The welded diff puts a lot more stress on the carrier and shafts, keep that in mind. Even making turns on pavement will take it's toll on the life of those parts.

As for the front, a spool/welded spiders are super hard on parts. Even with 31's, your frame and steering system will see a lot more force (with more force on the frame and steering parts) and you'll have difficulty steering. I wouldn't recommend a welded rear for any vehicle, even trail only.
 
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