79bonanza
1/2 ton status
well i know its been beat to death but would my half ton axles with 33's survive welded front and rear. i have a heavy foot sometimes off road but only a 250 under the hood.
CK5
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welded diffs front and rear
- Thread starter 79bonanza
- Start date
Nope. They will probably blow up. And welded front is all bad....you won't really be able to turn much.
Weld the rear, run it til it explodes, then upgrade.
Weld the rear, run it til it explodes, then upgrade.
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
yea thats what i figured, dont really want to upgrade this truck just yet. putting money into another truck right now
milspecjimmy
1/2 ton status
It should work perfect.. Just make sure to take your video camera when you go out so we can see what happens
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I am welded front but have a 3/4 ton 10 bolt with upgraded shafts.
I only lock the long shaft side in unless I really need both locked. I also don't give gobs of skinny pedal with the wheels turned.
Definitely have a spare set of shafts and hubs along. I haven't snapped a shaft yet but I have smoked a hub.
I only lock the long shaft side in unless I really need both locked. I also don't give gobs of skinny pedal with the wheels turned.
Definitely have a spare set of shafts and hubs along. I haven't snapped a shaft yet but I have smoked a hub.
Im welded front and rear on my trail rig with 3/4 tons but the front is still a 10 bolt. My tires measure 34" and haven't broken anything in 2 years but I expect it every time I go out and keep lots of spare parts around. It also doesnt turn worth a crap with stock steering but Ive got crossover and hydro assist waiting to be installed so that should help.
Most likely you are going to break it at some point and steering is going to suck. If you want to be able to turn easily or are unable to deal with the breakage don't do it.
Most likely you are going to break it at some point and steering is going to suck. If you want to be able to turn easily or are unable to deal with the breakage don't do it.
Should be no more stress than running a Detroit or Lock-right in them and I really don't think they will randomly explode at the first site of dirt and kill a bus full of nuns like is being hinted at above. Let's not get carried away as you typically don't need 1-tons when running 33's and a 250 I-6.
My biggest concern would be on road drivability. With the cold, snowy, icy crap winter we've had this year I'd not weld the front. That was bad juju with wheelers in Michigan because it made it super hard to steer in 4x4.
In the back? Knock yourself out but drive smart.
In the back? Knock yourself out but drive smart.
trustyrusty
Registered Member
Like has been said before 10000000+times 10bolts are gonna break at some point. the rougher you are with them the sooner it's gonna happen. Also it's gonna happen when you are least prepaired to deal with it(Murphy's Law).
Welded diffs.+heavy foot=Carnage.
That 250 has more than enough oomph to make scrambled eggs outta it.
If you keep your revs. down(whole purpose of adding locking diffs.) you will probably be fine. Biggest culprit of diff. destruction is mad spinning a wheel and having it grab all of a sudden.
I have never seen the need for high revs with locked or welded diffs. unless you are doing a mud bog race. Is that what you are doing?
Welded diffs.+heavy foot=Carnage.
That 250 has more than enough oomph to make scrambled eggs outta it.
If you keep your revs. down(whole purpose of adding locking diffs.) you will probably be fine. Biggest culprit of diff. destruction is mad spinning a wheel and having it grab all of a sudden.
I have never seen the need for high revs with locked or welded diffs. unless you are doing a mud bog race. Is that what you are doing?
Detroits and Lock-Rights have some slop built into them and this makes them MUCH easier on shafts and joints than a spool. Basically the tire can rotate some before everything binds up, while the spool is binding everything as soon as the wheel is turned.
Longfield will warranty their shafts with a Detroit, Lock-Right etc but they won't with a spool because they kill shafts.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
Weld it, then wheel it...
Explode it, then upgrade or toss in another...
Turn up the heat/wire speed and get after it...
Explode it, then upgrade or toss in another...
Turn up the heat/wire speed and get after it...
I disagree. The "slop" in a Detroit or Lock-right causes shock loads which break shafts. There is no cushion or anything in those that lessens the shock load, and the last time I checked "slop" causes breakage. A loose bolt with slop has a larger chance of failing them something tight with no slop. What about those stories of the loud banging and lane changing caused by a Detroit? Where do you think that load is transferred between, maybe the shafts? The same theory is also why breaking a shaft often fails a Detroit, it's just the shock load going the other way and the slop causes a huge shock load.
I knew someone would come up with that argument
In theory that seems right but my experience and that of others seems to say that mechanical lockers are easier on shafts/joints than spools.
trustyrusty
Registered Member
I knew someone would come up with that argument
In theory that seems right but my experience and that of others seems to say that mechanical lockers are easier on shafts/joints than spools.
You can make the argument that the slop being easier on shafts is theory also. Not saying I am an expert, but I am a mechanical engineer who does automotive durability testing for a living and have been wheelin' for years. There are a lot of guys running spools or welded diffs in our club and I don't see any noticable increase in broken parts on those rigs as compared to the ones with Detroits.
To me, completely unprofessional knows enough to be dangerous guy, it seems like you guys are both arguing for the reasons the lockers and spools both damage stuff.
Lockers have the banging from locking and unlocking. Shock loads.
Spools/welding means the diff can never unlock and release that tension that builds up unless a tire slips and releases it. Tire doesn't slip, the twist keeps happening, something breaks.
Different symptoms and causes, same result...broke stuff.
Lockers have the banging from locking and unlocking. Shock loads.
Spools/welding means the diff can never unlock and release that tension that builds up unless a tire slips and releases it. Tire doesn't slip, the twist keeps happening, something breaks.
Different symptoms and causes, same result...broke stuff.
dirtygoat
1/2 ton status
79bonanza
1/2 ton status
dang guys no need to get your panies in a bunch lol, seems the answer is "its a 10 bolt its goin to break regaurdless" just welded it will break sooner. owell i guess ill just keep my one wheel peel and always having to rock back and fourth to get out of the tough spots for now. thanks for all the responces
This carries a lot of weight here. Im sure they have done their homework!
