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welded front 10 bolt

muddysub

muddysub

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should i do this to a daily driver? i don't see why not but there are things i don't know. obviously i don't drive around with the hubs locked in all the time, so how would it effect the truck other than improving traction? would it hurt my turning radius? it's a suburban so i need every bit of turning radius help i can get.

--Scott, 1989 GMC Suburban 2500 4" lift, 36" TSLs
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When you are in 4 high you will loose turning radius big time. My Jimmy is locked up front and it sucks when you are locked in.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
your huge pig of a suburban can't turn as it is!

as long as you're in 2wd, the hubs are un-splined to the axleshafts, and therefore don't give a crap about what's goin down inside your differential. that is to say, things wouldn't be different. now, grab a fistfulla 4WD, and when you turn, it's gonna push, instead of differentiating between the different radiuses of your front tires...... but you will have dookey traction.... provided you can get that beast aimed at what you wanna conquer!!!!!!!

greg

** i'm so money **
 
hmmmm... does any one make a posi/limited slip for it? or should i go with an ARB? (too much money right now)

--Scott, 1989 GMC Suburban 2500 4" lift, 36" TSLs
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Not sure what you wheel on (rocks, dirt, mud, etc), but a welded 10-bolt front sounds like a recipe for snapped axle u-joints and axleshafts to me. Especially in a Sub on 36" Swampers.
My personal opinion says an ARB up front is ideal. Locked solid when you need traction, wide-open when you need to turn. I know they're expensive though...

Ken

<font color=blue>America--Land of the Free, Home of the Brave<font color=black>
 
I would not weld the front 10 bolt if you do any real wheeling! Too hard to steer and you will waste ujoints and shafts.

I have run an ARB in my front 10 bolt (87 k5) with 36 inch TSLs for a couple years, and have had good luck - no broken parts yet! But I also run Warn chromoloy shafts and fusible clutches...may have something to do with it.

While locked, the ARB acts the same as a welded diff. It is very hard to steer while locked - you have to drive with care to avoid broken parts.
 
You could do thia and it would perform nicely, if you dont snap front shafts. It will make turning in 4 wheel harder, but every where else you would love it. If you didnt snap shafts.

I would go with a limited slip, a couple companies make them. Would be easier on the front end and still get you some estra traction.
ARB will snap shafts also. When the aRB is locked in, it acts the same way a Detroit, or welded front does.

Ken H.

'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
Weld the damn thing and put crossover steering on it and forget about it. If you act stupid you will break shafts if you dont you very rarely will. I had a 44 in mine and ran 6 5+ rated trails since July I last broke a U-joint. Dont stab the throttle with the wheels turned and you will be fine.

I thought I was wrong once,
but I was mistaken
 
I disagree completely on this one. You are one lucky gey to not break on 10 bolt front.
What are the stats on the truck you run 1/2 ton fronts and never break?

Guys I wheel with trash 1/2 ton fronts all the time.

But, we do run 35+ tires and real healthy motors.

Ken H.

'86 K5 in parts
1-ton 454 44 TSLs
 
I wouldn't put much money into it personally. If you do anything, I would say go for an insert locker and go easy on it, especially when the wheels are turned. For the cost of a carrier type LS (or Detroit) along with gear setup, you are getting close to the cost of a D60. If you also want to change gears, there is NO WAY I would put that $$ into a C10 or D44 (especially on a Sub running 36"+). Just find a D60 with the right gears, stick an insert locker into it, and call it good. Couple hundred $ over what you would have in the 1/2 ton axle, give up a small amount of clearance and weight, but you got something that will easily hold up to a sub on 36" tires. That's just me though. I don't like walking or spending allot of time replacing shafts and joints.

Russ

85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
 
Whether it's welded, has a Detroit or other drop-in locker, or an ARB that's engaged (locked up), your chances of breaking parts are the same.

Leaving it open or installing a limited slip are about the only ways you will help parts survive, though with sensible driving a front 10-bolt can hold up reasonably well. The problem with a limited slip is, though it does help some, it is not a locker and depending on what type of fourwheeling you do it can leave you disappointed when the traction difference between the two front tires cannot be overcome by the limited slip and only 1 tire is spinning.

I have also broken a couple of front axle u-joints with a front limited slip and sometimes think that if I had a full locker in the front they would not have broke. The reason is that with the limited slip I either had to give it more gas to try to get over an obstacle or I was riding the brakes a little to try to get it to lock up.

Personally, I would also go for a drop-in style locker (Lock-Right) and go for it.
 
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