What does your fully locked rig drive like on the trail? I imagine not being able to turn, but I've never done it. Do you unlock a hub sometimes just to make it more drivable? Thinking of welding my diffs until I can spring for some lockers.
CK5
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Welded front & rear
- Thread starter nedceifus
- Start date
Do you street drive it at all? If so, tire wear will be an issue. Previously, I always ran a Detroit Locker in the rear and loved it. Now I have a spool in the rear and it's extremely noticeable, the truck almost always feels bound up and will NOT roll through a turn (like pulling out of my driveway). Fortunately, this is a primarily a trail truck so it's not an issue.
I had a welded front for a while and it was a PITA to trail ride with, zero turning radius. Nowadays hydraulic assist would fix this but this was back in the stone age before all that.
I had a welded front for a while and it was a PITA to trail ride with, zero turning radius. Nowadays hydraulic assist would fix this but this was back in the stone age before all that.
You have hydro assist, so you'll have the power to steer it. It will push in low traction situations, but the locker will too.
The main drawback to the spool is that it's bound up all the time and puts more wear and tear on the axle shafts and joints. Mechanical lockers have slop built into them and I believe this is one reason why; if you work the steering wheel back/forth slightly the slop in the locker takes it up while the spool is bound up and twisting your axle shafts back/forth every time. There are axle manufacturers that will warranty a shaft with a locker but not with a spool.
I wouldn't let it hold you back from using the rig though, I'd rather be wheeling with spools than not at all.
The main drawback to the spool is that it's bound up all the time and puts more wear and tear on the axle shafts and joints. Mechanical lockers have slop built into them and I believe this is one reason why; if you work the steering wheel back/forth slightly the slop in the locker takes it up while the spool is bound up and twisting your axle shafts back/forth every time. There are axle manufacturers that will warranty a shaft with a locker but not with a spool.
I wouldn't let it hold you back from using the rig though, I'd rather be wheeling with spools than not at all.
I have a welded front and a Detroit in the rear. I can navigate Tuttle Creek just fine.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
i am welded front and rear with ag tires. I wouldn't have it any other way. I don't wheel in rocks, but i do just fine on the trails and mud. I do notice sometimes i have to backup and make a 3 point turn on atv trails. I drove it on the street some with it welded back when i had boggers. I did notice it on sharp turns like at the driveway and stuff.. Hydro assist is a must when you are welded in the front. and if i am on really tight trails i keep 1 hub unlocked which helps a ton
I am welded in the front and a Detroit in the rear. Trail only and as mentioned above with hydro assist it's no big deal. I did one trip without hydro and couldn't steer at all. My welded front was supposed to be temporary 4-5 years ago, but it just works so it's hard to justify $800+ for a locker.
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Yep same with me. I do often do driver's side hub locked, passenger not. Hydro was a must and yes the multi point turns do happen. I do blow some hubs but not bad. Learning throttle control has helped.
I have a full spool rear and detroit front. If I ever am pushing my steer axle I just shift the front output into neutral and steer like an open diff. If I need front traction and steering I can fron dig and put the rear in neutral. the spool plants the rig pretty well. I've had most combinations and this is my most useful.
Had spools front and rear, with no Hydra just cross over steering on 37's. With both hubs locked, I was to able to turn on soft stuff (Cinders, sand, soft dirt) pretty well, on rocks or street, tacky dirt it was nearly impossible and if I did, they wanted to straighten back out when on the gas.
Detroit in the front, welded out back. I just take the transfer case out of front drive for getting from hard spot to hard spot. I don't really feel much " Foreword pushing " from the front end while in front drive.
I didn't weld the rear solid, I just welded in between the teeth on the spider gears where they meet. That way it has a little movement ( Maybe .010" - .020" ) Which I think helps put less shock on the shafts....Been holding up for 10 years so far.
I didn't weld the rear solid, I just welded in between the teeth on the spider gears where they meet. That way it has a little movement ( Maybe .010" - .020" ) Which I think helps put less shock on the shafts....Been holding up for 10 years so far.
gonefishin
1/2 ton status
i've heard both ways on that. Some people say that shock loads it more than fully welded, because it has momentum and then suddenly stops at the welds. I welded mine solid and it's been going strong with 6000rpm clutch dumps. I don't know which is better, but if yours has held up that long it must not be too bad.
Yup I am welded front and rear. Turning on the trail with everything locked isn't horrible if you have hydro assist. I do take more 3 point turns than most people through the trails.
I'm welded rear with a Lock-right in the front. The welded rear was going to be temporary.......that was probably 10 years ago. I think a spool/welded rear and locker front is a good combination. I know a couple other guys welded front and rear and the one thing that really helps is being able to disengage the front axle in order to run 2 low. They just disengage the front axle when running between obstacles and it doesn't steer too bad. Obviously with the hubs locked you still get a little bit of negative steering from the front since they are still locked together. That is also why I like an actual locker because if in 2wd with the hubs locked (or drive flanges in my case) it is the same as an open diff. I will say that with the Lock-right it will stay disengaged if you are easy on the throttle and not under load or spinning the tires while you are snaking through the trees.
I have seen a few guys with welded fronts and without the option of 2 low run with only one front hub locked. Really seemed like a PITA and they didn't stay that way very long. One thing that I have noticed, and also the same way with guys with a front locker after breaking a shaft or u-joint, is that you get really weird handling and pretty poor performance. Really seems like an open front diff does better than a locker/welded with just one hub locked. I have seen several not bother to lock the other hub in thinking it is a small obstacle and they don't need it, only to get hung up and have to climb out in the mud or on a steep hill to lock the other hub in.
In any case, if you only weld one I would suggest the rear. If you are running a 14FF open diff you can just weld the spider and side gears together and make a mini-spool that goes inside the stock case. That way if you go to a Detroit or similar later you can just pull it out and slap in the locker versus having to go to a whole new carrier. I do suggest welding it solid.
I have seen a few guys with welded fronts and without the option of 2 low run with only one front hub locked. Really seemed like a PITA and they didn't stay that way very long. One thing that I have noticed, and also the same way with guys with a front locker after breaking a shaft or u-joint, is that you get really weird handling and pretty poor performance. Really seems like an open front diff does better than a locker/welded with just one hub locked. I have seen several not bother to lock the other hub in thinking it is a small obstacle and they don't need it, only to get hung up and have to climb out in the mud or on a steep hill to lock the other hub in.
In any case, if you only weld one I would suggest the rear. If you are running a 14FF open diff you can just weld the spider and side gears together and make a mini-spool that goes inside the stock case. That way if you go to a Detroit or similar later you can just pull it out and slap in the locker versus having to go to a whole new carrier. I do suggest welding it solid.
No 6000rpm dumps here.
But 44 Boggers on the rocks will put a strain on things. I would think a Detroit with it's 1/4 to 1/2 turn backlash would put a pretty hit on a axle shaft. I can barely turn the driveshaft before things start turning.
No 6000rpm dumps here.
Thats one reason I run the cheap warn hubs. Odds are they will go boom before an axle.
