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Welded rear and np203?

78Suburban

78Suburban

1/2 ton status
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Does any body have experience with Full Time 4 wheel drive and a welded rear or spool? I am thinking of perhaps welding my rear end, but I am not planing on converting my truck to part time. Has anyone run a setup like this? How did it do on the street, or wheeling? The full time 4 wheel drive handles quirkey enough as it is... will welding (or spooling) make my transfercase go crazy?
thanks,
James :bow:
 
Its not gonna matter if its full time or part time if its the rear diff. The rear diff is always receiving torque anyways. You will notice a reduced turning radius and some "push" of the front tires will turning. Maybe churping in tight corners. Accelerated wear of the tires also occurs.
 
So is anyone running this setup? I'm just wondering what will happen, since the transfer case "senses" which tires are slipping .......... will the rear get all the power, or the front? It just seems that something will definitely change if the rear is welded...
Whad about a detroit, does anyone run ones of those with a full time 4 wheel drive rig?
 
the T-case dosent sence anything. It is just a differential in the T-case. like in a axle.
 
74757685k5 said:
the T-case dosent sence anything. It is just a differential in the T-case. like in a axle.
Click to expand...
thats what I meant by sensing, the differentiating action......... will that be affected by a rear spool? Just wondering if anyone has run a setup like this. :bow:
 
ttt
is anyone running full time 4 wheel drive with a spool or weld in the rear axle?
 
I'm not running that setup but here's my thoughts.

Leaving the tcase fulltime is almost like leaving the rear open.

You really don't want a spool/weld on the street. You'll hate it.

You don't want full time tcase offroad. I think milemarker still has a parttime kit for tcase.

http://www.milemarker.com/4x2conversion.html
 
I take it, no one is running this setup........ here's my concern, tell me if its valid: When the rear starts barking around curves on pavement, will it shoot all of the power to the front, because it has less traction? or am I minunderstand the concept of the NP203?
 
The 203 is not that sophisicated. It really does not sense anything. All it does is provide a little "give" between the front and the rear on pavement so the tcase doesn't bind and explode.

If you were only closer. I'm pulling a 203 parttime out today. But I think it's already sold. The man said he wanted it.

So, what kind of rear are you welding?
 
crawlink5 said:
So, what kind of rear are you welding?
Click to expand...
14 bolt Full Float :D
I think I'm gonna definitely run the T-case as a full time unit for the next year or two, since my budget is low, and its a play toy only truck ;) I still haven't looked inside the pumkin, I'm really hoping its open, and not a Gov bomb, but we'll see :wink1:
 
89GMCSuburban said:
If it's open, I'd just save the pennies and get a Detroit....then you can still actually turn...lol
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what if its a gov bomb? is it possible to weld a gov lock?
 
I am running a solid Yukon spool with a 203. Haven't really drove it much, but I noticed the decreased turn radius. If it is going to be driven on the road much, go with a Detroit. The 203 does not make a difference in actually driving as far as I can tell. Not sure if this answering your questions - let me know if you have other questions.
 
odoa3 said:
I am running a solid Yukon spool with a 203. Haven't really drove it much, but I noticed the decreased turn radius. If it is going to be driven on the road much, go with a Detroit. The 203 does not make a difference in actually driving as far as I can tell. Not sure if this answering your questions - let me know if you have other questions.
Click to expand...
have you converted yours to part time, or is it still full time?
thanks,
James
 
I have what you're asking about

78Suburban,
I am running this setup in my 78 Jimmy. I have a 203, and a welded 12 bolt rearend. I don't mind at all having the rear welded, as it is not a daily driver. The truck does have a little bit of the "push" they were talking about, and the tires leave stripes and make noise around corners. The thing I hate is that BS full time transfer case, heres what I do with it. I have lockout hubs on the front and I run the T-case in "Loc" with the hubs unlocked when I'm just driving around. I lock the hubs in as necessary when wheeling. When you run your full time in "H" or "L" (not Loc) thats one more open diff to deal with, and I HATE open diffs. When you put it in "Loc" it locks the diff out and locks both driveshafts together. With my setup I just have to use judgement in the given situation for which range the T-case should be in, or if the front hubs should be locked or unlocked. I absolutely can't drive it on pavement with the hubs locked in and the T-case in "Loc." I haven't tried it but I know something will break if I do. Hope that answers your question. Kevin
 
I'm looking to see if anyone has the stock (drive flanges in the front, not hubs) full time setup, with a welded or spooled rear. I'm not worried about the loc positions, but about what will happen in the low and hi positions on the street... will the open diff in the 203 jolt all of the power to the front when I take a curve?
thanks,
James
 
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