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Welding bolts for spare tire flange?

nutt7

nutt7

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I’m very close to finishing my rear bumper. I need to add studs through the wheel flange to bolt my wheel to. I've been doing a little reading and many say it’s a bad idea to weld grade 5 or 8 bolts since they get crystallized and break very easily...do you have any tips for welding bolt heads onto the back of the plate to prevent them from spinning? Like what type of bolts to use, or will it be fine since I’ll only tack them on two sides of the head? I plan to go to the local mom and pop hardware store for supplies.
Thanks!
 
I always use wheel studs for that, if you can. I don't know your exact scenario. drill the hole undersized , press in the wheel stud, tack weld on the back if you want.
 
I pulled some from the boneyard, but they had shanks that were too long and I don’t own the right size drillbit for the knurls. The plate has holes that allow a 1/2” bolt with the smallest of gaps, plus I figured it’d be too costly to grab a new drill bit (I have 1/2 and a 5/8) and to hunt down the exact stud that would work. I figured welding a bolt would be an easy solution.
 
Yeah, I've always welded old wheel studs in a of more-or-less-the-right-diameter, never had an issue. 37x13.50 on a steelie hasn't popped off yet.

-- A
 
Well I spent an hour searching for studs that may press in. My local o o o oreilly has a few that might work. I’ll bring my swing down carrier by and see how they line up, if they don’t work, I may buy them anyway and weld them and see what happens. This 135a mig shouldn’t heat them up tooooo much :surepal:. This is what I’m working with so far:
87CD2979-80C0-41F4-B0D7-7FC0C734FE0B.jpeg 6BA12A56-BB3F-44AA-9558-78A78091CEC5.jpeg
 
They make grade 8 bolts in fine thread so you can use the same lug nuts that are on your wheels. I think I used 9/16" fine thread bolts without an issue and welded the heads on.
 
nutt7 said:
Well I spent an hour searching for studs that may press in. My local o o o oreilly has a few that might work. I’ll bring my swing down carrier by and see how they line up, if they don’t work, I may buy them anyway and weld them and see what happens. This 135a mig shouldn’t heat them up tooooo much :surepal:. This is what I’m working with so far:
View attachment 255885 View attachment 255886
Click to expand...
That looks good, just don't change tire size..LOL
 
Why do they have to be welded? Why not just run a bolt through from the back and hold the wheel on w/ a washer and nut? That's how my old Valley Ind. carrier was designed and it never failed. If you want the bolt to stay on the carrier, just use a little longer bolt. Lock it onto the flange w/ a lock washer and nut. Then you can just bolt the wheel on w/ another washer and bolt.
 
runamok151 said:
Why do they have to be welded? Why not just run a bolt through from the back and hold the wheel on w/ a washer and nut? That's how my old Valley Ind. carrier was designed and it never failed. If you want the bolt to stay on the carrier, just use a little longer bolt. Lock it onto the flange w/ a lock washer and nut. Then you can just bolt the wheel on w/ another washer and bolt.
Click to expand...
It doesn’t have to be, but it would be much easier. I’d prefer to have it like an actual wheel flange
 
Well thanks for convincing me to try studs. Turns out dorman pn 610138 fit very well in the holes provided in the diy4x plate. I started them with a c-clamp, then pulled them through with an oiled nut and washer. Not “proper” for a hub, but for this it worked.
9C2B853F-DE3A-4A60-BE28-9C9ABF1B3017.jpeg 40DC9F2A-4788-4CE5-B135-0FD6C048C798.jpeg
 
Maybe you could have used a hub & studs off a unitized front wheel bearing,if one that has your rim's lug pattern is available.....

I've taken some of those apart ,that I got from a friend's shop's scrap heap removed the bearings and used the hub as a spare tire holder on a trailer tongue..after you get the bearings off your left with a thick collar that you can slide a pipe over and weld it to whatever you want..

I also made some old FWD car front hubs into hubs to use on a garden tractor so I could bolt 5 lug,4.5" bolt circle rear rims on one that formerly only had a 1"keyed axle shaft & bore with a keyway in the rim hole,I used a 1" keyed bore straight coupler pressed into the splined area on the hub and welded it together..the coupler has two set screws to secure it to the axle..much better than the oem crappy snap ring setup..
 
diesel4me said:
Maybe you could have used a hub & studs off a unitized front wheel bearing,if one that has your rim's lug pattern is available.....

I've taken some of those apart ,that I got from a friend's shop's scrap heap removed the bearings and used the hub as a spare tire holder on a trailer tongue..after you get the bearings off your left with a thick collar that you can slide a pipe over and weld it to whatever you want..

I also made some old FWD car front hubs into hubs to use on a garden tractor so I could bolt 5 lug,4.5" bolt circle rear rims on one that formerly only had a 1"keyed axle shaft & bore with a keyway in the rim hole,I used a 1" keyed bore straight coupler pressed into the splined area on the hub and welded it together..the coupler has two set screws to secure it to the axle..much better than the oem crappy snap ring setup..
Click to expand...
I though about using a front dually hub spacer, but this way seemed cheaper and easier to execute. If I had a scrap heap, that may be different. Good idea though!
 
diesel4me said:
Maybe you could have used a hub & studs off a unitized front wheel bearing,if one that has your rim's lug pattern is available.....

I've taken some of those apart ,that I got from a friend's shop's scrap heap removed the bearings and used the hub as a spare tire holder on a trailer tongue..after you get the bearings off your left with a thick collar that you can slide a pipe over and weld it to whatever you want..

I also made some old FWD car front hubs into hubs to use on a garden tractor so I could bolt 5 lug,4.5" bolt circle rear rims on one that formerly only had a 1"keyed axle shaft & bore with a keyway in the rim hole,I used a 1" keyed bore straight coupler pressed into the splined area on the hub and welded it together..the coupler has two set screws to secure it to the axle..much better than the oem crappy snap ring setup..
Click to expand...

nutt7 said:
I though about using a front dually hub spacer, but this way seemed cheaper and easier to execute. If I had a scrap heap, that may be different. Good idea though!
Click to expand...

If you're doing truck things @cybrfire sells mounting plates for $12.60.

01700.JPG


(add your own lugs)

http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17704
 
Just weld a bolt. Couple 1/4 diam welds. Diametrically opposed. Call it a day.

Press in studs will eventually get knocked out. Unless youre that guy that can pick up the spare and drop it on without hitting the studs.

I do recommend using threads that match the trucks wheel studs. Use lug nuts and now you have spares should one get lost.
 
cybrfire said:
Just weld a bolt. Couple 1/4 diam welds. Diametrically opposed. Call it a day.

Press in studs will eventually get knocked out. Unless youre that guy that can pick up the spare and drop it on without hitting the studs.

I do recommend using threads that match the trucks wheel studs. Use lug nuts and now you have spares should one get lost.
Click to expand...


that's exactly what i did with your spare plate...


full
 
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