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Welding broken rocker stud boss on SBC heads?

fortcollinsram

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I recently bought a set of 461 camel hump heads for a 327 I am building for my 1971 SWB C10. I got the heads for $20 so I can't complain. Well, I was tearing the heads apart tonight an noticed that at one point in time, somebody had welding the rocker stud boss. Well I wil be converting to screw in studs so I have to drill and tap the stud holes anyways, but I would like to clean up and re-weld what appears to be a pretty shoddy repair. What is the BEST way to effectively weld cast iron? I probably wouldn't be concerned but this engine will see some very high spring pressures at max valve lift... my idea was to clean up the excess weld and then grind a groove into the crack and then TIG weld it back up with a nice clean bead. I will probably then Heli-coil the hole...

Any other ideas?

Chris
 
By the time you install screw in studs there isn't much of the original boss left anyhow. Can you get a pic maybe so i can see how far down the crack/repair is?
 
4X4HIGH said:
By the time you install screw in studs there isn't much of the original boss left anyhow. Can you get a pic maybe so i can see how far down the crack/repair is?


Yeah I will get a pic when I am at my shop tonight...

On another note, what is the best way to remove the press in rocker studs? I was thinking about just sitting on the boss with a little blue heat and double-nutting the rocker stud to twist it out...

Chris
 
4X4HIGH said:
By the time you install screw in studs there isn't much of the original boss left anyhow. Can you get a pic maybe so i can see how far down the crack/repair is?


Yeah I will get a pic when I am at my shop tonight...

On another note, what is the best way to remove the press in rocker studs? I was thinking about just sitting on the boss with a little blue heat and double-nutting the rocker stud to twist it out...

Chris
 
If the studs are all factory press in studs still just put a stack of washers over the stud and use a grabe 8 nut and start tightening the nut which will draw the stud out.
 
As for welding cast, you need to make sure it is nice and clean. Preheat the area to be welded, I use viniculum rod (stick) for cast. After it is welded use a piece of insulation and wrap the welded area, let it cool on it's own, no burst of cold air or the like. When welding you want the shop closed up until it is wrapped up, leave the doors open you "could" get a gust of wind cool enough to split your weld (though this time of year is highly unlikely).
 
I use Rockmount "Jupiter" rod for cast iron. Comes in stick-arc or TIG form. Spendy.

With that type of rod (nickel based) welding short sections & then peening until it cools to the base metal's average temp has worked the best for me.
 
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