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Welding bungs in tierod, how to?

WJACKSON11X

WJACKSON11X

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My first attempt to weld in bungs was not successful. I gues due to the heat, the rod ends would not thread into the bungs. I cut off the bungs and ordered a new pair. What is the best way to weld the bungs in without shrinking the threads? Thanks guys
 
I have never done it before, but I have welded other similar things with a captive nut or threads. I always coat the threads with some anti spatter and then make sure the male counterpart is threaded in before welding. You might find a sacrificial bolt or old ball joint to thread in while you weld so that you don't trash your new ball joints or heims.

The other part of the process is just being patient. Wait for all the parts to cool naturally and then remove the male piece, nothing will ever move when its all hot.

Again, I haven't done a tie rod before, but it has worked on other similar types of applications. There are probably several other guys on here who have first hand experience and better advice than I do.

Good luck
 
Bnz pretty much nailed it. Anti-splatter or tip dip smeared in threads and thread in a sacrificial bolt or rod . Also make sure the rod I correct for the work.
 
Thanks guys, didn't think about the anti splatter on the threads. I think I have some old ends to thread in as well. We'll see how it goes.
 
If you do have some splatter in the ones you just did you may be able to clear the threads with a thread chaser set or (if you are very careful) a tap set. You don't want to cut new threads just clean them.
 
The old bungs were shot. Problem was I couldn't find anyone with a tap that big for right and left hand threads, so I just bought new ones. I didn't weld the old ones with the rod ends installed. That may be the trick
 
Welding the insert in with the rod end threaded in is a good way to get it permanently stuck in there, the chrome flakes off from the heat and then the metal flakes keep you from threading the end back out.

Unfortunately the correct fix is with a tap.
 
38377k5 said:
Welding the insert in with the rod end threaded in is a good way to get it permanently stuck in there, the chrome flakes off from the heat and then the metal flakes keep you from threading the end back out.

Unfortunately the correct fix is with a tap.
Click to expand...

Yep.


My buddy got both tierods stuck in the inserts that way.
 
I always thread in a bolt in place of a joint. Tre's don't really matter as they are bare steel. Lots of anti seize and let it cool over night.
 
WJACKSON11X said:
So, y'all are saying the only way is to weld the bungs onto the tierod, then use taps to retap the threads? Taps that size are hard to find around here
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No they're saying you can't leave a chromed joint in when you weld as it will seize. Which you don't want to do anyway as it will cook the poly or Teflon.
 
I always thread the Heim into the tube adapter throughly coated with anti seize.
Then weld them up...
The anti sieze melts and stinks but once cool the threads were fine.
 
odin said:
I always thread the Heim into the tube adapter throughly coated with anti seize.
Then weld them up...
The anti sieze melts and stinks but once cool the threads were fine.
Click to expand...

Idk Ive always done this with steering ends and a bolt in place of johnny joints and I did do it with heims with my panhard. I had no issues, loads of anti seize and everything was fine.

PS. I drove by your house randomly while I was working out there the other day. Turns out my buddy bought a TH400 from you about a year ago too. lol.
 
I've never had a problem with just welding them in. Threads coated with anti spatter of course but aside from that, burn 'em in. Let them cool completely and let 'er buck.

Are you sure you're not warping the bung or causing a twist? I suppose it could happen if its welded unevenly. Still never really had a problem.
 
A friend of mine did the first ones, I didn't have a welder then. I now have a welder and will be doing them myself. I guess I'll just take my time and not worry about leaving the rod ends in the bung. Thanks for everyone's input on the matter.

Kert- going to be adding hydro assist ram onto the tierod. Do you have tabs (4) that I can purchase for the mounting? What's best, 1/2" or 3/8" plate? I'll have to check on the hole size.
 
I've done two so far. I put Teflon tape on the threads and threaded the TRE into the insert. Welded it up, making a couple passes using a Lethe setup to slowly turn the rod. Let it cool 10mins and take the TREs off with a glove. The tape comes off like normal.

Went as smooth as could be and no smoke or mess.
 
WJACKSON11X said:
A friend of mine did the first ones, I didn't have a welder then. I now have a welder and will be doing them myself. I guess I'll just take my time and not worry about leaving the rod ends in the bung. Thanks for everyone's input on the matter.

Kert- going to be adding hydro assist ram onto the tierod. Do you have tabs (4) that I can purchase for the mounting? What's best, 1/2" or 3/8" plate? I'll have to check on the hole size.
Click to expand...

We have tabs meant specifically for the ram mounting. 3/8" is plenty of meat.
 
I typically use a sacrificial bolt, but I unthread while its still hot, how I do tie rods and links
 
blazinzuk said:
I typically use a sacrificial bolt, but I unthread while its still hot, how I do tie rods and links
Click to expand...

See I've read to wait til its totally cold so you don't distort threads when unscrewing.

This subject seems to be an everyone just does what works for them topic.
 
Stomis said:
See I've read to wait til its totally cold so you don't distort threads when unscrewing.

This subject seems to be an everyone just does what works for them topic.
Click to expand...


Pretty much, this works for me, but then again I will usually put 2 rosette welds on the back end of the insert too. Then grind the tube down to match the bevel on the insert.

So I have welded them where I had no issues even not using a bolt but it takes more prep work then just slamming them in and going to town as hot as possible with the welder
 
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