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welding up the front....lincoln locker??????

My joints are NOT, and I didn't have time to change it before I wen't out yesterday. (but they have been that way for months) But after reading this, and thinking about it, U are right!! They should be phased! I don't have any steering issues, but it has a lot of return to center "feel" to it and it's never even presure. So I had a buddy get out and watch the joints while I turned a corner. The "pulsing" I feel in the wheel is the joints fighting du to being out of phase :bow: :bow:
Glad I read this thread :D I wouldn't have thought of that on my oun :doah:
 
Can I ask a stupid question?

What does having your u-joints "phased" mean? I'm guessing it's about them facing the same way up...

So, before I go welding my front, I look at the u-joints and how are they supposed to be?
 
I hit mine with a Mig so there wasnt a bunch of slag. I used a Lincoln 155 on the highest setting. I am running 38/14.5 SX's, the trction in awsome, only thing I have broken is a stock front drive shaft. With Hydro assist no problems turning, its just not very tight ;). Eventually when my wife quits making me spend $$ one verything but I am going selectable lockers front and rear. If you do weld it up I suggest putting an inline cooler on, your fluid gets hot and boils over, atleast thats what happened to me (twice).

For those of you running a welded up front, list your tire size and parts youve broken (especially those with 10 bolts and D-44's :D )
 
I've got welded 10bs front and rear on 35'' swampers. On the front I've only had 1 ujoint fail, needle bearings pushed out, but the joint was in there for who knows how long before I got the truck. I am hard on this truck but it is stripped(3600#). I did not phaze the joints before I welded it but the steering isnt that bad. I will try to phaze them if I can the next time I'm in the axle. This is my first "locked" front and the traction is worth the steering effort to me since welded is all I can afford!!

This is the method that has worked for me on 4 rears and one front with zero problems to the welds or carrier. Axles well....
Weld the spiders to the side gears, the side gears to the carrier and the spiders to the carrier. Dont put to much heat to one spot, move around, and stay off the roll pin, even spatter can make it hard to remove later. I also make several passes on the "valley" where the spiders meet the side gears to fill this area in flat.

Hears a pic of my 10b rear if this helps anyone.

welded 10b.jpg
 
I'm welding up my rear this weekend, but am tempted to do my front 10 bolt now too.

If I weld up the front and just run 1 hub locked, it should reduce the strain on the axle shafts, right? Then when I really need the traction I could lock in the 2nd hub - it'd be like a selectable locker right?

Any downside to doing this? I do carry spare axle shafts for the 10 bolt on the trail too, as well as the tools to change it, so I could change the axle in a hour if I did snap one out on the trail. The truck is also a trail-only trailer queen, and almost never sees pavement except a quick jaunt 2 blocks to the gas station or the trail head.

Feedback please :D
 
Has anyone run a welded 44 or 10blt with stock steering. I have A D60 but I will not have all the cash to get it ready for some time. X over and what not, and since I have the 60 I do not want to waste my money on getting the knuckles milled and the arms etc. Id rather just wait till I can do it for my 60. I would like the added traction. I dont rock crawl to much, just trails, and mudd.
 
MTMike said:
I'm welding up my rear this weekend, but am tempted to do my front 10 bolt now too.

If I weld up the front and just run 1 hub locked, it should reduce the strain on the axle shafts, right? Then when I really need the traction I could lock in the 2nd hub - it'd be like a selectable locker right?

I've seen guys on the trail trying the welded front axle and only locking one hub. This is also the same effect as guys with any true locker in the front and breaking a shaft or joint on one side and continuing on the trail without repairs (I've done this myself a few times). It does NOT act like a selectable locker. You have 100% of the power always going to one side on the front in this situation which can lead to some weird handling (obviously pulling to that side). That side with the hub locked will also be spinning if you put all of the weight on it, or all of the traction, versus an open diff in which the side with the least amount of traction will spin. This last comment would also mean that a welded front diff with one hub locked would be harder on shafts and joints because you would 100% of the power going to it all of the time instead of splitting it side to side like a locker.

Overall I did not like running my truck that way simply because of the constant pulling and it just felt weird when going through obstacles. It was also somewhat funny watching the guys with welded diffs try the "one hub unlocked" thing and somebody constantly jumping out to lock the hub in, or getting hung up on something "they didn't think they would need the front locked"......entertaining when it's on the middle of hill or in some mud.

For the steering aspect in regards to X-over, hydro, etc..., I think most people kind of get confused to what is going on. X-over is not going to overcome the effects of a welded front diff, it only helps when the vehicle is flexed out and would cause draglink geometry issues with the stock short draglink. On the trail when you really need steering control you are either going real slow or stopped......a welded front diff isn't going to make much of a difference, especially if you are stopped......you can either turn the tires or you can't. Hydro assist may help you physically turn the tires in one direction, but the true issue with a welded front is that the vehicle simply does not want to turn very sharp because of all of the scrub the tires see....the tires are turned but the whole vehicle just slides straight ahead. I can definitely see why people like hydro assist and think it helps with a welded front diff, but that's because you have to move the steering wheel more, or do 3-point turns, to get around with a welded front diff, but hydro is not overcoming the effects of the welded diff but only making it easier to live with.
 
6.2Blazer said:
I've seen guys on the trail trying the welded front axle and only locking one hub. This is also the same effect as guys with any true locker in the front and breaking a shaft or joint on one side and continuing on the trail without repairs (I've done this myself a few times). It does NOT act like a selectable locker. You have 100% of the power always going to one side on the front in this situation which can lead to some weird handling (obviously pulling to that side). That side with the hub locked will also be spinning if you put all of the weight on it, or all of the traction, versus an open diff in which the side with the least amount of traction will spin. This last comment would also mean that a welded front diff with one hub locked would be harder on shafts and joints because you would 100% of the power going to it all of the time instead of splitting it side to side like a locker.

Overall I did not like running my truck that way simply because of the constant pulling and it just felt weird when going through obstacles. It was also somewhat funny watching the guys with welded diffs try the "one hub unlocked" thing and somebody constantly jumping out to lock the hub in, or getting hung up on something "they didn't think they would need the front locked"......entertaining when it's on the middle of hill or in some mud.

For the steering aspect in regards to X-over, hydro, etc..., I think most people kind of get confused to what is going on. X-over is not going to overcome the effects of a welded front diff, it only helps when the vehicle is flexed out and would cause draglink geometry issues with the stock short draglink. On the trail when you really need steering control you are either going real slow or stopped......a welded front diff isn't going to make much of a difference, especially if you are stopped......you can either turn the tires or you can't. Hydro assist may help you physically turn the tires in one direction, but the true issue with a welded front is that the vehicle simply does not want to turn very sharp because of all of the scrub the tires see....the tires are turned but the whole vehicle just slides straight ahead. I can definitely see why people like hydro assist and think it helps with a welded front diff, but that's because you have to move the steering wheel more, or do 3-point turns, to get around with a welded front diff, but hydro is not overcoming the effects of the welded diff but only making it easier to live with.


Well said.
 
For those of you running a welded up front, list your tire size and parts youve broken (especially those with 10 bolts and D-44's :D )
I want to hear this also, I will be trading my 35's for 38.5's
 
The steering on my 85' Suburban-buggy is all stock. Its really not all that bad, it pulses when I turn sharp and the front tires push through some times but nothing that cant be overcome with 3 point turns.

I welded A.R's 44 front on his 70 chev. and his only fatality so far was a crappy napa u-joint. He now has 760x's on bolth sides!;) His truck has 35's, a good 350, 4 speed and he is fairly hard on it. He also has stock steering and does fine.

Running one hub unlocked actually seems to offer less traction than an open diff because all the power goes to one tire all the time. I run bolth hubs locked most of the time because I'd rather do a 3 point than jump in and out locking and unlocking hubs.
 
Allright then, I guess I'll just do it for the time being till I can get my 60 set up.
 
jk3078 said:
Running one hub unlocked actually seems to offer less traction than an open diff because all the power goes to one tire all the time.

I definitely agree on this point. Meant to say that during my previous long rant but forgot.
 
What does it mean "the u-joints are phased"?

Which is the proper way to have the u-joints facing when welding/locking the front so that steering problems are reduced?
 
From what I understand as long as the are in the exact same place in the rotation than they are "phazed". I am deff. going to do this on the next diff I weld and I will post up on how much of a difference it makes.
 
I have several welded diffs and have always said go for it...

Toyota welded front and rear.

K5 welded front

Dodge Dakota Welded Rear.........Just went BOOM today. :doah:

welded diffs are tons of fun till they grenade. Hopefully there are enough big pieces for me to weld back together ;)
 
i like your name captain insano lol what year dakota all i gotta say is welders are dangerous lol

you never know what will wind up being welded aty the end of the day
 
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