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well... the sub is running again but i got a problem

muddysub

muddysub

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well yesterday, after almost 2yrs, the suburban fired up... i rebuilt the TBI, replaced the injectors, replaced the fuel pump and filters... i got oil pressure immediately, and everything loks good. but it idles rough, kinda lopes, and once you put it in gear it falls on its face. it barely moves under its own power, and the RPMs lope really bad, sounds like its gonna stall about every 5-10 seconds. i plan on putting a cap, rotor, wires and plugs in it son but i dont think its an ignition problem... the IAC hose broke and i put it back together with electrical tape, so that might be leaking... bgut any other ideas as to why its idling like hell?
 
Make sure nothing made a nest in your exhaust. Even if it revs up in neutral or park, it may still be partially clogged. Dodge trucks do this all the time when the cat goes bad and gets partially plugged.
By the way, what ended up fixing the fuel problem that you had? Was it the pump?
 
yeah it was the pump... hmm ill drop the cat off of it and try it out. the cat is the only thing left in the exhaust system, all the rest fell off years ago...
 
yeah it was the pump... hmm ill drop the cat off of it and try it out. the cat is the only thing left in the exhaust system, all the rest fell off years ago...
 
you're kidding me right? its been like 4 or 5 days and ive only got one reply besides my own? come on i know someone on here can help me with this.
 
Still sounds like it might be fuel pressure problem. What is the line pressure? Could also be IAC, or some sensor. If the fuel pressure checks out (always the first thing to check) then hook up WinALDL or a hand scanner.
 
Have you checked for codes? If the "Check Engine" light is not on, check to be sure the bulb is good. When you turn the key to "On", the "Check Engine" light should come on and then go off after a few seconds.

Did disconnecting the cat help at all?

When you rebuilt the TBI, did you replace the IAC?

I would definitely get it hooked up to WinALDL and see what's going on. WinALDL will show you mixture, IAC counts, TPS reading, detonation (if any), etc ....

Thomas.
 
no the light is not on and the bulb is good... i didint replace the IAC. the exhaust is not the problem, i dont have a scanner but ill borrow one from a guy at work on monday.

if it was a pressure problem wouldnt it effect it at higher RPMs? because the only problem is at idle...
 
Only problem is at idle? So when you start driving, it seems to run fine? If so, maybe one of your injectors is leaking. Start it up and watch the spray pattern from the injectors. If one of them is dripping, that's your problem.

Thomas.
 
After that long of a sit, you need to do a full fluid change (coolant, tranny fluid, engine oil, and GAS!!! no way is gas that old going to be good at this point!) Also, pull a spark plug or two to check condition. This is a good time to check spark plug wire insulation for cracks.

I guarantee that if your gasoline is 2 years old, REPLACING it (not adding fresh stuff to it) would get rid of 90% of your issues. I know you said you replaced filters too...I'm assuming you're including fuel filter in this, if not...it needs replacing as I'm sure that's gummed up with old gas.

After you do these things, start up your 'burb and let it sit and run for a while (10 minutes or more). Give the engine time to "fix itself." If it's still having issues after that, it's time to replace sensors.

Good luck...let us know how things go!

P.S. Did I mention your old gas needs to be REPLACED?!?!:grin:
 
it is new gas, when i dropped the tank i got rid of the old gas and put 10gal of new stuff in it.
and u cant start driving with it, as soon as u put a load on it ti falls on its face.
 
well i got it out on the road today!!!!! i let it warm up at about 1000-1200 RPMs for like 10 min and it ran ok, still felt cold, didnt like sudden throttle applications but it idled smoothly after a few min... im still gonna flush EVERY fluid on it and give it a new cap, set of wires and plugs and a new rotor...
 
If your burb has an EGR valve, that might be bad. My '86 C10 would idle and run fine, until you put it in gear, then it would die. When I disconnected the vacuum line to the EGR valve, it started running and driving perfect again. Most people diconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR and plug it. That fixed my problem, but I actually replaced the thing, for reasons I'm still trying to figure out.
 
nope i dont have an EGR.... every time i start it and run it it gets better... its just not used to running yet, its pissed cuz i woke it up. lol. it idles fine now.
 
stallion85 said:
Scott, I hope all is running good in May. We need to get together again and do some Rock Crawlin:grin:
Click to expand...
by may? no problem ill have my 4.56s done by then, we'll go out and see how she likes the rocks hehehee.
 
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