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What 10b crossover kits are out there?

dremu

dremu

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I know about the ORD kit, and have my flat-top D44 knuckles waiting =))

There's also the ORU kit, which requires insane lift 'cuz the draglink is straight. :screwy:

Any others? I'm just contemplating options for this winter's projects :haha:

-- A
 
dremu said:
Cool -- thanks for the tip.


I assume that since I'm using Dana 44 knuckles, a 10-bolt is for this purpose the same as a D44?

-- A
Click to expand...

Correct, the only difference between a 10b and D44 crossover kit (besides having to use D44 flat tops) is the axle name. One kit fits both axles.:D
 
I am running Sky Manufacturing's D44 tall steering arm. It is a quality piece of hardware. I would not hesitate to run there stuff again.

Harley
 
Hossbaby50 said:
I am running Sky Manufacturing's D44 tall steering arm. It is a quality piece of hardware. I would not hesitate to run there stuff again.

Harley
Click to expand...

I agree, I had the sky man. Tall arm and that thing was beef. It was a good price for the arm too. I would be running it but i recently traded it with some d44 flatops for an almost complete d60. I would recomend checking out sky's stuff. Great service too.

Also WFO i think has some dana 44 stuff. Might wanna check them out too.
 
[hijack]

I plan to use Sky's tall arm for my D44 crossover also. I remember someone having a problem with sheared studs, which I think turned out to be a (lack of) torque issue. Are these arms safe for street use?

[/hijack]





:confused:
 
divorced said:
[hijack]

I plan to use Sky's tall arm for my D44 crossover also. I remember someone having a problem with sheared studs, which I think turned out to be a (lack of) torque issue. Are these arms safe for street use?

[/hijack]







:confused:
Click to expand...

Yes it was a problem but only became heavily evident when using a spacer. The new ones are better and safe for street use. Harley (Hossbaby50) had a massive problem with the studs, bolts, grade 5 & 8 also F911 (aerospace equivilent to a "grade 9" if there was one). Couldn't keep them from shearing/streatchin' to save our tail. He got the newer arm that is a full billet piece and no more problems. I also know of 2 other rigs with the same problem. I think we changed 15+ steering arm studs/bolts out last year on the trail due to this.

It was a leverage issue that I found after calculating the shear, and torque load on the stud. The spacer allowed more torsional movement due to a two series interface (spacer on knuckle & arm on spacer). The small amount of movement that will always be there obviously doubled due to the number of interfaces. This casued the fastener to reach its fatigue point faster and was constantly seeing a greater amount of torsion force against its natural axis (the stud was twisting/bending against the shank, not along it).

Basic idea -> bend: weaken, bend: weaken, bend: weaken, bend: break.


(Sorry for the long explanation, back in school means back to more engineering)
 
az-k5 said:
(Sorry for the long explanation, back in school means back to more engineering)
Click to expand...

That is a good explanation, and thanks for the info.





;)
 
I got everything from WFO concepts because, depending on availability, he can sell flat-top knuckles milled, drilled, tapped & ready to go.

Mike
 
divorced said:
[hijack]

I plan to use Sky's tall arm for my D44 crossover also. I remember someone having a problem with sheared studs, which I think turned out to be a (lack of) torque issue. Are these arms safe for street use?

[/hijack]





:confused:
Click to expand...

What Matt said. The spacer was my main problem with breaking studs. I broke the steering studs from Sky on my 2nd run out. Then I replaced them with Grade 9 F911 bolts. I ran those for awhile on some hard runs. I never broke them but I did end up stretching the bolts and the steering arm got a little loose.

I sold my standard height steering arm to a friend of mine and I bought Sky's new tall arm. I run there new tall arm with 2.75" long Grade 9 bolts. I have had no problems since I switched over. The bolts are still tight and have not stretched or broken.

People say bolts are not the correct way to do it but they have been a better solution to my problem. The key to keeping the steering arm in place is the clean mating surfaces (no oil or paint), quality fasteners, and HEAVY torque on the bolts or studs.

My bolt are torqued to 220lb-ft. currently.

Harley
 
I had all the sky stuff (still have the draglink/pitman arm) but I have to say the tall arm was NICE.
With out a doubt go with Sky. You wont find stuff cheaper with that good of quality anywhere.
 
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