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What air pressure should I run (now with picts)

my ground hawgs say max 30psi.. but i dont feel like bouncing all over the place and wearing the dead centers out...

so i have 20psi in them now as i had to have the valve stems replaced....

but definitely look at the tires and make sure ALL the tread is on the ground or you will wear the centers out...
 
If you use the 10% method there are a couple things to remember, the tires must be cold when you start. Sitting outside on a hot day with the sun beating on them is not cold. Then make sure you drive far enough to get them up to temp, if I remember right most say about an hour for this particular method. Best way to do it is to plan your route so you can stop right then and there and measure pressure.

It does take a couple days but this is the best way to do it. I got 45k out of a set of 38" radial swampers doing this and keeping them well balanced and rotating often.

Also its best to buy a nice tire gauge like one from longacre to do this, the more accurate the better
 
That all sounds like a lot of PSI. I have 36 x 14" TSL radials, and I have done the pattern testing back in 03 when I bought them new, and for the best pattern in my truck I run 18 psi in the back and 24 in the front. Tires have probably 15k miles on them and they are wearing perfectly even and look darn near new yet. (no rocks around here, just sand, snow, dirt and mud)
 
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EIB8400 said:
Munepit, how do they handle on the highway at that low of a pressure? I guess it will be easier for me to play around with different psi once I get a damn air compressor at my house. I guess I could get one of the kids out there with a bike pump??
Click to expand...

The Toyos work great on the highway. I have had them at 12psi on the highway also. Little sloppy though. I didn't want to air up aster a night run. That's the only reason.

The TSLs have not been on the highway yet. Lastnite I was messing around and took the valve core out of the 2 rear TSLs on the burb. 0psi. You couldn't even tell it was at 0psi. Didn't sag at all. I took them off, layed it down, steped on the sidewall and the bead broke off the wheel. I am going to run the Toyos until I put in some plastic BBs to help balance them.
 
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You can also choose a pressure based on weight, which is a good sanity check to make sure you're in the right ballpark. Your tire is marked with the max pressure and max load, which go together. The tire needs 0 psi to support 0 lbs. You interpolate between these two points with your actual weight. If you don't know the actual F/R weight distribution, you can use the method above to give you your total air and then trade it between front and rear until the patterns are the same.

In general, the bigger the tire, the less air required for the same load.
 
Thanks guys.. but, how do you balance your tires? Do you use airsoft (or something similar) or just have a shop balance them?
 
Alot of people will swear by airsoft BBs or balancing beads. I suspect none of them have had a tire with lateral imbalance where one side is heavier than the other, usually in different locations as well. I went through alot of aggravation recently trying to figure out a tire balance issue and as much weight I kept adding/removing with BBs it just would not balance. I ended up removing all the BBs in all the tires and balanced them up with normal lead weights on good old steel wheels and now they run nice and smooth.

My suggestion, balance them up via the conventional wheel weight method first. Then, if you need to, add airsoft BBs to finish it off. Only if you need to.
 
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