WHAT AM I DOING WRONG??? double flares!!

[darkshadow]

my line snaped of from my master cly when winter wheeling, so i ran out and got a chepo double flaring tool that was wrong!
its for copper and alum pipe.

so i just rented a flareing tool, and when i tryed to do it t wont work for me its worse then the el-cheapo one.

the first flare die just falls right in (and yes its the right size!) then the tapered seconed flare, just pushes the walls out and cracks the line in one spot.

what am i doing wrong. i would reather fix it for now then order a 100 or 200 doller set of lines from LMC. and i cant find anything local...

 

[driney]

If the line broke from vibration it has probably work hardened and might need to be annealed.

 

[newyorkin]

I just finished replacing all the brake lines in my pickup, but there were a couple I had to re-use and double flare. On those lines, I had to cut waaaaay down the line to get to a decent usable point, which meant I had to extend the line coming up to it either with a union or complete longer line.

I'd say replace the whole line with a pre-fabbed line, custom bent by you, and only double flare if the fitting is a non-standard size (like the couple I had to re-use entering the anti-lock doohickey).

Go to your local parts store and pick up a union and several different lengths of the prefabbed brake lines, use what you need and return what you don't use. You'll probably save yourself a lot of headaches. You can bend it by hand, which I did often, or use a cheap hand bender, which I also used a few times to make it a little prettier.

 

[darkshadow]

the line (rear) broke because it was slightly croded behind the nut, but my body mouns are bad up front and the trail was hard in the massive cold wave i when wheeling in, so the bounce must have torn the line out.

once i saw it i got the tool, and cut the front off figgering i would do it too, but did so befor i found that the tool wouldent work.


the line is still solid it should work to re flare i just cant figger it out..

 

[CyberSniper]

The first step creates a bubble at the end of the line. The second step pushes the end of the flare tube inside itself (collapses the bubble).

I have no idea what you're trying to do... but reading the directions would be a good start.

CarQuest sells a decent flaring tool. Costs around $60. It's worth the money. It's not nearly as blingin' as a $200 setup but it'll get the job done without the headache of the cheap ones you get at Autozone and Advance Auto.

 

[darkshadow]

yeah the first step isent working its the right size, cant get that wrong 3/16th staped right on it aaaahhhhhh


gotta go out of town this week this is never going to get done

 

[CyberSniper]

take some pictures of the tools

is the tube pushing out of the piece you're supposed to use to clamp it?

 

[ntsqd]

The frist step almost all directions leave out is to completely deburr both the ID and the OD of the tube. It also needs to be perfectly square.

If the button for the first operation has a step in it's OD, that is the gauge for how far out of the clamp the tubing should stick. Put it dimpled side down on the clamp and stick the tube out to the corner of the step. Then try forming the bubble.

If the bubble forms slightly off center you'll know the end wasn't perfectly square. Sometime they're salvagable, sometimes not.