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What am I doing wrong?

Plumber'sCrack

Plumber'sCrack

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 6, 2021
Posts
180
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299
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Energy bushings, core support from Rockauto. Not even close to fitting. While I freely admit to being an idiot on occasion, I can't see the problem on this one and can handle abuse. So call me names then point me in the right direction please

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Bolt is loose on mine but here’s how the energy suspension bushings fit on mine.
FF3F866E-27CA-4D3F-B9A0-06B2A014A7A4.jpeg
What do your body bushings and mounts look like?
 
nvrenuf said:
That’s the difference between 73-80 and 81+ hardware. 81+ uses a cup on the top of the top side bushing so you can’t see all of it on the others.
Click to expand...
Since i have no clue, should the cup washer be used with the poly mounts?
That wouldn't lower the core support enough to fix the problem though.

@Plumber'sCrack I assume that everything was fine with the old parts?

I would assume no frame damage kicking the front up.

Can you shim the cab mounts up a little to help? Would an 1/8" up at the front cab mount do enough?
 
What’s the part number on the core support, not the invoice hopefully a sticker on the support itself.
As mentioned, loosen the fender by the hood hinge and door so it’s free to move. A little movement there will make a huge difference way out at the support. Set the fender on the core support and add/remove shims by the hood hinge. See if the door gaps are acceptable at that point.

And BTW: If you lost a 1/2” washer, I know where you can find it. :rotfl:
 
@Plumber'sCrack have you installed the rest of the body bushings yet? I’m wondering if those are sagging which could cause the fender to be lower.
 
nvrenuf said:
@Plumber'sCrack have you installed the rest of the body bushings yet? I’m wondering if those are sagging which could cause the fender to be lower.
Click to expand...
I have not messed with any other bushings yet. I did put frame stands under the front corners to get the fenders sitting right. By right, I mean the gap between fender and door was even.

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rampage said:
What’s the part number on the core support, not the invoice hopefully a sticker on the support itself.
As mentioned, loosen the fender by the hood hinge and door so it’s free to move. A little movement there will make a huge difference way out at the support. Set the fender on the core support and add/remove shims by the hood hinge. See if the door gaps are acceptable at that point.

And BTW: If you lost a 1/2” washer, I know where you can find i
Click to expand...
No idea on part number, shit I'm not even positive where I bought it from. It's been in the garage rafters for 5-6 years waiting on it's time to shine.
 
centexk5 said:
Bolt is loose on mine but here’s how the energy suspension bushings fit on mine.
View attachment 422837
What do your body bushings and mounts look like?
Click to expand...
Mine aren't tight yet either. The rest of the bushings don't look awful, they still APPEAR solidlol. Only reason I'm replacing these front ones is because of the new core support, but I got the whole kit and plan to do the rest after the 4 links swap is done.
 
Chickntrk said:
Learn something everyday! Maybe he got the wrong core support?
Click to expand...
This is entirely possible. I've had this thing 20 years and I'm pretty sure this is the third front clip I've swapped onto it. Thing is, I have the old one on the ground right next to it, they measured out damn near identical.
 
6872xtc said:
Since i have no clue, should the cup washer be used with the poly mounts?
That wouldn't lower the core support enough to fix the problem though.

@Plumber'sCrack I assume that everything was fine with the old parts?

I would assume no frame damage kicking the front up.

Can you shim the cab mounts up a little to help? Would an 1/8" up at the front cab mount do enough?
Click to expand...
Yes everything was fine before. Long story short, the bottom of my old one was rusted out. I was pulling the engine for a freshen up, oil pan wouldn't clear, I knew I had a new one just waiting so I cut the top middle chunk out of core support.
Not only no frame damage, it has a tubular subframe front to back that took ALL the frame flex away.

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