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What am I missing ?

brans87

brans87

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Plan on doing a 4 inch lift in next month or 2 trying to make sure I have every thing. Would you mind checking list and adding recomm anything might over looked?

Haves : DIY4X rear shackles with 4.5 flip with all need parts to install.
4 inch EZ rides
ORD steering brace
ORD brake lines
ORD greaseable bolts and bushings installed in rear leaf springs
ORD F250 shock mounts
Need :
shocks - bilstein 5125 ORD
front u bolts 10 bolt - unsure who to buy from
dropped pitman arm - not sure who posted also in for sale section
front greaseable bolts for leaf springs

Know I am missing something here....
 
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quick suggestion since you are hoping to get max travel
buy the 12" lift brake lines from ORD, anything shorter is just too short. You will have to train the longer ones to stay out of the way.
Buy the HD springs, if you don't like, pull small leave from bottom (BAM) now they are EZ's
Weld in steering brace, do it
Maybe zero rates for the rear to move the axle back 1.5", it's better and you'll need a new driveshaft anyway.
 
trying to avoid the new drive shaft as it cost $$$$
already have the springs in the garage
Have the bolt in steering brace in place already but can weld it.
 
Off-road design sells a drop pitman arm, greasable bolts and u bolts. Have you thought about doing the rear shackle flip? Also have you checke into the ORD lift kits, they include everything needed.
 
I know ORD sells everything but sometimes there is a budget on something. If I can buy a used good drop pitman arm for $50 vs $120 then there is $ saved.
 
used pitman arms for lift kits tend to bring real good resale price .

and if blazer plan on shimming the rear or cut/weld perches for pinion angle.
 
yep
pinion angle after a flip kit is perfect with a CV shaft
but horrendous to shim if using single joint driveshaft
 
just how hard is it to shim the rear with a single drive shaft? I have never had the joy of doing this before.

Quite sure a CV shaft is not CHEAP!
 
http://diy4x.com/product.php?productid=17720&cat=250&page=1

I think I had 8 degree shims in the rear of mine at one point. But you cant just guess, have to get the lift installed (front and rear), measure angles, and order from there. Add rear u bolts too. Thats all *IF* your rear driveshaft can be made to work. Sometimes it can, sometimes it cant. 4" lifts are hard to say. If you end up modifying the shaft at all: probably easier to replace it with a CV, as you are probably going to be at the limits of a single u joint style shaft.

Since you have a welder: costs roughly the same to shim vs. to cut the existing perches off and put new ones on. Allows you fix the angles to be perfect, but more time and pain to install than a shim kit. And it still costs a new set of u bolts.
 
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Also, you keep the bolt in brace the same. I was referring to the weld in plate that goes on the frame. Up to you.

If the shaft is too short or the joint doesnt look happy, dont change to fancy joints and dont pay to cut and retube the shaft, just drop the money on a CV. You will end up shortening the tube (easier than lengthening) and going CV.
 
I'm contemplating basically the same lift on my Suburban, so I'm taking notes. I guess things have come full circle, @brans87. :haha:

And, yes, I'm also hoping to avoid redoing driveshafts (though I'm starting with a Suburban and my 14bff swap pushed the pinion an inch forward, so I don't think the rear will be a problem in my case). If need be I may adjust the lift size to avoid causing problems.
 
@campfire you'll definitely want the easy inch block to push the axle back with that 14ff swap.

Longer pinion + axle moving forward with a shackle flip = driveshaft will be too long.
 
Justin V said:
@campfire you'll definitely want the easy inch block to push the axle back with that 14ff swap.

Longer pinion + axle moving forward with a shackle flip = driveshaft will be too long.
Click to expand...

Will I? I'm also increasing the vertical distance, I figured it would be a wash. FWIW, I have been running the stock height with the 14bff without issue. But that's seeing very little axle travel.

Suffice it to say that I'll be taking a whole lot of measurements in the coming months. :haha:
 
If you havent bought a flip kit, seriously consider a spring only lift in the rear. It will help with driveline angles, keep axle more centered in wheel opening, and ride better on the street.
 
That also apply for 14 bolt full float in a K5? I forgot to mention I had that installed already with no problems.
 
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