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What are the steps to a half decent home paint job?

So if you rattle can it and then rattle can clear coat it , can you buff and wax it?
I mena can you wax a rattle can clear coat?
 
I'm not the expert here, but if you rattle can it, are you really looking for a paint job worth buffing and waxing? I think not. :p:
 
pretty much any paint or clear can be wetsanded and buffed... the problem lies in usually not having enough material on to sand and buff properly...
 
so in other words, not enough clear coat so you end up rubbing it all off? :confused:
 
not buffing it all off, but burning thru enough areas to make it look like cr*p...

i would never consider clearing a rattlecan job.. (well, i'm a professional painter with 9 or so guns, so i'd never rattlecan anyway.. even if i was doing a semi gloss job..) you'd be better off loading up on a solid colored rattlecan paint and giving that a light wetsand and buff...
 
dunno if this was mentioned in this thread (and this is also digging this thread up), but something I always do when painting:

grounding!

run a ground strap from vehicle to ground
ground paint gun
and vehicle to paint gun (this one is really optional, but it really ensures both vehicle and paint gun have no potential between them)

eliminates any chance for static charges to build up and 'collect' small bits of dust floating in the air... we use the same technique in the air force when refueling aircraft to prevent sparks from exploding us all :)
 
this might sound a little mean but I can see little dents and dings on your truck in the picture. I have done quite of few of these cheap paint jobs and rarely is the body work worth it Get all your rust out and spray away
 
blazinzuk said:
this might sound a little mean but I can see little dents and dings on your truck in the picture. I have done quite of few of these cheap paint jobs and rarely is the body work worth it Get all your rust out and spray away


OH NO!!!!! I Have DENTS???? BUT IT'S ALMOST NEW!!!

hehe, just messing around... thanks for the post
 
Dents add character,,just do what i do,,,LABEL THEM !! :p:

as in, what made the dent... gets alot of comments and smiles at stop lights when people look over and start reading what trails did what to the body.
 
4xcrazy said:
Dents add character,,just do what i do,,,LABEL THEM !! :p:

as in, what made the dent... gets alot of comments and smiles at stop lights when people look over and start reading what trails did what to the body.

Thats a good one.
LOL
 
If you're going to do a decent job, primer selection is one of the most important steps. Make sure it's a 2 part primer. You can get these in a rattle can, but I use one of PPG's high end primers. It costs $200 a gallon with the catalyst (hardener) which is my price, and my buddy is the sales rep. This stuff goes on like paste. I also do a guide coat, especially if you do alot of bodywork. It gets rid of the scratch marks the sandpaper puts in the plastic. The primer's a bitch to wet sand. You have to water the sh@t out of the 600 paper. I also use 3M's P600 wet/dry sand paper. It's a bit more abrasive than standard 600, so the primer doesn't clog the paper as much. When you're done doing a side, it will look like Noah parked his arc next to your truck. You'll know you're done when the primer has almost a sheen to it. Selecting paint and clear is another story. I use PPG, but talk to a paint supply shop and see what they recommend. Stay away from European or really high end base and clear coat products. They may be of excellent quality, but only show their quality when the automobile is shot in a temperature controlled paint booth which bakes the paint on. If you had access to that, you wouldn't be asking us for advice. Good luck!! Remember, patience is a virtue, and you're sure as hell going to need plenty of patience to do a decent job!!
 
I painted my truck. First time job. Some of the guys on the site saw it over the weekend. They said "not bad!" and that I had a "pretty truck." I purchased the paint gun from harbor freight. I used a two stage paint versus a clear coat. I did this because it was recomended due to the fact that I wheel and will scratch it up anyway. A two stage paint basically has the clear mixed in. I did all the body and primer in my friends garage. I painted all the door jambs in my garage then rented a paint booth for the full job. You can find a booth for around $75+ for 4hrs. I found one for that price for as long as i needed. Masking off everything is what takes time.
overall, it's not perfect but it looks good. I chose not to wet sand it only because It's a not that easy to get it right and because again, I wheel enough to where it just didn't make good sense. It's been four months now and I allready have a few dings and plenty of scratches from trees and such.

I can find the number of the paint booth it's on 22ave and south of Buckeye.
I went to Young Sales paint supply, on 19th ave b/t Camelback and I.S. They were very helpful in answering my questions. They gave me the # for the paint booth.
 

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