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what are you running for alternators?

wazzabie

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I just have the stock delco 10SI. Maybe it is time to upgrade now that I'm getting lights and a winch.
 
i got 88-95 serp belt setup. was running stock 105 amp cs130 alt. but my needs i went cs144 case upgrade and 200 amp custom built unit bolt in job. no more low volt problems now. :D

oh ya its on a plow truck with full cop car style light bar / plow lights / extra flood lights and runs fuel injection and heater and wipers . so ya it drinks a lot of amps. thank god for live hydro plow tho and not electric.
 
200 amp custom wound. 80 amps at idle. Never had issues even running all of the lights for hours at idle.
 
I did a Cs130 from a 90s cavalier/ sunfire (junk yard car) and put a v belt pully on it and ran it in my blazer, and now its in wifes car.

Basically mounts same as the 10si. And same alt as 88-95 chevys with different front housing. Cheap easy upgrade.
 
i run one of the summit 100 amp alternators.it runs 75- 10 amp continuous at idle,so never have had charging issues yet.
 
I just installed a 140amp Powermaster in mine. Might need a bigger one, don't know yet. I have a 12k winch bunch of lights big power inverter big stereo painless dual batteries.
 
One thing to consider, you don't get those amps for free..

While it might hurt your fuel economy some, not that fuel economy is going to be a top concern with these setups, what it is going to do is put a much larger than designed load on the belt system.

"V" belts are fairly forgiving. If you overload one enough, it will slip. A serpentine belt is different. It may slip, or it may break, or drag the tensioner down.

On trucks like my Ford, where the water pump and fan run off the back of the belt, too heavy a load elsewhere could cause slack at other parts of the circuit and cause overheating that would be a real bear to figure out.

Plus, the amount of total power available to a device is limited by the amount of wrap the belt has around it.
Look at a serpentine setup, and you will see that some pulleys have the belt just running across it with a small amount of wrap, and others have it going most of the way around.
Worst case, you might have to do some rerouting of the belt and maybe change the length.

Unlike a "V" belt, its not an easy matter to add a second belt with a double pulley. Although I have seen where a "V" belt was added to a serpentine setup to drive a new device such as a hydraulic pump.
 
I just swapped the 55amp 10SI alt from my 1980 K-20 with a 12SI 95amp from a 89 K-5 and it made a world of difference! My lights are white, my old tired windows that would barely make it up on their own zipped up and down like brand new. Maybe my old alt was going bad? battery never died but it would only measure 13.2 volts. Ran that way for years and even ran a 12,000lb winch many times without skipping a beat. Now it measures at 14.1 with new alt.

Super easy swap too, just swapped the serp and v belt pulleys with an impact gun and leather glove. Took all of 20 minutes to swap them.
 
For my blazer, I found a stock aplication for a Caddy that used a 12SI and was rated at 125A and used Vbelt, can;t remember the aplication anymore but it was stock straight bolt in and cost me $125 lifetime warranty.
Works fine doesn't overload my belt and my engine doesn't feel it.
I want something bigger in my sub, I have a CS130 105A now, I might go for the CS144.:dunno:
 
I did a Cs130 from a 90s cavalier/ sunfire (junk yard car) and put a v belt pully on it and ran it in my blazer, and now its in wifes car.

Basically mounts same as the 10si. And same alt as 88-95 chevys with different front housing. Cheap easy upgrade.


I'm going junk yard hoping Friday....would one of these bolt up and have the same plug as my 79 K20? Sorry if its a dumb question.
 
I'm going junk yard hoping Friday....would one of these bolt up and have the same plug as my 79 K20? Sorry if its a dumb question.

Just cut the wiring off the car you get it from. Make sure you get the one with the same style mount as you. The front housing needs to have both mounts exactly opposite from one another. 12 o clock, and 6 o clock.
 
Just cut the wiring off the car you get it from. Make sure you get the one with the same style mount as you. The front housing needs to have both mounts exactly opposite from one another. 12 o clock, and 6 o clock.

Thanks, I'll add that to my list. :waytogo::D
 
Duralast from autozone. I dont have any lights or winch or anythin that requires alot of power. Cheap, and if it dies theres autozones everywhere around here and they will give ya a free one.
 
AD244 from mid 2000's GM trucks and other various vehicles.
If you get a real new or rebuilt AC Delco unit without the cheap china internals, it runs 145amps conservatively (many are benched at 160-170) and runs 80-90 at idle which is a huge advantage.
IMG_0713.JPG
 
Duralast from autozone. I dont have any lights or winch or anythin that requires alot of power. Cheap, and if it dies theres autozones everywhere around here and they will give ya a free one.


That's what I'm running currently, but its only 63amp and my Sony head unit and 4 speakers can already make my volt gauge dance.:haha:

I want to add an electic fan also:rolleyes:
 
That's what I'm running currently, but its only 63amp and my Sony head unit and 4 speakers can already make my volt gauge dance.:haha:

I want to add an electic fan also:rolleyes:

My volt gauge is broken, so.... I guess I can put all kinds of fancy electrical stuff on right!!!!:D
I think mines 70something amps

and "73K5blazer" dear god of all that is sexy in an engine bay!!!!:eek1::thumb:
 
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