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What crossover to run?

I would just go with simple crossover. Its gonna be cheaper, it will eliminate the possible interferance problems, and it will make mounting hydro assist easier if and when you go that route. You could either sleve your tie rod, or build a better one. I know plenty of people who wheel HARD with a standard tie rod in front of the axle, who never have any problems. It just has to be beefy. Just my $.04
 
ORD arms are 100% built right here, about 75 feet from where I sit. Other shops do sell them but they are typically marketed as our arms.

I've talked with one customer that had a problem with a hole wallowing out on one side of a pair of high steer arms. This is Fred Pierce. I also have some looseness in my steering arms but I don't know of anyone else with problems. Typically a wallowing problem is due to the end coming loose a little and the taper getting egged. It doesn't surprise me that this happened on my truck, that was a maintenance point that I ignored till it was too late. I am still running on the arms, I just keep them sucked down now and know that repair time is coming up.

The repair for a wallowed out tapered hole is to weld it up and re-drill and taper it. I have talked to Fred about options for fixing it, mostly revolving around getting the arm back here and working it in with a batch of our arms to repair. One other option that could work is using a repair sleeve, which I just found a good source for. It'a basically a hardened split tapered sleeve that would be put in a through hole. We haven't messed with this one yet so it may or may not be a good fix. It would at least be easier for a guy to do himself rather than sending the arm back to us for repair. I can understand fred not wanting to part with his steering right now since I guess AZ wheeling is just getting going.

The material is not a problem, my arms (our very first) were built from a mild steel that's not particularly hard or strong compared to what we use now. All of our newer stuff is a cold rolled material that's about twice the yield strength of the previous material so the holes aren't going to wobble out on their own. Not knowing what other manufacturers use for material, it's hard to compare ours but I would bet that what we use is as good or better than anything else out there.

Now to the original question.
High steer works well but is only cool for the clearance. And maybe the cool factor. A HD tierod in the factory location works well, is pretty durable, puts less stress on the tie rod ends and is a bit cheaper.
We can fix you up either way, all in one shot or in stages. Make sure you check the CK5 discount page.
 
Does FWP run hydro assist? If so, what kind?

(Sorry for the hijack Rene but I think this is related to your original question)
 
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I would just go with simple crossover. Its gonna be cheaper, it will eliminate the possible interferance problems, and it will make mounting hydro assist easier if and when you go that route. You could either sleve your tie rod, or build a better one. I know plenty of people who wheel HARD with a standard tie rod in front of the axle, who never have any problems. It just has to be beefy. Just my $.04

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Standard as in stock? I have three bent stock tie rods and I don't consider my wheeling "hard". I was going to go high steer but it's too much of a chore.
 
A 1.5 x .375 tie rod is very bend resistant. We have some in serious "drive by braille" applications and while they're not impossible to bend, they're typically very hard to bend. And even when "bent", they're more bowed than bent and still functional.
 
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[ QUOTE ]
I would just go with simple crossover. Its gonna be cheaper, it will eliminate the possible interferance problems, and it will make mounting hydro assist easier if and when you go that route. You could either sleve your tie rod, or build a better one. I know plenty of people who wheel HARD with a standard tie rod in front of the axle, who never have any problems. It just has to be beefy. Just my $.04

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Standard as in stock? I have three bent stock tie rods and I don't consider my wheeling "hard". I was going to go high steer but it's too much of a chore.

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No, standard as in under the leaf springs in front of the axle. Not standard as in factory.
 
Rene,

As you probably recall, I'm running a supersoft front leafpack from ORD (I believe Stephen has them built by Alcan to his individual designs).

The leafpack moves the axle forward 1". I did not have any interferece problems with the standard ORD crossover steering setup, but I did have problems when I converted over the their Hi-Steer arms. There is a noticeable shiny spot on the tie rod directly behind the steering arm, indicating that those two items are in conflict when articulated.

It's not a BAD interference, but with your axle moved forward and extra 1/2" it might be. There are supposedly J**p steering arms that can be swapped in that provide slightly better clearance, or you can play games with slightly smaller diameter tire rod material to eek out a little more breathing room.

Here's a good shot that shows the relationship between the DLE off the steering arm, and it's proximity to to the tie rod.

DSC00582a.jpg


It's not hard to imagine how the two touch when the DS tire is stuffed up...
 
I'm running an old Rockstomper tie rod and have pushed it in pretty good and it just pops right back out with no problem.
 
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