What did I do wrong?

[babyburb]

So I just finished my lift. 4" HD tuff country fronts with zero rates milled to 6 degrees, 7" HD shackles from Kert, 4" sahckle flip from Kert, zero rates, 7" HD cross ties, new shocks, and 14ff disc swap.

So gas tank goes back in and I start it up, no prob. Spend a few minutes bleeding down brakes, and then get into it and put it in drive and I immediatly hear a Clunk. Sit there and can't hear anything else so I give just a little gas and the front drive shaft starts spinning and clicking but the burb goes nowhere and I put it back into park. Shift into lo then lo loc then all the way back to high lock and try it again. No immediate sound, give it a little gas and nothing so far. Pull down the drive and start hearing clunk-clunk.....clunk-clunk.....clunk-clunk so I park it because it is dark and because I have no clue what could be wrong with it.

So what is my problem???

 

[babyburb]

bump for help

 

[ramjet gmc]

look at the drive shaft is the ujoint over angled or bad joimt

 

[babyburb]

The pinion angle... should it be exacly straight wih the driveshaft? I think I remember reading that it should be 2 degrees or so ....LOWER???

 

[thebird00]

Snap a pic. From my understanding the pinion should only be straight with the drive shaft if there is a cv joint on the shaft. There was a great diagram on here once.

 

[Mudstud]

Clunks are usually pretty easy to ID. Look for any binding/rubbing on the shaft.

Don't the lift springs come with a shim attached? If yes then the zero rates should be straight- not degreed. My guess is you have too much angle.

 

[WJACKSON11X]

probably the u-joint binding. If you have a CV style drive shaft like the front then you want the pinion pointing straight at the transfer case, If its a single joint shaft then you want the angles to be the same(offset). Hope that helps.

 

[wasted wages]

CV joint may need to have the "ears' ground down if they are binding.

Also with the new 4" lift the front shaft may be too short and pulled out of the splines in the slip yoke.

 

[Mudstud]

What year rig is this? My second guess would def be the ears on the front cv needing clearancing. With only 4" though I kinda doubt it. The slip joint being pulled out slightly more wouldn't make clunk clunk sound. Grease the slip just to make sure.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I suspect that the amount of lift you just put on pulled the driveshafts far enough apart that the splines are barely engaging now. You will need driveshaft work to lengthen the shafts to correct your problem.

 

[babyburb]

Here's what I have concluded today.

The initial CLUNK was a busted u joint on the rear of my driveshaft. Then it clunks as I slowly drive when it was binding.

I need an explaination on the double u joint sleeve (is this what your refering to as the cv joint). The front u joint busted so I took the drive shaft off and changed ujoint and when I started to put the shaft back in I noticed that the shaft was 2 inched higher than the pinion yoke. Then I took the cv joint?? off from the back ujoint to GRIND some off for clearance when I noticed my back u joint had no movement at all. I have never looked at one so I didn't think anything about it at first but after looking at it again I'm pretty sure someone welded the thing where it would not move. If it would move it would give me the little bit of angle I need for the pinion yoke connection. So is someone would confirm about the cv joint?? it would help. Should the rear ujoint be able to move somewhat?

 

[babyburb]

Also,

THe front drive shaft still has 3 to 4" left before full extention and I am pretty sure the clicking has something to do with the pinion and gear. I asked in another thread but my pinion yoke freely spins in both directions without engaging and it does not have hub locks, It is a 203. Im pretty sure the clicking is the edges of the ring and pinion grinding against each other.

 

[4X4HIGH]

I thought you heard clicking or clunks and the truck didn't move at all. What you are describing now seem like a bad u-joint. Yes the double u-joints back to back are commonly referred to as CV joints. The actual name is a double cardan joint. At any rate, all u-joints should move.

 

[babyburb]

I thought you heard clicking or clunks and the truck didn't move at all. What you are describing now seem like a bad u-joint. Yes the double u-joints back to back are commonly referred to as CV joints. The actual name is a double cardan joint. At any rate, all u-joints should move.

That's my problem then. The rear joint does not move at all. I stared at the thing for 20 minutes or so. The rear joint has the 4 bolts right...the bracket or whatever it is that the ujoint sets in in the cv joint it self goes down into the center of the sleeve but it looks like it is solidly in place in there. Is there suppose to be some sort of rubber bushing or something in there?


Let me find a camera and see if I can up load a pic.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Once i see a pic i can help you further i'm sure.

 

[Dafey]

subscribed

 

[Mudstud]

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The bracket or whatever it is that the ujoint sets in in the cv joint it self goes down into the center of the sleeve but it looks like it is solidly in place in there. Is there suppose to be some sort of rubber bushing or something in there?

There is a another piece that containes a centering ball that holds the very end or tip of the shaft in place. It is held in place by 4 bolts. There are two designs for this centering ball socket that I'm aware of. One uses needle bearings and the other does not. If this is the 203 style CV then you can rebuild it yourself. A new centering flang or yoke can be found at Napa, I paid $50 for mine- and new joints. Hope this helps.

CV-