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What did I do wrong?

Now im starting to wonder if the 40's will fit without pushing the axle forward. If i need to go forward with the axle i may as well get 52s. Im definitely going to run a ram with those big tires but i might as well take the front shaft out and test drive tonight. At least it will tell me if i have death wobble or not. Everything looked brand new inside the kingpin and the axle just came off a running truck so hopefully ill be wobble free.

My 37's rub (just barely) when flexed out and my front axle is 2" forward. I can post a picture of my truck on 40's and 52's with no zero rates.

Pics

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OK i see. I just called a driveline shop in concord and they said its $112 to shorten and balance a shaft. Seems like a decent deal but if i get the 40's put on and i decide i need to move the axle forward with ez inches then im now too close to the limit of the driveshaft, not to mention the hours ill spend lowering the axle and putting the ez's in.

I would be pretty bummed if i had to then get the shaft lengthened.

Im starting to lean towards the 52 swap. i know its going to be a total pain in the rear but maybe its the right thing to do? I think the real answer to all of this is the slip needs to be lengthened by at least double.

At this point i have rims and one good 40" tire so maybe i should mount it and put it on the truck? Problem is i wont be able to figure out how much the axle will move back when its being flexed. i have a feeling with a tire that big you need the ez inches. Most of the people ive seen with big tires are running them for one reason or another.
 
My 37's rub (just barely) when flexed out and my front axle is 2" forward. I can post a picture of my truck on 40's and 52's with no zero rates.


Thanks so much for the pics! There very valuable at this point!!

So its definite that i need the zero rates. Did you do front upper spring hangers with your 52s? seems like they move the hanger up a few inches as well.
 
You have to move the front spring hanger forward with 52s. Otherwise they will push the axle rearward 2".
 
I used the b52 spring hangers from DIY4X when I installed the 52's. I also moved the shackle mount forward.
And just because I don't see any one else doing it. When I reinstalled my old lift springs I left the shackle mount in the same location and still have the b52 front hangers installed. That gave me some room to play with the shackle angle and axle location. I like that route better than an ez inch or zero rate b/c I didn't have to add any more lift to the front, and ultimately my axle is still 2" forward from stock.
 
You have to move the front spring hanger forward with 52s. Otherwise they will push the axle rearward 2".


yeah both the front and the back technically right? Seems like you need the FUSH or diy4x frame eye hangers and they get moved up to get away from the body mount.
 
Just got off the phone with a guy at ORD. He said the 52s are going to give me more trouble then they'll help. So i bought the zero rates from him and ill try them at 1.5 inches and see where im at. Maybe ill get lucky and it will all work lovely. If i get tired of it ill 3 link it lol
 
You mentioned that the previous owner did some rear drive shaft work on your K5. I am going to assume the 4" lift was on when you bought it.

There is your answer, the P.O. likely had a new rear shaft made and had the front retubed for proper length. My front drive line looks stock too, but it's not.
 
You mentioned that the previous owner did some rear drive shaft work on your K5. I am going to assume the 4" lift was on when you bought it.

There is your answer, the P.O. likely had a new rear shaft made and had the front retubed for proper length. My front drive line looks stock too, but it's not.


Yeah the kid who had it clearly flung the rear drive shaft off so a new one was made and it was painted so I figured the front would be painted if it was added to but thats sort of a dumb assumption.

I think you're right....so maybe if I do the zero rates at 1.5" ill be in the clear. :dunno:
 
Yeah the kid who had it clearly flung the rear drive shaft off so a new one was made and it was painted so I figured the front would be painted if it was added to but thats sort of a dumb assumption.

I think you're right....so maybe if I do the zero rates at 1.5" ill be in the clear. :dunno:
I don't have a clue about any of that stuff you guys are talking about 52" springs and all that jazz, but as far as the driveline, it's much cheaper to have a driveline shortened than it is extended. Where the truck sits at the moment, you could either grab an used stock length shaft at a junk yard or have yours shortened, both options probably costing about the same.
 
I don't have a clue about any of that stuff you guys are talking about 52" springs and all that jazz, but as far as the driveline, it's much cheaper to have a driveline shortened than it is extended. Where the truck sits at the moment, you could either grab an used stock length shaft at a junk yard or have yours shortened, both options probably costing about the same.


Yeah i definitely understand that. I can throw a driveline up on a lathe and get it as close to perfect as possible for extending it but the long spline material is $250 at a minimum anyway. Doesn't make sense to even try. The guy i talked to on the phone from ORD said k5s that had a th350 would have a shorter shaft. maybe ill investigate that...btw do you remember monsterk5chev Rjfguitar?
 
You were born a man. We just can't win these days. lol!! :D :haha::haha::haha:
 
The 52s are definitely a can of worms. They do work great for cheap springs, but as mentioned bring about many more expensive things.

Looong shocks like 14-15" and extended mounts to go with them. If you drive on the road good shocks will be better. Crossover steering is a must if you want to be able to use all the travel and steer as well. Hydro assist definitely helped my truck with the lateral movement to get with the springs. Long brake lines are on the must do list. I had a long slip driveshaft when I did mine, but I continually had issues breaking the joint at the pinion. I ended up going to a 1410 with some shims and no issues since.

Check out my build thread for lots of pics and tech with the 52s along the build. I'm on 40s as well.
 
Just got off the phone with a guy at ORD. He said the 52s are going to give me more trouble then they'll help. So i bought the zero rates from him and ill try them at 1.5 inches and see where im at. Maybe ill get lucky and it will all work lovely. If i get tired of it ill 3 link it lol

They say this because they want you to buy there really expensive "custom" springs....there are in the business of making money, so obviously they will tell you don't do this and buy their product. I love my 52's. Best thing I ever did. I truly didn't think it was too much trouble to get mine set up and working well...but that's just me.

Don't get me wrong, the ORD springs are real nice for someone who wants to still drive their rig on the road a lot but get all the travel they can when wheeling, but they are really expensive too. It comes down to, what do you really want out of your truck in the end? Do you want it to be a trail only rig, then 52's are a great way to go. If you want a street/trail rig, don't get into the 52 swap. It won't be worth it
 
The 52s are definitely a can of worms. They do work great for cheap springs, but as mentioned bring about many more expensive things.

Looong shocks like 14-15" and extended mounts to go with them. If you drive on the road good shocks will be better. Crossover steering is a must if you want to be able to use all the travel and steer as well. Hydro assist definitely helped my truck with the lateral movement to get with the springs. Long brake lines are on the must do list. I had a long slip driveshaft when I did mine, but I continually had issues breaking the joint at the pinion. I ended up going to a 1410 with some shims and no issues since.

Check out my build thread for lots of pics and tech with the 52s along the build. I'm on 40s as well.


Im going through your build right now!! So far I have the 14 inch travel shocks, crossover and ill be doing hydro assist soon enough. Did you find a long slip driveshaft from a stock vehicle?
 
I found out the hard way yesterday, my 52" springs move more then I expected and caused my driveshaft to split my T-case down the middle. I'm currently in search of a long slip front driveshaft myself. I'm thinking about just building a square shaft or possibly ordering parts from Driveshaft super store. Either way, i'm hoping someone has some information on a vehicle that has one stock...
 
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