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what did you use to plug one of the dipstick holes on your crate motor?

down4thakrown

down4thakrown

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i had a bolt with electrical tape for a quick fix but ended up falling out....went to the dealership and guy couldnt find anything..so i got like a metal 3/8s push plug but it didnt go in straight cuz i didnt take off headers and didnt have anything really long enough.and its leaks. so im guna take headers off and try to fish it out of there. is that metal plug the right thing to use? and if it fell in there would it be sumthing to stress about and pull the pan to get it out or not worry about it? is just a little 3/8s freeze plug looking piece.
 
I'm thinking get that thing you stuffed in there out. Then get a tube of B2 sealant, and a can of carb cleaner, clean the oil and **** out from inside and around the hole, fill the hole with about a half inch of the sealant, smooth it pretty with your finger, let it dry for 24 hours and forget about it.
 
I've used the plug supplied with the crate motor. I also bought a used crate motor one time that had dipsticks installed on both sides. My buddy figured out the correct size for the drivers side hole and cut the chuck end of a drill bit off and we used that the same as the plug that came with the motor.
 
ya ill look into that b2 sealent...where do i find it? whats it used for? and if that cap plug fell into there should i pull the oil pan to get it out...or would it not be any trouble to anything? i dont think the crank will hit it...in the oil pick up has a screen over it and is about the size of a tennis ball? or close. correct?
 
I'm not sure how to get that thing out of the pan, but I definitely would get it out.
The B2 is actually Aircraft structural sealant, I've seen small tubes of it at Napa that stuff was made by Felpro.
If you were closer I'd just give you some. I have the special fuel-proof variant of it. used in aircraft fuel cells. I get it from Aircraft Spruce for using it at home. Uncle Sam gives me assloads of it at work, thats where I learned about it.
Good ****! Seals almost anything, you can build it up to make structure out of it. Depending on the kind you get you can get some that will cure in 10 minutes all the way up to 1 week cure time. super tough too.
 
coo and it says b2 on iT? well ****...i hope i can get that stupid thing out of there.....
 
get it out . and i had the same question years ago.i now have two dipstick tubes.POS universal blocks.:rolleyes:the OEM one on the passenger side and a pretty chrome thing on the drivers side.:laugh:
 
down4thakrown said:
coo and it says b2 on iT? well ****...i hope i can get that stupid thing out of there.....
Click to expand...
Yes felpro makes the commercial grade called B2, I think it's the same stuff, it smells similar(like 3 miles of bad ass) cures in about 2 hours never leaks ****s up your clothes for life, and sticks to every****ingthing!
Well, B2 is for the "2" hour cure stuff. I use this crap called 8171 that seriously has a 120 hour cure time. it doesn't even set up for 2 days for those really long, drawn out jobs.
B-1/2 has a half hour cure time, B6= you guessed it, 6 hour cure time.
I use the B-half with the "fuel" additive making it extremely fuel resistant. It works best for wet jobs inside fuel tanks. You know the ones that leave you with the dreaded hydrocarbon headache.
 
I know its thin wall tubing, but any way to thread it? Inside or out.
Some light threads on the outside, and I'm thinking a brass air conditioner fitting cap. Threads would not have to be too deep, not any pressure. A little loc tite red, and problem solved.

J.
 
If the block just has a hole for the dipstick tube,I'd use a peice of brakeline the right size ,drive it in and you can weld,braze,or fold over the end to seal it off...

If there is a peice of tube sticking out,how about using a compression fitting that'll fit over the tube,and a bolt in the other end of the compression fitting?..

That sealant sounds like good stuff,I bet J-B Waterweld putty is about the same stuff,it smells horrible too,like a home perm!..but it works great on most applications..

As for the small plug that may have fallen in the crankcase,maybe a magnetic oil drain plug would "catch" it,be better than having it get knocked around in there are possibly get wedged between a rod and crank counterweight or something..but after finding half a push rod and the "cups" from valve lifters stuck in the goo at the bottom of my '69 GTO's oil pan years ago,that had been there long before I owned it,maybe its not worth worrying about!..sticking a speaker magnet to the oil pan might work too..works on gas tanks to keep silty rust from clogging the filters constantly and gumming carbs up!..
 
actually found a old dipstick tube from a new truck at a buddys house and just cut it in half and stuffed down in there and crimped the open end and dabbed some rtv onto it...worked great.
 
Step 1: Drive to local shooting spot
Step 2: Gather up as many different kinds of bullet casings as you can find
Step 3: Try as many as it takes to find the one that is a light press fit
Step 4: Install
Step 5: Admire, drink a beer
Step 6: Repeat step 5
 
A machinist back home here uses 44 cal ot 357 mag. shell cases. I cant remember the exact size but worth a shot.
 
down4thakrown said:
actually found a old dipstick tube from a new truck at a buddys house and just cut it in half and stuffed down in there and crimped the open end and dabbed some rtv onto it...worked great.
Click to expand...
That's almost what i was gonna say. Cut off an old dipstick and weld the end up or w/e. Maybe quick steel if you had to
 
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