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What do you guys think about welding up my 14ff?

Avery4jc

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There are a few trips coming up (one in the snow and a couple in the sand) and I'm really tired of being open front and rear... I could run around all day in the sand in 2wd if I was locked out back which would really make things easier on my drivetrain and in the snow I know being locked is a must.

So anyways I'm kinda kicking around the idea of welding up my 14b. I know it'd be a nightmare to drive on the street but w/e... that's what trailers and tow rigs are for. I see 14ff's with detroits and dana 60's all with 4.56's out of CUCV's pop up for sale all the time so I was thinking weld up my 14ff and run it until I have the money to buy a CUCV for the axles or buy a set of CUCV axles that are being parted out.

I know this probably seems like a vauge/personal choice question but you guys haven't steered me wrong in the past so what do you think?
 
If I yank the whole thing out will I end up having to set it all up again or can I just bolt it all back in and call it good?
 
If I yank the whole thing out will I end up having to set it all up again or can I just bolt it all back in and call it good?

The backlash is set by two "spinners" on each side of the carrier, held down by a couple prongs. Mark the holes that the prongs are in on each side and keep track of the number of turns you spin each one so it goes back together just like it was.
 
Weld it! Make sure to do it the correct way. Don't just tack the gears together, make it one solid chunk on metal. Use spare scrap, nuts, whatever you have to fill the gaps.
 
I'm welded front & rear. Of course I would much rather have selectable lockers, but not to the tune of $1500+.... the price is right for the kind of traction it provides.

Plus, whenever I need to turn, I just disengage my "Warn selectable locker" (aka unlock a hub) :D
 
i just got a free 14 bolt I'm going rear disc and the gov-bomb is shot so I'm going to weld the carrier and see how bad it is on the street time+wire not much to lose.
 
Weld it! Make sure to do it the correct way. Don't just tack the gears together, make it one solid chunk on metal. Use spare scrap, nuts, whatever you have to fill the gaps.
Make sure to do it right, I didn't and blew it at BB now I got to go back in there
 
weld it up. you can leave the carrier in place and weld it in the housing just take your time and get it clean. for performance that biggest thing i noticed is it only chirps on right turns and does wear tires....i could tell on my swampers. also it does increase your turning radius and with a long bed it made for some extra backing up. but is the performance worth it heck yeh!!!! though i would not do it on a DD that didnt see lots of trail time.
 
do it. whether your locked (detroit) or welded, when your in the power they both act the same way in turns.

it will be well worth the time.
 
Mine's been welded for years, and while not a DD I did drive it to and from the trails for years. Definitely do not consider street driving a "nightmare" by any means as the only time I ever notice it is the tire chirping on tight turns in town or a parking lot. Can't notice anything during most road driving.......though I probably wouldn't do it either on a DD that didn't see lots of trail time just as mentioned above.

Do NOT weld it while still in the housing, or with the gears still in the carrier. There is simply no reason to since it's so easy to pull the carrier out of a 14FF, you can weld it better, and by just doing the spiders and side gears (like a mini spool) you always have the option to pull the welded pieces out and replace them with either stock open gears or a Detroit down the road with no gear set up.
 
I'd weld it.

If you get sick of the tires chirpin' around corners, Stand on it.
 
HA like kert said if the chirp bothers you stand on it.....cracks me up. but welding the rear is so easy and it makes a huge diffrence. I have some bald tsl radials and can go more places in 2wd then most people could go open with 4wd. It's a huge diffrence.
 
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