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What do you guys think of these

45acpJr

45acpJr

1/2 ton status
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Well I was putting the finishing touches on my 14 bolt, all I had left was put the axles back in and bolt it together. First side went fine, second side one of the 8 bolts felt a little tight so I backed off and blew it out. Tried again, still tight so I but the impact to it, and snap!! So after looking for a replacement I came across these.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Aluminum-Full-Float-Axle-Hubs_p_1695.html

Problem is they are not cheap and reading thru it I need to change to a 35 spline. Worth it??
 
Just drill out the broken bolt and then chase the threads with a thread chaser (not the same as a tap). The reason the bolt got tight is because it probably had silicone in the bottom of it and when you install the bolt and it reaches the silicone it can't tighten anymore since the silicone is there and wont compress.
 
I dont understand what the hell theyre talking about with needing to change splines? Theres no splines in the outer hub. Its just a flange and 8 bolts.

I do see that they sell a hub with keyways in it and a flange to be welded to a chromo axle but I still dont get what that has to do with spline count anywhere in the axle.
 
Stomis said:
I dont understand what the hell theyre talking about with needing to change splines? Theres no splines in the outer hub. Its just a flange and 8 bolts.

I do see that they sell a hub with keyways in it and a flange to be welded to a chromo axle but I still dont get what that has to do with spline count anywhere in the axle.
Click to expand...

A lot of guys that go to custom aluminum hubs also use shafts with splines on both ends with a drive flange like a front axle. Now, why you'd use a smaller 35 spline shaft in a 14 bolt is beyond me.
 
ALWAYS run a tap or pick in the hub holes of unknow axles to remove the extra rtv over the years.

and when you get it apart check for blown out / cracked inside area of the hub. i have seen this a few times.

heli-coil sometimes works on these but the inner wall thickness is thin can might not give you the thickness you need.

and rtv buildup / broken bolt problem is all same on diff cover bolts also .
 
If you can't get the bolt out, just find another used hub. Since it's a portable part you could have a machine shop get it out, too. I don't see why you would need those high-$$ parts.

On the Ballistic site, they state that the hub is designed to mate with stock axleshafts. You only need new shafts to go with their flanges. I don't know who needs those parts, but it's not the casual wheeler.
 
Yeah I know those were not a necessity but they sure look pretty. I got everything disassembled......again. And just like sweeyk30 predicted I blew out the inner wall. Went to the local diff shop and picked up another. Oh well live and learn, ironically I vaguely remember telling myself this was a bad idea.
 
USSkoval said:
Looks like high dollar parts for the sake of having more bling to me :dunno:
Click to expand...

High dollar for sure, and totally unnecessary for the average wheeler. They're definitely parts for people that are racing and chasing down weight savings.

82355 said:
Too much money.

Martin
Click to expand...


It's all relative :deal:

I/we don't run aluminum hubs but I can certainly appreciate their value.
 
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