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What does it take to run Moab?

nofeartruckin00

1/2 ton status
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Germantown, Wisconsin
Ok, so I'm sure this sounds like a stupid question, but I will ask anyways. I WILL be attending blazer bash 2008. So now that I have almost a year to prepare, I need to hear from people that run the trails there.

All the trails I have run in the past in WI, or the dunes in MI, you can run on 1/2 ton stuff if you don't live on the stupid pedal. But Moab isn't mud and pits, its all rock action from what I see. I've done some rocks around here, and I've got the basics of low range crawling, but I don't want to drive 1400 miles just to break on the 1st trail.

What I have:

1979 chevy 1/2 ton standard cab / short bed
350 fed by quadra jet / SM465 / Dana 44 open / Corp. 12 bolt posi
4-5" suspension lift (blocks in the rear:crazy:)
Warn M8000 front winch
36" TSL's

I have an ORD flip kit and 4" springs, so the blocks will be gone. Will get a new clutch before then. The truck will be trailered to / from Moab, so no worries about street-ability. Will the stock carb handle nose up and down action?

My last truck I ran a Corp. 14 bolt out back w/ 33's, and never feared the skinny pedal.

What's your suggestions for running gear, and not being the stupid guy with a stupid broken part?
 
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Depends on trail . You can show up and there is something for everyone . I ran Hells Revenge , Golden Spike/Poison Spyder Mesa/Gold Bar Rim on 35's and half tons . Once with one locker , once with two lockers .

No biggie , you'll fit in somewhere :thumb:

Only bitch is sometimes you need to bump it , and my 305 is getting older :laugh:
 
lots of money and lots of time, which I have neither of.
 
If you felt confident with 14ff than I would defintly go get one. Cheap, dependable and easy to find maybe with 4:56. Not hard to swap out either. With the front being open you shouldn't break to much. You could always get a 60 too!!
Get rock sliders, cage, extinguisher.....stuff.
 
I'd at least get some sliders, and some bigger axles. With tires that big you'll prolly be snapin axle shafts. But like pauly383 said there are trails for every skill level.
 
sliders will help if you are running certain trails my best advice is to go over everything twice, if you have any of those temporary permanant fixes really fix them. Being prepared is half the battle, I also would take spare rear axleshafts, I am not saying your axles won't take it, I have taken a blazer on 10bs with a rear locker and 36" TSL and not had a problem. But there are some trails in Moab where its a long ways out. Don't go there with brake problems either. Finally a hand throttle it will give you more control and allow you too take it a bit easier on your axles

Fix all those things you have been meaning to fix.
 
Moab offers all levels off 4 wheeling. Trust me, you will be seriously impressed with what your truck is capable of as it is.

Bringing spares is never a bad idea but I don't think you need to worry about upgrading anything.
 
I went with just 1/2 tons and didn't have a problem. I took spare axles but the are still in my tool box. Moab is everything from mild to wild. I am taking mine again in the spring and other than poor over hang mine should be ready.
 
Just in case you didn't know it already it is AWSOME. We didn't go on .01 of the stuff but it was awsome excited about going in the spring.
 
...Will the stock carb handle nose up and down action?...

'85 Q-Jet: I have the float set a hair low, and have a piece of hose on the carb to extend the breather port so as to prevent fuel spillover. It runs well on climbs, but likes to starve for fuel on some of the really steep (nose-in-the-ground) descents like WipeOutHill. Runs fine on the regular steep stuff such as Hell's Revenge etc.

As pointed out before:
1. spare parts, actually in the truck; it's a long way back to town
2. brakes in top shape
3. good general maintenance on the vehicle (no bungee-corded batteries etc.)
4. sliders are good
5. judicious use of right foot
6. too much testosterone will break any truck, no matter how big the axles...
 
Shovel, BFH, broken axle shaft with one end ground to a point (pound it in the ground with the BFH and you have a winch anchor), spare axle shafts. As said earlier, a spare shaft is a nice to have and not need than need and not have. Remember, you have two sizes up front, and another in the back. A limited slip up front might not be a bad idea either. You don't have to fight to make turns, but you'll be locked when you need it. Depending on what trails you do, you might need it. There's some groups that won't let you tag along if you're not locked front and rear. Get a CB. It's great to have contact with other vehicles if you get separated for whatever reason.

The quadra-junk should be just fine. If you don't know how to tune it, learn to, or bring a manual with you. It's higher elevation there, so it will need tuned.

Axle gearing won't matter much with your gear box, but slow is best in the rocks. I don't know what gears you have, but 4.10 - 4.56 will be fine for there, and still usable in your mud environment.

Hit up Moab Diner while you're there. Good food and they finished the new building.


The hand throttle suggestion is a must. The best way to break an axle is to come down off of one rock, get in a bind, and accidentally hit the throttle from the bouncing. With the manual tranny it also frees up your feet to work the clutch and brake together.
 
Oh, and all of the necessary hand tools to replace an axle on the trail. The random spare parts that you have chillin' in your tool box would be nice too, though you can drive many miles on 7 cylinders because the number 6 plug blew apart, it just sucks gas.
 
... BFH, broken axle shaft with one end ground to a point (pound it in the ground with the BFH and you have a winch anchor)....

Interesting suggestion, but I'm having a hard time imagining where on the main Moab trails you could actually do that.

Re spares: I schlepp ready-to-use stuff around; spare front inner/outer axle shafts with fresh U-joints already installed; spare front and rear driveshafts ready to go.
 
Anywhere where it's not 'solid' rock. There's lots of areas where it can be forced through the ground. If a tree is growing, the ground is soft enough. You can also shove it down in crevices if you need to. Depends on how you need the winch, the area, and how much cable you have. If nothing else it's a beating stick for those Jeep people. :D
 
What's your suggestions for running gear, and not being the stupid guy with a stupid broken part?

never been to moab, but i've been "that guy". i had a spare u-joint, but i didn't expect to grenade 2 at once :doah:

i always bring powerade/gatorade, water, and some food when i wheel. no point in taking care of your truck if you don't take care of your body too.
 
You don't need anything special to come to Moab and have a good time.

Being that you are on your first trip to slickrock and the area I would suggest getting what you have in good running order. You can and will be able to run a good number of the easier trails with what you have. I can't preach enough to have your vehicle in good running order and have spares for the common stuff ie axle shafts, starter, spare tires etc.

Don't worry about it. Come have fun and enjoy the area.

If you have the addition of a D60 and 14 bolt in your plans anyway they will make good additions but anything is better than nothing.
 
I ran Moab for the first time this year. First time for me and my spotter and my truck. It was awesome had only one problem a leaky fuel line. Truck is a 3/4 ton Sub 10bolt 14 bolt and a 208 with 35 tires. Ran all of hells revenge had to back up once, there was a guy who is on here who ran it in a stock Ford. Just come out and have fun it totally changed my point of view.
 
Thanks for all the input, really appreciate it! Definetly plan to get the truck running in top shape before hand. I have a bed mounted tool box, so I plan on bringing as many tools and spares as practically possible.

I don't see a D60 in my affordable future, but a 14 bolt will be on the list if time allows. I've thought alot about sliders, but I have yet to find a good way to mount them with the dual saddle tanks. Was thinking about ditching them and running a fuel cell in the bed, but I ruled it as an expensive overkill approach for now. Would saddle tanks be super vunerable to puncture at Moab?

I've done a lot of offroading on 1/2 ton stuff in my old '91 K5, so I'm familiar with the "keep it in one piece" driving style.

Looks like I will spend 90% of my time on making what I have in tip top shape, and go from there. By the way, how are the dates picked for blazer bash? I'd love to have an actual deadline to work towards. Thanks again everyone, and hope to see you in 2008!
 

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