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What ECM choices?

shady

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I dont know if I'm thinking correctly, but I thought I seen on here that there is 2 different part #'s for TBI ECM's.....? Am I making chit up in my head or is that correct? If there is, Is there a more desireable one?

Just a thought thats been nagging me since I'll be buying one soon.
 
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cant find one listed anywhere or what they are for:dunno:
 
The 1227747 is pretty common for the earlier TBI equipped trucks.It works with WinALDL if you dare. This might get better results in the efi forum. Eaglemark knows his shtuff.
 
found the 427 one. their from mid 90's trucks so probably not plug n play... Plus their more expensive... I just need to see if my ecm is why its loosing spark so I will probably just go stock for now.... figured if I was gonna buy one and there was am simple plug n play upgrade I'd look into it....:dunno:

I'm seriously debating just going to a big cap hei and a Qjet.... I wanna recam and do a vortech head swap either way eventually, So it would be easier and probably more power to swap back to carb if i do. this Computerized crap is starting to bug me:doah:
 
had to sell it because of a major bill crunch at the time:doah: changed jobs with a big pay cut, had surgery with time off, and found out I owed $6k to the feds all at once. now I wont have the money for a while for anything like that. and I dont really need it to get the better milage now so :dunno: maybe someday. for now I just want it to run and maybe some power. everry 5.3 swap ive heard done ends up at $2k give or take. I can do a cam, vortechs heads, and Qjet for around $700- $800 and get the same power. already have a dizzy
 
if the ecm works ill just leave it as is
 
ECM doesn't control spark, only timing. Module, ignition fuse, pickup coil, coil, cap/rotor, plugs/wires, that's pretty much it if you are actually losing spark. All problems you'd have with a carbed setup that is HEI.
 
well that's out then.... :confused: If I carb it I can bypass all that crap though. Ive replaced it all already and that's not changing anything...... Im not digging through the harness trying to find a broken wire. I'll run from the battery directly to the column switch and out to turn the coil/dizzy on that way with a carb. I have one wire plug thing to change that everyone says is available but I cant find. (IM to coil) beyond that :dunno:

I guess the ECM's out so I wont be needing one of them.

I figured the only way it can control timing is by telling it when to spark. which means if its bad and DOESNT tell it to spark, then it can cause NO spark... Made sense to me.
 
The ECM does not cause ignition events. The ECM only monitors when the events happen and adjusts the timing of the events. If you have no spark at all your ignition module is most likely at fault.
 
You can't bypass any of that stuff with a carb. HEI is HEI, regardless if the ECM controls timing or not. All the tests that I'm aware of for ignition (coil, pickup, module) are the same whether carbed HEI or EFI.

Wiring issues are wiring issues. Plenty of people have problems with carbs too (Q-jet thread today for instance!) they are not the solution to, well, anything. :)
 
Plus it is a major step backwards in driveability and cold starting going back to an ancient carb. They work, don't get me wrong, but TBI is too easy to fix then to waste your time changing jets and hangers to tune a carb to anywhere near how efficiently a TBI system runs.
 
The ECM does not cause ignition events. The ECM only monitors when the events happen and adjusts the timing of the events. If you have no spark at all your ignition module is most likely at fault.

IM is new, along with pickup coil (whole distributor), coil, cap, rotor, column switch, and coil wire.

You can't bypass any of that stuff with a carb. HEI is HEI, regardless if the ECM controls timing or not. All the tests that I'm aware of for ignition (coil, pickup, module) are the same whether carbed HEI or EFI.

Wiring issues are wiring issues. Plenty of people have problems with carbs too (Q-jet thread today for instance!) they are not the solution to, well, anything. :)
You can bypass that stuff up to the point of the dizzy its self. Half of its IN the dizzy but you can run a large cap HEI with carb and run 1 wire to it bypassing the entire wiring harness.... like nearly every carbed buggy on here. I've personally done it a few times before. My wiring harness Almost has to be the culprit.

Cant run the small cap tbi dizzy like that that I know of:dunno:

And as for tuning and drivability, I'd take it over the bridge by my house about 2 miles to a local speed shop that I've been going to for years and give the dude $75 bucks and pick it up when done.... I've had this thing 4 years almost and only put about 4 or 5 thousand miles on it. It never sees rocks or any super steep grades. Its just a play truck that needs neither MPG or easy cold starts.

I know you guys are trying to help on it and give me advise, I'm not bashing it. I'm very grateful that I'm getting replies and info. But I'm not new to engines or electrical either. changed my first engine without dad around at 15 with a buddy, and been an industrial electrician for 17 years. currently I'm trusted by a major chemical plant to be the sole electrician on site on nights and weekends

As for the ECM I was changing that next due to multiple people on here telling me to try it. If it can change anything about the spark (timing) it can prevent it from happening too. the only way for it to affect timing is to tell it when to spark. So it would seem to me that the pick up tells the ecm where the motor is in its cycle, then the ecm decides if it should send the signal to spark a few milliseconds later or more immediate based on other info it has calculated. Meaning that if that circuit is flawed it could conceivably NOT tell it to spark at all. Its a LONG shot I know.... But I'm running out of patience and ideas with all the unneeded circuitry and electronics involved with the FI


Most of the things you've mentioned have been covered in my build thread already, and I know that's not where this is. Sorry for that mis communication. Im grateful for the help and will keep plugging away at it I guess. I do this stuff too much at work to be willing to tear into the harness at home.

Sorry if I've came across in a bad way. Not intended if that's how its percieved:)
 
Rick I have a spare ECM and wiring harness. Not sure what ECM I'll check this week. Send me a pm if you are interested.
 
I have a spare TBI harness and ECM as well. Yours for free if you want em. From a 93 or 94 pickup IIRC
 
the 90's stuff IS the same then...? I figured It was just different enough to not interchange :dunno: Thanks guys... may be what I have to do... I'll let you know... If the ecm Is small enough it may be a "free item":whistle: at the local U pullit:rolleyes: probably cheaper than shipping. with as little as I actually drive it i'd like to go the easiest route.... but the other route just looks enticing lol. just tried playin with it a bit ago but its been a month since I started it and it kinda has a dead batt:doah:
 
Well if wiring is what you mean about bypassing, I understand what you mean. But wiring is a simple continuity test. Everything has a plug on either end, not like you can't access it.

The ECM can't stop or start spark. Under 400RPM (so startup), spark is SOLELY controlled through the module, no input from the ECM at all. If it was an ECM issue, you'd be able to put a timing light on it and see that it was 0* (or whatever your base timing is) with the bypass wire disconnected, but not in the ~20* range when the bypass was reconnected.
 
spark dies completely, (kills truck then no spark while cranking) so looks like definitely wiring then:doah: I'll have to find a book that actually has the wiring schematics in it. my chilton didnt. Its old as dirt and abused so maybe a new one will. Saves me the $ for an ecm though. thanks guys. we should put any future ideas or info in my build thread now. kind of answered my OP for this one:waytogo:

thread is the 88 burb in my sig
 

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