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What heads should I go with?

There was an issue of hotrod mag in the early 70s that documented one of the vettes, not sure which but I don't think it was the yellow one.

A guy was looking for a 4 bolt main big block to build a race motor out of. He had a friend that work at local machine shop find one for him. When he pick up the aluminum block he didn't think much of it until he got it home and it had the GM stamp on it.

He traced the number back to one of the two vettes made in 69. He said he didn't want to destroy the block so went about trying to find the vette. He did finally find the vette which was in poor shape, missing most of the front clip. He pick up the vette and married back to the block and sold them for a very weak price of $150k.

I wish I could find the article online but never have.
 
Stomis said:
You dont have a ZL1 motor end of story. GM made 69 of them. You might have a GMPP or aftermarket all aluminum big block but trust us all when we say you dont have a factory ZL1 engine, because it would be worth around 800,000 dollars considering the ZL1 the shop I work at left restored worth 1.1 mil.

If you really have a GMPP mill its probably an L88, LS6 or LS7 crate from back in the day.

But honestly unless all these cams you have have the lifters they were broken in with set aside and marked then theyre all junk cause youve got about a 50/50 chance youre gonna lose a lobe installing new lifters on them, unless theyre all roller.

What you should do is call COMP, or Crower, or Crane and tell them what you plan to run. The intricacies of cam selection are many, not that we couldnt point you in the right direction but still. Blower car = cam with mid lift and low overlap to prevent boost leak.
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Thanks. Good idea. But I only have the zl1 block and l88 heads.
 
K5kidd said:
Thanks. Good idea. But I only have the zl1 block and l88 heads.
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I guess anything is possible and since they did make like 200 motors that were sold without cars, to drag race teams, maybe you do have the block of a ZL1.

But we're gonna need to see said awesomeness! :whistle:
 
The ZL1 from back in the day also used 4 more head bolts than any other standard BBC ever built.
 
No ones talking you down bud. Just no one believes youvw got a zl-1. Lol. Cause a zl-1 was not offered after 1969 and was never in a prodution vehicle. Is be surprised I'f you could tell me what the engine block is made from.
4x4high I'm sure has already forgotten more than you'll ever know about building Chevy v8's. So if he's offering you advice I would listen. The little I do know about gasspots thought is you would want a blower profile camshaft. If you're useing a blower.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
 
DEMON44 said:
No ones talking you down bud. Just no one believes youvw got a zl-1. Lol. Cause a zl-1 was not offered after 1969 and was never in a prodution vehicle. Is be surprised I'f you could tell me what the engine block is made from.
4x4high I'm sure has already forgotten more than you'll ever know about building Chevy v8's. So if he's offering you advice I would listen. The little I do know about gasspots thought is you would want a blower profile camshaft. If you're useing a blower.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
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What should I look for in lift sizes? Cuz I may have a milder comp cam layin around.
 
I don't know details about cams, buts its not lift duration that changes. It's lob separation that sets up a blower cam.

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DEMON44 said:
I don't know details about cams, buts its not lift duration that changes. It's lob separation that sets up a blower cam.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk
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Ok thanks alot. I'll just give crower or comp a call tonight. I'll have to do some shopping.
 
Here is one of my comp roller. What should I look for in comparison to these specs for a 6-71?

Lift at 1.6 544/549
Dur. at .050 236/242
Seperation 110
 
Look for a larger lobe seperation angle for a blower.

Also, the better heads you can get will run cooler and make more power. Roots style blowers are known for creating a lot of heat with small heads because of the restriction. If you get the money get some Dart Pro1s, or Brodix, Edelbrock, AFR, etc.
 
folkenheath said:
Look for a larger lobe seperation angle for a blower.

Also, the better heads you can get will run cooler and make more power. Roots style blowers are known for creating a lot of heat with small heads because of the restriction. If you get the money get some Dart Pro1s, or Brodix, Edelbrock, AFR, etc.
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Yea the afr's didn't seem that expensive. I don't know the stock specs on the heads. But people said to use vortec. But the afr's did catch my eye. What is the minimal lobe separation i could use? So I know what to look for?
 
Here is a cam for a ls1. It obviously won't fit but would the specs be okay for a blower?
Specs are: INT EXT
ADV DUR: 281 289
[email protected] 232 240
VALVE LIFT .595 .608
LOBE SEP: 115.0
 
You're going to be better off calling a cam company and telking with one of their tech guys about blower cams. You will get feedback here but those guys deal with the questions everyday and are more knowledgeable about what will work best. Your answers are a phone call away
 
I agree with big pappa, they can recommend a blower specific cam specifically for your exact application. Call Comp Cams or Lunati or Howards, etc.

Where are you at in MI, Dart is located in Troy. They sell some pretty good heads, one of the few companies that do wet flow testing.
 
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