What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

What I think is a quick question(s)

R

RIPPEDK5

Guest
What is the width of a 1986 rear 10 bolt (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface)?


when using a dodge wheel bearing on a GM silverado 1500 (ifs) what brake rotors do you use? and calipers?
 
So the rotor and caliper just bolt on the bearing and have no fitment issue with the chevy 1/2 ton kuckles and steering/suspension?

What is it i have to do, to make the bearing work? I was told something about drilling and some milling....?
 
if you been here this long you should know we dont play much if at all with ifs. :deal:

not trying to be a dick but its the truth . and i have never heard of this option at all.

i personaly think your overthinking a 1/2 ton truck redo on ifs . i know you have your reasons but at heart its still 1/2 ton suspension on the front. and weak as it was designed from them back then.
 
I know everyone here doesnt like IFS but unfortunately, Its my only truck, and the cost of a SAS is FAR more expensive then fixing up the IFS setup.

and not to mention I yet to see anyone where I live, with a SAS get an inspection sticker which; here; is like gold to police especially state troopers.

Its not that I dont want a solid axle; dont get me wrong, but without a welder or good welding skills. it doesnt make any sense for me.

But then again I would love a blazer or solid axle pick-up.. Ive even gotten offered one for $1k this week and would need 1 of everything.. Since my IFS truck has payments still left on it and its mandatory that i keep it in good running order and street worthy; it wins hands down..

Then I know youll ask, why put a 14 bolt in. I am just sick of puting 10 bolts in that dont last, even with stock gears and stock tires.

So i know ya'll dont care and I know your just being honest. But so am I, and reality is harsh here, no shop, no welders and weeks to build things, cant trial and error things. Come monday morning I need my truck again.

Just being honest and im sure some with Newer Body style would agree'
 
So i would guess you suggest just getting a 6 lug rim for the front and an 8 lug for the rear and just deal with the extra rim and tire for a spare
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
So i would guess you suggest just getting a 6 lug rim for the front and an 8 lug for the rear and just deal with the extra rim and tire for a spare
Click to expand...


if you want a stronger axles find a 6 lug semiflaoter. Buddy of mine bought a 373 ptrac 14b 6 lug for 400 that bolted into his 88-98.
 
you are correct since the dodge uses the same 3 bolt pattern to bolt to the knuckle. how ever the hub bolts threads differently to the hub..

my othe question was if the rotors and calipers bolt up from the same dodge 3/4 ton to the chevy front end or if there is machining or if there is another setup that works...

or if just carrying a second spare (for the 6 lug) is just the best way to go...I can surely get adaptors, but the added 2" would put the tires into the bumper and fenders upon turning

if i used a 6 lug semi-float (not a fan of them) I would still have to drill out the lug pattern to match the front and drill out the drums or whatever i use for the brakes. the current axle in my truck had to be drilled to match the front.. If it breaks like its doing (the spiders..again) and the axle takes a crapper like the last one did (axle broke) i am SOL for spares unless the spapres get drilled..

nd I already have a 14BFF
 
Thats why I was curious. I've done unit bearings on 2 3/4 ton dodges, one 2nd gen, one 3rd gen, both had the same 4 bolt unit bearing. My 07 has the 4 bolt as well. What dodges have the 3 bolt unit bearing? 4th gen?
 
I may say to hell with it and just deal with a 6 lug front and 8 lug rear (same rims just different lug pattern) and carry 2 spares...cheaper and less hassle and i dont need spacers which i can use to buy torsion keys to make room for 33" tires

my tires measure 31.5" right now (275/55/20 ugh!:doah:) gunna go to a 16" and see what i can fit without rubbing

thinking of a 4.5" back spacing front and rear with ither 9 or 10" wide steel wheel

Would it make much of a difference if i put a different backspace and rim width in the front ( like 4.5" back space and 9 " width in the front, and 4.0" back space and 10" wide in the rear on a 4wd IFS truck? mainly 4wd drive gets used in the winter and some light wheeling other times.(same gear ratio front and rear)

and the 3 bolt bearings are on the light duty 3/4 ton ( i believe its '02 and older)
 
I think that both the chevy knuckle and dodge unit bearing are threaded so you would have to drill out the threads and use a long bolt with a nut on the back. Lumpdog over on pirate4x4 is very knowledgeable on this subject.
 
I understand wanting to use the 14B FF you already have as it is a much stronger axle, but why wouldn't a NBS 6 lug 14B SF bolt under your truck without mods? I just wondered what I'm missing.:confused:
 
Your right a nbs axle would work well.. however the used cost is astronomical. A used axle that fits my vin (a nbs 10 bolt , needing new brakes, diff fluid, and seals) is $1500 with 80k+ miles on it. Which is about the same mileage mine imploded at and they are even weaker then the obs 10 bolts being that they are 27/28 spline axles in stead of 30 spline. And the 3/4- 1 ton axle is even more expensive then the 10 bolt and still would need brakes etc
 
Your right a nbs axle would work well.. however the used cost is astronomical. A used axle that fits my vin (a nbs 10 bolt , needing new brakes, diff fluid, and seals) is $1500 with 80k+ miles on it. Which is about the same mileage mine imploded at and they are even weaker then the obs 10 bolts being that they are 27/28 spline axles in stead of 30 spline. And the 3/4- 1 ton axle is even more expensive then the 10 bolt and still would need brakes etc
 
RIPPEDK5 said:
Your right a nbs axle would work well.. however the used cost is astronomical. A used axle that fits my vin (a nbs 10 bolt , needing new brakes, diff fluid, and seals) is $1500 with 80k+ miles on it. Which is about the same mileage mine imploded at and they are even weaker then the obs 10 bolts being that they are 27/28 spline axles in stead of 30 spline. And the 3/4- 1 ton axle is even more expensive then the 10 bolt and still would need brakes etc
Click to expand...

1500 for a 10 bolt? Where the hell are you finding that price? You need a rear axle from a 454ss. 5 lug 14 bolt semi floater. There. Aside from the G80 that's an excellent rear axle.
 
Dude, for that price come down to ct, we'll pull one from the local yard for a couple hundred bones and put new brakes on it. 1500 is getting up to dealer prices.
 
$1500 was used from a shop that i worked at from a local bone yard...
I have 6 lug right now and the truck came with drum brakes in the rear and posi axle with 3.42 gears

if you have the axle I need for my truck for a few hundred bucks. I would be interested.. Where in CT?

However this would be the 3rd 10 bolt to go in this truck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom