Magnum97
Registered Member
I know the item on the passenger side of the truck is the NATO Slave-Start plug, but what is the thing on the drivers side in the grill?
CK5
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what is the 2nd thing in the grill. CUCV
- Thread starter Magnum97
- Start date
Magnum97
Registered Member
And what is that?
I'll be picking this truck up next weekend, admittedly I bought it because of the diffs, but I intend to keep it all as one.
I'll be picking this truck up next weekend, admittedly I bought it because of the diffs, but I intend to keep it all as one.
they are really helpful when night crawlin with NVGs
skratch
1/2 ton status
All military vehicles are equipped with blackout lights, they are small very dim lights that mark a vehicle when in "blackout" conditions . . . unless your eyes have fully adjusted to the dark (and even then) they are still hard to pick out unless you are using night vision gear.
The one in the grill of the truck is the "drive" light . . . essentially it is your only "headlight" in these conditions. It has a small light that shines through a small slit and has the hood extending out over it to keep the light shining forward and down. With NVG's on it actually provides a substantial amount of forward light for low speed driving.
Since the stock front bumper is gone you don't also see the blackout markers that are used to judge distance from the vehicle.
I have a ton of different military blackout lights floating around my garage that will someday all go into my Suburban, including the IR lights (essentially high output driving lights with blackout lenses on them, make it look like high noon with NVG's)
The one in the grill of the truck is the "drive" light . . . essentially it is your only "headlight" in these conditions. It has a small light that shines through a small slit and has the hood extending out over it to keep the light shining forward and down. With NVG's on it actually provides a substantial amount of forward light for low speed driving.
Since the stock front bumper is gone you don't also see the blackout markers that are used to judge distance from the vehicle.
I have a ton of different military blackout lights floating around my garage that will someday all go into my Suburban, including the IR lights (essentially high output driving lights with blackout lenses on them, make it look like high noon with NVG's)
Magnum97
Registered Member
thank you
The only thing you gotta watch with the blackout lights is the way they wired up the lighting for the truck. In the cab there are 2 switches; one is for the main lights (essentially the "normal" lights) and the other is for the blackout lights. In order for the blackout lights to operate, the main light switch has to be off.
The problem I've found is that many times that main switch mysteriously gets turned off (this is frequently following a period of time when my sons have been left unattended in the truck
). Anyway, if that "main" switch is off, ALL lights won't work; turn signals, brake lights, headlights, and interior lights. I usually don't figure it out until I realize the turn signals aren't working. Then I realize I've driving around with no brake lights probably pissing off a lot of people. 
Just a heads up.
The problem I've found is that many times that main switch mysteriously gets turned off (this is frequently following a period of time when my sons have been left unattended in the truck
). Anyway, if that "main" switch is off, ALL lights won't work; turn signals, brake lights, headlights, and interior lights. I usually don't figure it out until I realize the turn signals aren't working. Then I realize I've driving around with no brake lights probably pissing off a lot of people. Just a heads up.
Magnum97
Registered Member
That is funny, because I have no brake lights, or reverse lights, and someone (previous owner) just ran a 10 AWG wire from the hot junction box to the hot position in the light switch. possible relation?
Edit: And someone converted it all back to 12 Volt, and removed both the switches for Blackout Lighting
Edit: And someone converted it all back to 12 Volt, and removed both the switches for Blackout Lighting
Yeah, that 10AWG wire is probably serving as a jumper for where the main switch was relaying power between the 2. It's also possible that switch had failed. Or it was scavenged for spare parts before the military got rid of it.
As far as I know the brake light switch is down by the brake pedal. You probably have a switch on the gas pedal linkage for the kick down switch for the TH400.
As far as I know the brake light switch is down by the brake pedal. You probably have a switch on the gas pedal linkage for the kick down switch for the TH400.
Magnum97
Registered Member
Does the torque converter not lock on a TH400?
I had been assuming that the switch on the brake pedal was to unlock it, however I suppose it would make more sense your way.
I had been assuming that the switch on the brake pedal was to unlock it, however I suppose it would make more sense your way.
A TH400 DOES NOT utilize a lock-up convertor. The switch on the pedal is for kickdown purposes only.
Magnum97
Registered Member
Well then, don't I look like an idiot.
But can you give me guidance for my wiper issues (see other thread)?
But can you give me guidance for my wiper issues (see other thread)?
