84CUCV said:
So could it affect it when starting?
Yes it could. If you're using the original cucv glow module, the switch can shorten or lengthen glow duration.
A defective temperature switch shouldn't prevent a cold engine from starting though.
Reading your earlier postings, I'm wondering if your (new) glow plugs even do cycle on.
During operation of the plugs you should have
ALL of the following:
- "wait" light comes on after you turned the key
- a visible drop at the voltmeter
- a klicking sound from the glow plug relay?
If not, have you tried rene's advice and ran
12v from the junction block to the relay? Don't connect it to the big junction block on the firewall right behind the rear battery, this are
24v!
You should either use the small junction block behind the hydroboost or (better) run a heavier gauge from the + post of the front battery or the - post of the rear battery.
Maybe you could do some electrical measurements in comparison with your M1028?
Another thing you can do is to jump the relay. Connect a gauge with a 12v feed between the 2 large posts of the relay. You should hear a clicking sound. Have a helper start the engine after 10-15 seconds of jumping the relay. With all good plugs she should start like a charm . . .
If this doesn't help, test your plugs again. I'm doing this by connecting one plug after another to a 12v battery (tip to +, thread to ground). A good plug glows in about 5 seconds from top to bottom. Use some pliers, these things are getting HOT!
Good luck.
Walter
Maybe it´s the glowplugrelay or you maybe call it glowplugcontroller.
