What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

what kind of tubing for tranny lines?

9

90K5

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 1, 2000
Posts
3,719
Reaction score
0
Location
Lubbock, TX
Im needing to replace the tranny lines to the radiator on my '01 silverado...plumbed in a cooler a little while ago and the rubber hoses keep leaking. What would be the best tubing to use for this? Im thinking of copper, mostly because of cost and availability, but i seem to remember some reason why not to do that. Havent looked at it in a while, but i think the stock stuff is aluminum, maybe stainless steel? thanks
 
Last edited:
the stock lines are coated steel to "stop rust" (yeah right) but the best bet is where you spliced in your cooler, flair the metal line where you slide the rubber over and clamp with high spess clamps, get at hardware store, and the rubbber line should be graded for transmission pressures and fluid rates

luke
 
i Really like the blue twist lock hose. Its what you would use with the twist lock an fittings. Russell makes it. aluminum would also work just no as easy as the rubber hose and barb fitting method. 634160 is the part number of the 25' roll.

Hope this helps,
 
Those twist lock fittings look interesting...not too familiar with this stuff, what exactly is AN, and how do you determine the sizes needed? Also, any idea on the cost of the fittings and hose? thanks....i think ill try flaring it tonight, cause i can do it for free, but definately want a long term solution, rubber tranny cooler hoses seem to rot out in a few years
 
Basically the twist lock fittings are very similar to a barb fitting but have a very high quaility hose between the fittings. A rubber line will only take the pressure for a while and then will start to leak and then fail. The twist lock line is a super tough ruber with a braided line built into the hose. The fittings have the barb and then the nut screws down onto the fitting making it a tight fit. I have this type of line and fittings on my edelbrock proflow fuel injection and have had zero leaks or problems. When i switch out to a cell i will be using this type of hose and fittings.
 
i run #6 Russell steelbraided with endura fullflow ends...


13480tcooler1.jpg


pretty bulletproof. and really not "that" expensive, tho mine was a freebie...

13480tfilter1.jpg
 
so...is the twist lock some kind of braided hose or is it rigid, like the stuff that comes on there stock?
 
mine are still patched!!

I was tempted to use copper,due to the fact they rust out so quickly here--but I saw in a GM manual where it said to never use copper or aluminum tubing,that it wont hold up under normal driving stresses--I tend to think thats not quite true,but so far I havent tried copper,in fact,one truck still has rubber hose and clamps on one tranny line where it got rubbed thru by the front driveshaft!:blush: --I have been meaning to fix it right,but havent gotten to it yet,havent driven any of my trucks much lately-(and its the 82 K20 I plow with too!:blush: )-
-I keep using steel lines,but they suck--a year later they are rotted thru again--maybe the copper tubing used for air brakes that has thicker walls would be suitable for tranny lines--stainless is too expensive for me,and I think the braided lines,while they do work ok,and look nice,might actually increase the temparature of the tranny--after getting a nasty burn when I leaned against my tranny cooler lines,I think the lines themselves do a lot of the cooling....or at least help...

The rubber hose that works best is the stuff made specifically for tranny coolers,but its kind of hard to find in some places--I've used 3/8 power steering return line hose,it slips over the 5/16 lines and as long as you clamp it right where the tube is flared it wont leak,but dont try sliding it over a 5/16 tube without a flare,it will leak like a seive and probably blow off!!..:crazy:

I was tempted to use 1/8 inch galvanized pipe for the main run to the cooler and use the 5/16 tube just to connect the pipe to the tranny and cooler,that would take a long time to rust out--but I'm not into re-inventing the wheel as much as I used to be--now I just patch it,and keep driving!:blush: .
 
If you goto your local autozone, and request some hard brakeline, it works great, especialy if you get a mini tubing bender. at $3 to $4 per 60 inch length of it, flarenut ends, and sizes ranging from 18 inches to 60 inches in 6 to 8 inch increments, it's hard to go wrong. Tubing diameter runs Inside diameter from 1/4 inch to 7/16 (maybe even 1/2) in 1/16 intervals. When I found out how cheap hardline was, I replumbed everything on my truck that had softlines (except the flex zones) with hardline, and never had a leak again.

Edit:
diesel4me said:
-I keep using steel lines,but they suck--a year later they are rotted thru again--maybe the copper tubing used for air brakes that has thicker walls would be suitable for tranny lines--stainless is too expensive for me,and I think the braided lines,while they do work ok,and look nice,might actually increase the temparature of the tranny--after getting a nasty burn when I leaned against my tranny cooler lines,I think the lines themselves do a lot of the cooling....or at least help...
Click to expand...
I guess I've never had these problems because I used to live in Arizona, and now live in California. :D Were you using Brakeline tubing, or just steel tubing?
 
damn man, havent seen you on here in a while...guess i havent been either though...hardlines at autozone sound like what im looking for though, will probably need a little more than 60", but that can be worked around
 
there all crap---

I use the ready made brake lines,and no matter what brand they are,or what they coat them with(galvanized,paint,teflon)they STILL rust away in a year or two--less if if you get any salt on them...

I have used steel tubing sold as brakeline in 25 ft coils that seemed to last a lot longer than the ready made brake lines,maybe the coils in bulk have thicker wall tubing or better corrosion resistance or something--all I know is I'm tired of fixing rotted brake ,fuel,and tranny lines on my trucks--seems like every time I drive one of them a line pops....:mad: --I need to relocate to arizona I guess,if I'm gonna keep driving old trucks--arent many left around here that arent rotted junk....:crazy:
 
I just replumbed my trans cooler about 2 months ago or so.

I used 5/16th's brake line.I double flared the ends and made a small bubble in the ends that had rubber lines just clamped on.
DSCN1482-vi.jpg

I also made some braided stainless covered rubber lines for the connections between body panels.Basically area's where there would be flex.
DSCN1476-vi.jpg


You can see ALL the pic's I took HERE
 
Last edited:
Brake lines come:
8
12
20
30
40
51
60

Lengths are in inches.

Just for future reference for you guys. :)
 
90K5 said:
Those twist lock fittings look interesting...not too familiar with this stuff, what exactly is AN, and how do you determine the sizes needed? Also, any idea on the cost of the fittings and hose? thanks....i think ill try flaring it tonight, cause i can do it for free, but definately want a long term solution, rubber tranny cooler hoses seem to rot out in a few years
Click to expand...

AN fittings are the same as JIC fittings. AN comes in purty anodized aluminum where JIC comes in brass or steel depending on the particular fitting. Both have a 37* sealing angle and the adapters and hose ends are directly interchangable. They DO NOT seal in the threads, no teflon tape wanted there. They are sized by dash number, i.e. -3, -6, -12 etc. To get the equivelent fractional size put the number over 16. So a -3 is 3/16", -6 is 6/16 = 3/8", -12 is 12/16 = 3/4" Those are not the actual ID's - just the equivelent ID's, trying to measure the hose will only confuse you.

The Russel Twist-Lok hose & fittings are a variation of the older and known to work "Pusk-Lok" hose and fittings. Push-lok fittings do not want a hose clamp, you will damage the hose if you put one on. For extra security I put a T&B tie wrap btwn the barbs and only lightly cinch it down. There are crimpable over ferrules made for certain applications, but then the hose to fitting junction isn't field repairable.
Aeroquip AQP hose is used on Push-lok fittings and is blue, if blue hose blows your skirt up. AQP hose is good for 250 PSI w/o Russell's 'twist-lok' outer ferrule, and will take 300*f. Push-lok fittings will also work with normal rubber hose.

Ryoken, a heads up on that remote filter pad. Those die cast ones are shunned in dez racing b/c they are brittle and fail easily. Usually they break btwn the filter pad and the mounting flange. So they don't usually leak when they break, they just let the fliter bang around until it leaks. There are sand cast versions of that part available. They are much thicker in the critical areas and aren't as spendy as the billet parts.
 
They would not last long here in that location!

BobK said:
I just replumbed my trans cooler about 2 months ago or so.

I used 5/16th's brake line.I double flared the ends and made a small bubble in the ends that had rubber lines just clamped on.
DSCN1482-vi.jpg

I also made some braided stainless covered rubber lines for the connections between body panels.Basically area's where there would be flex.
DSCN1476-vi.jpg


You can see ALL the pic's I took HERE
Click to expand...



If I routed my tranny lines there where I live,I'd be lucky to get one year out of them--salt spraying off the tires rusts steel lines real fast around here!

I just replaced the steel brake line on the drivers side of my 82 K20 a year ago,in a snowstorm--I looked at it testerday,and I think if I'm lucky it will make it to spring before I have to change it again!--yet the original GM brake lines lasted since 82 til 2004--something tells me the pre-made lines are made of recycled crap,covered with fake galvanized or other fancy coatings,that dont work to prevent rust....

This is why I need to be in california,arizona,anywhere but here....:frown1:
 
Ryoken, a heads up on that remote filter pad. Those die cast ones are shunned in dez racing b/c they are brittle and fail easily. Usually they break btwn the filter pad and the mounting flange. So they don't usually leak when they break, they just let the fliter bang around until it leaks. There are sand cast versions of that part available. They are much thicker in the critical areas and aren't as spendy as the billet parts.
Click to expand...

Got any brand-names and/or part #'s for the better ones?
 
diesel4me said:
I was tempted to use copper,due to the fact they rust out so quickly here--but I saw in a GM manual where it said to never use copper or aluminum tubing,that it wont hold up under normal driving stresses--I tend to think thats not quite true,but so far I havent tried copper,in fact,one truck still has rubber hose and clamps on one tranny line where it got rubbed thru by the front driveshaft!:blush: --I have been meaning to fix it right,but havent gotten to it yet,havent driven any of my trucks much lately-(and its the 82 K20 I plow with too!:blush: )-
-I keep using steel lines,but they suck--a year later they are rotted thru again--maybe the copper tubing used for air brakes that has thicker walls would be suitable for tranny lines--stainless is too expensive for me,and I think the braided lines,while they do work ok,and look nice,might actually increase the temparature of the tranny--after getting a nasty burn when I leaned against my tranny cooler lines,I think the lines themselves do a lot of the cooling....or at least help...

The rubber hose that works best is the stuff made specifically for tranny coolers,but its kind of hard to find in some places--I've used 3/8 power steering return line hose,it slips over the 5/16 lines and as long as you clamp it right where the tube is flared it wont leak,but dont try sliding it over a 5/16 tube without a flare,it will leak like a seive and probably blow off!!..:crazy:

I was tempted to use 1/8 inch galvanized pipe for the main run to the cooler and use the 5/16 tube just to connect the pipe to the tranny and cooler,that would take a long time to rust out--but I'm not into re-inventing the wheel as much as I used to be--now I just patch it,and keep driving!:blush: .
Click to expand...
probably depends on what type of copper you use...maybe the refrigeration line would be allright, since its thicker, but then its got a smaller ID...also using type L instead of M...not sure if it comes in soft copper or not though...would be nice and cheap too...anyone know?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom