I picked up a '91 K5 Jimmy about a year ago. I have just done some body work, getting rid of the rusted out floor, a little body rust, etc. It was a Michigan truck. I'd like to hear some opinions on what lift to do on it and what wheels and tires to run. It's main use is at the Silver Lake Sand Dunes in Michigan and just wheeling around on the weekends. It is completely stock now with 31's.
CK5
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What Lift To Install
- Thread starter 91 Jimmy
- Start date
Choices
Hey, welcome to the site. I'm picking up my (new to me) 1989 K5 on Sunday, which is just like yours, completely stock. I've asked around for suggestions about lifts and heights. I finally chose 4" Rough Country. The cost and the fact you get all the accessories included made me decide to get one. Check this tread for ideas
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170627
Hey, welcome to the site. I'm picking up my (new to me) 1989 K5 on Sunday, which is just like yours, completely stock. I've asked around for suggestions about lifts and heights. I finally chose 4" Rough Country. The cost and the fact you get all the accessories included made me decide to get one. Check this tread for ideas
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170627
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
4 inch lift kit with all accesories,steering corrections nad shocks is a good choice.the rough country is a decent setup,but the springs are rough as their name implies.
.tuff country ez rides are a lot nicer ride and flex pretty good.with 4 inches you can fit a 35 inch tire.with what you do this should be a great setup for ya.cant help ya on tires much.for sand all terrains are a good choice.they dont dig in too bad and aired down a lil should keep ya on top of the sand.bfg at are an excelent choice and also offer a 50,000 mile warrantee.they work alright on rocks and are a good street tire.
Blocks in the back = axle wrap. You'll regret that in the sand.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/3inchliftsystem.htm
Is what I'd do. That with some 33's or maybe 35's and you'd be more than set for Silver Lake.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/3inchliftsystem.htm
Is what I'd do. That with some 33's or maybe 35's and you'd be more than set for Silver Lake.
For 4", neither.
A shackle flip will let you use the same springs you have.
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm
http://www.diy4x.com/suspension.htm (scroll down to "Shackle Flip 'N' Switch")
Blocks increase axle wrap and make you check your U-bolt torque all the time, as otherwise they want to pop out at inopportune times. [Is there a good time?
]New springs might do well, though they could be softer or stiffer than your old ones, but prolly cost more than a flip kit. While they're labor-intensive to install, the flip kit can be done by the average shadetree mechanic, and you learn a hell of a lot about your suspension while you're in there
I also *highly* recommend greasable poly bushings all around. After you spend FOREVER removing the old ones you'll know why.
-- A
Yes and yes. The front would need a regular lift with lift springs.
I'm now leaning towards the shackle flip after doing some research today. What are your guys thoughts on zero rates for the rear to balance it out. Is it a noticeable difference? Or not really worth it. Also if I run 35's will I need to change my gearing at all?
Yes, you'll prolly want to regear for 35"s. However, you may find it cheaper just to upgrade axles ... I switched to a 3/4 ton, i.e. 8-lug 10bolt front and a 14BFF rear, with matching 4.10:1's, cost me less than regearing my existing axles. AND I get the 14BFF
I wouldn't do zero rates until after you've gotten the lift done, as there's no way to tell what the ride height will be like until you're done. There's just too many variables.
-- A
I say do the zero rates. He can always get another set and throw them under the front. Not to mention, being a Michigan truck, 18 years worth of potholes have probably sagged the rear springs a bit.
Definitely put new axles in with deeper gears. There was a set of 3/4 ton axles on Craigslist up here not to long ago. They show up relatively frequently and we have a decent sized MI community here.
Definitely put new axles in with deeper gears. There was a set of 3/4 ton axles on Craigslist up here not to long ago. They show up relatively frequently and we have a decent sized MI community here.
LeadFoot69
Registered Member
35's are a good tire size, and with about a 6" lift they won't rub. For something less aggressive, 33's and a 4" lift would be good too
what kind of gearing/axles are stock on my truck? I don't think they have been modified. Also, how much $$$ would I be looking at to replace both axles? As long as I don't get a 1 ton everything should fit with modifying any mounts? i don't know a lot about axles/gearing. If i don't regear and run 35's, will I be replacing alot of bearings or what will be the down side
chulisohombre
1/2 ton status
should be stock 10 bolt front and rear.probably 3.08 to 3.73 to 1 gears.only way to tellis to pull the diff cover and look for the stamp on ring gear or count the teeth on the ring and pinion and divide.you can also lift one tire(open diff) and rotate the tire and count how many times the driveshaft spins for one revolution of the tire and divide.with 35 inch tires and sand wheeling the axles should hold up well.it will start to eat bearings every couple of years if you drive it on the road a lot of miles.with light wheeling you would probably be alright with 35's.make sure to have spare axleshafts.wheel it till it breaks then upgrade what breaks with stronger components.i still have my half ton front and have only broke it a few times with 35's.my 12 bolt rear was the problem with breakage.so i upgraded to 3/4 ton all the way around.dana 60's are not that plentifull in my area.14 bolts are on the other hand.so it worked out that way.
