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What makes a 1 ton?

stallion85

stallion85

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 11, 2003
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Location
Cedar City, UT
Do I have it correct thinking that a 14ff rear and a D60 makes you 1ton? 3/4 ton would be because you have a halfton front and 3/4 ton rear? I know this might sound like an easy one but I have never really known what exactly put you at the one ton mark. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
half ton= dana 44 or 10 bolt front 6 lug and 10 or 12 bolt rear 3/4 ton= dana 44 or 10bolt front 8 lug 14ff or 14sf rear 1ton= dana 60 front and 14ff rear
 
If you get a complete K30. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif

Or swap enough 1-ton stuff onto yours, until you consider it as strong as a 1-ton. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

I've got a 700R4 in my Sub and I will consider it a 1T after I put in my D60. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif Since my 700R4 is a bowtie overdrives level 3, I'll bet it will perform better than a STOCK th400.

A BUILT th400 would be betterthan 1-ton. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Spring rates, engine size, accessories, and options may vary. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I had both a 3/4-ton and a 1-ton 4X4 at one time, and both had a Dana 60 in the front and a Corp 14ff in the rear. The only difference I could find between the two was that the 1-ton rear drums and shoes were 1/2 inch wider than the 3/4-ton, and the leaf spring pack on the 1-ton had 9 leafs, as opposed to the 3/4-ton that had 7 leaf springs.

Hey Stallion, did you get my PM?
 
pmd you /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif Oh yea by the way you can call me Jeff /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif My wifes the only one who calls me Stallion /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
OK, I just spent the last 30 minutes digging through a big box full of documents from the many GM trucks I have owned in my life, and...

Ooooops, You are correct! After doing some serious digging for the trucks old paper work, it was a K35, but I remember the fender tags, which I removed before painting it, saying K25 (I still have the fender tags in a box of old parts). I only had the truck for a few weeks. I bought it for $500, and put tires, brakes, clutch, new carburetor, tune-up, and a cheap paint job on it, then turned around and sold it for $5000. The guy that I sold it too, still owns it to this day. I gotta start thinking what the hell I am posting before I start spouting off. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
The only thing that makes it a 1-ton or 3/4 ton is the rating given to the truck by the factory. I'm not sure of the exact origins of the rating but I believe it was the payload capacity of the truck. It has nothing to do with axles and stuff, but they are a damned good indication of what the truck is /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Andy
 
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The only thing that makes it a 1-ton or 3/4 ton is the rating given to the truck by the factory. I'm not sure of the exact origins of the rating but I believe it was the payload capacity of the truck. It has nothing to do with axles and stuff, but they are a damned good indication of what the truck is /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Andy

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You are exactly right! Axles have nothing to do with what a 1 ton is. A truck rated as a 1 ton is able to carry a certain amount of payload and tow a certain amount of weight. The only place the axles actually come into play is that the manufacturer used say a 14BFF instead of a 12B because it can carry the weight that the truck is rated to haul/tow. Essentually GM could have just made a beefier D44 and put that under the 1 tons because they don't care if its a D60, D44, whatever, they just want it to be able to support the rated weight under a load.
 
yup, cause you can bet a c series 1 ton sure doesn't have that holy grail under the front end. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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My wifes the only one who calls me Stallion /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

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I hope that wasn't something about your kinky realationship was it? /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif


























































































































Sorry, I had to say. I hope you don't take offence /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
I still call my truck a K10, but considering it was a factory 305, 700R4/NP 208 truck with 10 bolts, and now it has a 350 (which wasn't available in a K10 from 82-86) SM 465 with hydro clutch (which wasn't available until 1985) and NP 205 (which wasn't available in a 1/2 ton with fixed yoke since the '70s) and of course the mighty D60/14 FF combo which were never available in a K10 at all.

So, is it a K10? K30? It's a shortbed though so it can't really be a K30 I suppose. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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So, is it a K10? K30? It's a shortbed though so it can't really be a K30 I suppose. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

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Doesnt have a strong enough frame to be a K30 either /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Any strength difference in any of the frames is minimal IMO. All of them crack in the same areas, so one must not be better than the other.

Although the thought of shortening the K30's frame instead of swapping cabs has come to mind. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
I dont understand the 1ton thing either but I KNOW when we pulled the Sub dad bought from the military out of the back 40 with a CAT that he said was a 1ton we actually found a 14ff in the rear and a D60 in the front with a set of massive springs. There were no ID #s left on the body we could find and Ive never heard of a 1ton Sub but Ive put wat too much in my 76 K2500 sub and still pulled atrailer without probs! So a 1 ton must be fairly relitive under a rig not carrying weight. Thats why I have a big Sub so abuse just softens the springs a bit. HA HA /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
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No Suburban ever came from the factory with a Dana 60 so it was a retrofit without question.

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Back in the 70's burb did come from the factory with a D60, but they were special order military ONLY rigs. Was never even an option for the general public.
 
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No Suburban ever came from the factory with a Dana 60 so it was a retrofit without question.

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Back in the 70's burb did come from the factory with a D60, but they were special order military ONLY rigs. Was never even an option for the general public.

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I have never seen a military Suburban.

If such a rig does exist it's got to be really rare.
 
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Any strength difference in any of the frames is minimal IMO. All of them crack in the same areas, so one must not be better than the other.

Although the thought of shortening the K30's frame instead of swapping cabs has come to mind. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

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K30 frames are a lot stronger. The added strength is mostly in the section that goes under the cab and the front part of the box. This is the part that keeps the frame from buckling when you load the bed heavy, or hook up a gooseneck or fifth wheel with a heavy pin weight. It also keeps the frame from twisting so much when the suspension flexes. They are probably no stronger in the steering box area where they usually crack.
 
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