What MC are you running?

[MNorby]

Got my brakes all plumbed back in with an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. Stock MC and booster and I can barely keep it stopped in 2X low. I have the 60 in the front and disked 14 out back. What MC have you guys had luck with while still keeping stock booster? What boosters? etc? Thanks.

 

[70jimmy]

I went with a stock MC and booster for a 1 ton truck of the same era. I also put a residual pressure valve in along with the adjustable proportioning valve. It keeps a couple pounds of pressure on the rear discs and supposedly doesn't allow them to back off a lot so when you hit them the calipers don't have to move far.

My brakes work fantastic!!

mine is 3/4 ton 10 bolt front welded with 14 bolt FF rear and detroit, about 7 inches lift on 37 inch krawlers

 

[Burt4x4]

I have the 1Ton MC/Bootster:

Note on the 1Ton MC the lines from the P-valve are opposite of a 1/2 ton setup.
Before I did the 1Ton swap(axels not MC/booster) I could lock up all 4 swampers no problem, never could do that with 1/2 ton setup.

Now I have D60 w/14FF disk my brakes are alot softer but I think it has everything to do with the fact I have not got all the air out of my brake lines yet.
I hear HydroBoost is the best upgrade out of all the setups.....

 

[MNorby]

I've contemplated the hydro boost alot but for now just need something with more bore to push more fluid. When you say opposite you mean the front line and rear line are swapped on the MC?

 

[MNorby]

also is a 2 psi resid valve about right?

 

[Burt4x4]

I've contemplated the hydro boost alot but for now just need something with more bore to push more fluid. When you say opposite you mean the front line and rear line are swapped on the MC?

Ya the front brakes off the P-valve goes to the rear of the MC instead of the front like the 1/2ton stuff. I bought new p-valve to MC lines from inlinetube for like 25bucks.

I have no clue about the psi question?

 

[bp71k5]

A residual pressure valve is not needed with 4-wheel brakes since discs are all self-adjusting. It's only used for drums on the rear since the travel is so far. Depending on your calipers, they might be soft due to air in the lines. The caddy calipers need to be unmounted off the axle to bleed right since the bleeder valve isn't pointing upwards.

 

[Burt4x4]

I have, I think, 10bolt calipers. Aren't they the same as D44 calipers?

Ya I have more bleeding to do?
So are you saying a P-valve is not needed with rear disk?

 

[GotBoykins]

I used a booster/master cylinder off of a 72 c20. Dual diaphragm type, same as the 1 ton, may be a little smaller. It will lock the tires up around 30mph, haven't tried any faster, I'm a little scared of that. My Jimmy is disc'd, 456's and locked, if I am in 4 lo and give it any gas I can't stop it.

 

[bp71k5]

Hi Burt,

No you probably need a P-valve, but you need to disable the "pressure hold off" valve on the front of it. That is the thing that will normally hold hold off the pressure to your front brakes while the rear drums take time to grab. It's under the little rubber button on the p-valve. They only use those for drums.

In some cases there is a "residual pressure valve" for the rear (some say it's on the MC, but the my 71 doesn't have it).
I ended up just buying a new p-valve made for 4-wheel disks from inline tube since I didn't want the hassle. It includes a proportional valve which works just like the adjustable proportioning valves you can get from wilwood, it just isn't adjustable.

 

[hipurr72]

Ain't nothin' better than hydro boost!