What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

What method do you use to remove frame rivets?

What method do you use to remove frame rivets?

  • Drill

    Votes: 8 10.1%

  • Air chisel

    Votes: 27 34.2%

  • Big ole Air Hammer

    Votes: 6 7.6%

  • Torch

    Votes: 20 25.3%

  • TNT

    Votes: 18 22.8%
  • Total voters
    79
gambit420s

gambit420s

1/2 ton status
Joined
May 17, 2005
Posts
294
Reaction score
0
Location
KnoxVegas, Tennessee
After drilling out two of these, i switched to a small air chisel but that didnt quite work for me. so i broke out ths thing... 15-20 seconds each and theyre gone :D :D
when in doubt use a bigger hammer....
 
i use a cut off wheel in a air die grinder or a right angle air grinder and cut two slots that looks like a "plus" sine( + ), i try to cut down to the frame or bracket without gouging the frame or bracket then i air chisle it. its much easier to chisle four little pieces then one big rivet head. then sometimes the rivet can be hammered out, if not then i use drills to releave it so it can be hammered out. i use a 1/8 drill in my right angle air grinder with a 1/8 collet and i drill out the center to just past the thickness of the frame or bracket, i dont drill through so i can use the bottom of the hole the use a punch on. the air grinder will drill it at a fast rate so it goes pretty quick, then i use a 1/4 drill and if necessary a 3/8 drill then a punch to knock it out. thats my method, it works for me.
 
Cold Chisel--on steroids!

I used to use a "masons" chisel with a 5lb hammer to chop rivets off frame brackets...until I saw a guy at the junkyard use a all steel camping hatchet and a hammer!--he put the hatchet between the bracket and the frame,and gave it 3 or 4 good whacks,and the rivets sheared right off,the brackets were not damaged hardly at all(nothing bolting them to another frame would not fix anyway)..
I was amazed how good it worked!--I'd wear a face sheild if you try this at home!..one reason it works well is because the handle of the hatchet keeps your hand out of the line of fire,and your not scared to give a good blow with the 5lb hammer!.. :rolleyes:

I took this idea one step higher!--I had an old logspilitting wedge that had an "eye" in the center for a handle,like a hammer head does--I welded a peice of pipe to it 18" long for a handle,and I hit it with a 5lb ball pein or sledge hammer HARD and it only takes one or two whacks to shear the rivets!--If you use it like an AX its pretty effective too--I find it invaluable for "demolition" of vehicles your cutting up for scrap!--sheet metal is quicky cut away from body bolts,and sheet metal screws with boogered heads are no problem..just use "Thor's Hammer" and they go away FAST!.. :haha: :D :crazy:

Of course,a torch works nicely too,but oxogen is expensive,and cant be bought here on weekends(place is closed sat and sun!) :mad: ..so brute force prevails where torches have failed!.. :crazy:
 
Big Air hammer. Takes like 10 seconds or less per rivet. Then I change bits to a punch and use the air hammer to punch them out. Don't buy a cheap one they suck. Buy a "long barrel" hammer and then you too will laugh at frame rivets :D
 
In the wrecking yard? Small drill bit through the rivet, then cold chisel to break the head off.
 
diesel4me said:
I used to use a "masons" chisel with a 5lb hammer to chop rivets off frame brackets...until I saw a guy at the junkyard use a all steel camping hatchet and a hammer!--he put the hatchet between the bracket and the frame,and gave it 3 or 4 good whacks,and the rivets sheared right off,the brackets were not damaged hardly at all(nothing bolting them to another frame would not fix anyway)..
I was amazed how good it worked!--I'd wear a face sheild if you try this at home!..one reason it works well is because the handle of the hatchet keeps your hand out of the line of fire,and your not scared to give a good blow with the 5lb hammer!.. :rolleyes:

I took this idea one step higher!--I had an old logspilitting wedge that had an "eye" in the center for a handle,like a hammer head does--I welded a peice of pipe to it 18" long for a handle,and I hit it with a 5lb ball pein or sledge hammer HARD and it only takes one or two whacks to shear the rivets!--If you use it like an AX its pretty effective too--I find it invaluable for "demolition" of vehicles your cutting up for scrap!--sheet metal is quicky cut away from body bolts,and sheet metal screws with boogered heads are no problem..just use "Thor's Hammer" and they go away FAST!.. :haha: :D :crazy:

Of course,a torch works nicely too,but oxogen is expensive,and cant be bought here on weekends(place is closed sat and sun!) :mad: ..so brute force prevails where torches have failed!.. :crazy:
Click to expand...

:haha: :bow:
 
Tried the chisel and hammer thingy. it broke me off trying to get 48 rivets out. Then I tried drilling through then whacking the head of the rivet off. Then with th e grinder and drill and hammer. A little easier, but still time consuming and tireing. Then the air hammer and WOWEE. Hardly any time and little physical effort.
 
A few years back I posted pics of my frame that had every rivet removed. In order to do so, I used a 7" grinder (to grind the head of the rivets followed by a hammer and punch to punch it through). If the 7" grinder didn't work, I would use a 4" grinder, if that didn't work (space constraints) I would used stepped drill bits, and if that didn't work, I used a combination of things and air chisel. No one method will work for all rivets due to location and space constraints.

Just be safe in whatever method you choose.
 
blownout said:
u need a big bore gun a nd some blow to get them there bolts out .
Click to expand...
posted at 2:06 am.... gee i wonder what this guy was doing.... :surepal: :surepal: :surepal:

ever notice how every coke/crack fiend says you need some blow/rock to get anything accomplished?? :haha:
 
Air hammer w/ chisel bit, and a punch bit after the head's chiseled off.

The grinder method works good, but the air tool is 10X faster

-Mike
 
Torch and only when I don't want to keep the bracket that is coming off. Put the flame on the bracket side rather than the frame side and let the bracket shield the frame. If you need to keep the bracket you can still do it with a torch, just don't hit the high pressure. Just let the heat wash it off.

My most favorite method isn't in your poll.

Gouging tip on the plas!!
 
nvrenuf said:
x3 :grind:
Click to expand...

x4.

i tried it with a cheapass harbor freight air chisel, and it was more trouble than it was worth.

grind the head off
hit the bracket sideways a couple of times to break it loose
pull the bracket off
use a BFH to push the rivets out
never takes me longer than a few minutes, but, my truck is "only" 14 years old.
 
I had an old logspilitting wedge that had an "eye" in the center for a handle
Click to expand...

Just in case you were curious, that is called a maul and is a must in my book for splitting firewood :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom