What should I do for a motor?? ~PCV fixed, now what?~

[NEK5]

I'm in pretty much the same quandry. I've done the math and the homework, and the crate motor from the gm dealer is, in my opinion, the best deal going!

If you rebuild the motor, once you get the rebuild kit, get all the machine work done, and replace any components (especially considering you want a bit of a performer), you are w/in a couple of bucks from the crate! You may be able to save some money and go to the boneyard and pick up a used motor. Fast forward one year, crap, should i rebuild, or buy a crate motor!?!? You can't beat having a warranty of 50k on a motor you are putting in a toy!!!

care to explain?I haven`t done much research.....

This motor will be going infront of a built 700, which is why I want more power, but as previously stated, not so much where i gotta started getting chips burnt, etc...

 

[Col_Sanders]

Well, I`m looking for something that has more power over stock, but not so much that i have to get a new chip burnt up. It has to be an 87+ motor so I can use my tbi stuff on it, and still be able to run on pump gas. Any recomendations??

If you buy anything in Edelbrock's Performer line for TBI engines, they will send you a new burned chip. I have their whole Performer package with cam, intake, and heads. The heads run about $1k, cam around 180 and the intake was 200 i think. They work well together and lots of torque. TrickFlow has some good heads too I believe I would have more hp if I had those heads but didnt know about them until it was too late. I wanted to keep it all one brand anyway because I figured they were all meant to work together for best performance.

Installing the chip is very easy...only a few screws and it was free!

 

[NEK5]

I`m also looking to spend no more than $1500-$1600....

 

[roadnotca]

Have you had any warranty problems yet?

Nope. Its a DD with OffRoad Trails when I get a chance. I probably have <10K miles so far. The Specs on my build are in '36 to present Burb, Burb build-up (line 1).

 

[Chevy305]

In the coming months I'm going to have all sorts of "extra" engines that I'll be looking to get rid of:

350SBC - The solid runner from the '72 Burb, fresh valve job, aluminum intake and HEI dizzy.
396BBC - The motor currently sitting in the '72 K5. Completely rebuilt but still has a lifter tick from time to time. Aluminum intake, MSD ProBillet dizzy, Thorley headers.
396BBC - The motor from the C60 Moving van. Runs like a jewel, so I pulled it before junking the truck. Complete with all accessories, iron intake (2BBL) and HEI dizzy.
454BBC - In pieces. This one is a project. Hydrolocked marine motor...Block will need machining, needs rods/pistons (crank can probably be re-used), heads are already freshened up.

It happens so slowly.....then next thing you know, I've got a garage full of "stuff"!!!!

so, uh let me know when the 396s are ready

 

[beater_k20]

Well, I`m looking for something that has more power over stock, but not so much that i have to get a new chip burnt up....Any recomendations??

if you dont want to tune it, dont mess with it at all. even a factory stock engine can really benefit from a good tune. they're ballpark tuned from the factory, but one engine may like something totally different than another. why put money into an engine if you're not going to retune it to see its full potential? seems like a pretty big waste of money to me.

as far as it having to be an 87+ engine "so you can put your TBI stuff on it", oval out the 2 holes in the center of your intake if you want to use pre86 heads, it'll work just fine, i know TONS of people that have done it. i think someone even makes a jig to drill the holes at the proper 72* angle, although i cant remember who.

 

[beater_k20]

I`m also looking to spend no more than $1500-$1600....

then you're screwed if you want a proper running engine, anything other than stock. even a stock rebuild will be REALLY pushing it.

 

[baldamish]

Call a machine shop and see what they will charge you for the following
1. acid dip of the heads and block
2. replace freeze plugs and cam bearings
3. hone the cylinders
4. machine the crank
5. grind and reseat the valves
6. possibly bore the cylinders (that will increase how much your rebuild kit will cost you)
anybody feel free to help me out if i'm forgetting something.

Go to summit.com or jegs.com and price a rebuild kit, you'll need to figure if you are going to bore the cylinders and how much you will over bore. That will change the amount of the kit because you will need to buy new pistons.
Now keep in mind you really should replace the oil pump (if it doesn't come with the rebuild kit), cam and lifters.Hmmmm, seems like i'm forgetting something.
Now go here http://www.crateenginedepot.com/store/350-Crate-Engine-290-HP-HO-12499529-P824C53.aspx may be even cheaper from a gm dealership!!!

 

[NEK5]

How much am I likely to spend then beater? am I going to have to get a new chip burnt up no matter what i do??? I need guidance fellas come on now

 

[beater_k20]

the sky is the limit really. check with your local rebuilder, and see what they'll charge to rebuild your existing engine. prices can vary greatly by location. if you want to maintain any sort of real drivability, you're going to have to look into having the truck tuned by a professional, since i'm guessing the reason for not wanting to burn a new chip is due to your lack of knowledge and equipment for said process. make a few phone calls and see what the locals say, that's by far your best bet, because when something goes wrong, you can drag it across town and bitch at someone face to face about it, rather than hashing it out over the phone then shipping a 600# engine clear across the country.

 

[NEK5]

the sky is the limit really. check with your local rebuilder, and see what they'll charge to rebuild your existing engine. prices can vary greatly by location. if you want to maintain any sort of real drivability, you're going to have to look into having the truck tuned by a professional, since i'm guessing the reason for not wanting to burn a new chip is due to your lack of knowledge and equipment for said process. make a few phone calls and see what the locals say, that's by far your best bet, because when something goes wrong, you can drag it across town and bitch at someone face to face about it, rather than hashing it out over the phone then shipping a 600# engine clear across the country.

will do, but i may also look for a low mileage stock motor..maybe one with under 50k..is that asking for something, or is that alright to do?

I saw an ad in the want ads last week for a 350 out of an 89 blazer, had only 40k on it..and i think they wanted $400?...so I know the deals are out there, and its possible to find one...but whats better for me to do, get a good running motor, with low mileage...or a crate?

 

[beater_k20]

honestly, if you're considering a low milage used engine, i would avoid private sellers. check out your local salvage yards. i have bought several drivetrain components from different yards without issue. they generally have a guarantee on them, where the private seller is an as is deal. i would definitely ask to hear the engine run before spending a penny, also take a good look at the condition of the fluids. also, make sure oil pressure is acceptable.

 

[bowtiepower00]

For value, it's hard to beat a GM universal crate 350. With a cam swap, you should see some good gains. Car craft (or one of those car mags) beat on one in a variety of different configurations including nitrous until it blew. They are a pretty tough little engine, and the CR works out just about right for a low octane street motor, just under 9:1 stock, IIRC, and that's with 76cc chambers, so you can run 64CC chambers with an aftermarket head if you want to bump the compression down the road. Many local dealers can bring the engine in for a decent price. Head and cam swaps are harder to mess up than a bottom end build. If you have an experienced engine builder to give you a hand, you could probably build a more powerful engine for a bit less, but if you screw it up and damage anything you may wish you'd got a crate. There are a lot of engine builders/ machine shops out there, if you do some local research (ask some circle track or other type of racer, or post in the regional forums) you may be able to find someone local to do as much or as little as you want them to, from a short block to a full install. Engines can be very expensive, and you get what you pay for. If you build one or have one built, I'd put a cast stroker crank in it and some decent rods. You can always put better heads on later, but once your bottom end is built you're stuck with it.

 

[Greg72]

I don't know if he'll ship it.....but here's a complete '87 TPI motor being sold be a friend of mine in NorCal.....


http://www.norcalbigdawgs.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9927&highlight=

 

[NEK5]

Do you guys think I should just do a compression test on my current motor?? If it comes out good, is it safe to put new heads/intake on it? or is rebuilding just the top end a bad idea?

 

[NEK5]

I was talking to my friends dad last night, and I was trying to describe the "knock" or what ever it is. He said, just as most of you did, that it could be from a number of things. He said I should check my timing, and that it could be done by pulling the dizzy cap, then spin the belt, and watch the rotor...Are there any other ways it can be done?

Hopefully I can pin point all the problems, and do as much as I can so I can continue using my current motor...

 

[bowtiepower00]

Have you isolated the location of the knock? How loud is it? It could be as simple as a valve adjustment. Older Toyota 22R engines sound like diesels after the valves go out of adjustment. Grab a long screwdriver or mechanic's stethescope and see if you can locate the noise, be careful to keep away from any moving parts. A compression check could be done too, to see what kind of shape your current motor is in. An experienced mechanic may be able to identify the noise just by hearing it. IMO, If you are unable to find/ identify an engine noise, you should probably avoid rebuilding a motor. About used engines, I know as many people who have gotten junk motors as those who've gotten good ones. I wouldn't buy used with the intent of running it as-is unless I saw the engine run in the vehicle it was in, and checked it out before it was pulled.

 

[Chevy305]

ya it could be lifter out ov adjustment, or maybe even an exhaust leak for all we know.

 

[bowtiepower00]

Agreed, if it's the engine I'd say it's more likely valvetrain than anything. Lots of other things that make knocking noises, could be drivetrain or exhaust, or accessory drive.

 

[NEK5]

Well, I actually thought it was coming from the tranny, but my buddy thinks its coming from the motor. It almost sounds like its coming from underneath me, to the right, which would be the tranny hump...Although it hasn`t made the noise in a week or so, and I think I`d really need to hear it again in order to describe it.

So i think I`m not going to go any further until a compression test is done.

Is it possible that it burns some oil because of the heads? Could the valve seals be so bad they just let oil blow by alot? Or could I have a warped valve guide? could that cause oil to blow by?