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What the H-E-Double Hockey Sticks?

J

jeroundt

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I just bought a parts blazer so I can steal the 14 bolt axles from it, and the suspension lift kit. The front of the blazer is done right. The rear of the blazer however has me scratching my head :confused:. It has 6" shackles (not flipped though) on the stock shackle mounts, 56" leaf springs(might be 2-4" lift leaf springs), and 4" blocks. The blazer sits just fine and clears 37" tires with a lot of clearance. I have spent all day looking for something set up similarly to this blazer, but can't find anything. Is this completly bass-ackwards? Will this work? Is there some benifit to lifting the blazer like this in the rear? Any info would be great. I will post pics later tonight.
 
off road design has done a few reg lift springs with longer shackles in the rear to get move flex . not sure why over the flip but ? ? ? who knows.

and thay prob just ordered the wrong lift and made it work with the stuff thay had.
 
Did a 56 swap and needed more lift with the blocks.Seems that the 6in shackles were to lower it a tad. I say Bass Ackwards
 
Sorry this thread is kinda worthless without pics:rolleyes:. Here are a few that I snapped with my phone after work. It gives you the basic idea of what I was trying to describe. I will take better ones with the camera tomorrow when I start to take it all apart:woot:.
shackle3.jpg


shackle2.jpg


shackle1.jpg
 
Here is a picture of my project blazer and the doner blazer. And so it begins.............................................................

blazeronblocks.jpg


donerblazer.jpg
 
that is kinda crazy
stock hanger with 56s, blocks, and 6" shackles
at least you can get a shackle flip kit and have some good shackles for a 56 install, just done correctly

I could swear those rear springs have TWO overload springs. One just being bent up. I can't see it flexing much, never mind the rough ride. I'd remove both of those bottom leafs and use the longer springs for a nice 56 set up.
 
actualy its a add a leaf for the second overload. comon add on in kits.

and thay make the ride MUCH HARDER also. remove the add a leaf for better ride.

and those are lowrider drop shackles used in the back . thay are o.k. but some guys off raod have bent them up.

and you do know thats a semi float 14 bolt / corp 10 bolt front just incase you didnt.
 
1BEATK5 said:
i bet that they needed those goofy shackles to keep the springs off of the shackle bucket.
Click to expand...
that setup is crazy.it doesnt even sit over the bumpstops correctly.you could probably use it just fine.just need the correct flip brackets and you could have a pretty flexy 10 inch lift or less if you get shorter shackles.your black truck looks in pretty good shape.and the hurricane rims are a sweet addition as well.
 
sweetk30 said:
and you do know thats a semi float 14 bolt / corp 10 bolt front just incase you didnt.
Click to expand...

I know that the rear is a 14 bolt semi float. But the front has 14 bolts in the diff cover. I thought that it was a 14 bolt semi float as well. I don't know much about axles though. Ill post some better pictures later on.
 
Holy crap, what kind of tires are those? Remind me of old Triple Tracs.
 
jeroundt said:
But the front has 14 bolts in the diff cover. I thought that it was a 14 bolt semi float as well. I don't know much about axles though. Ill post some better pictures later on.
Click to expand...

Please do... let's just say that the factory never offered either, so there is much discussion of the "rare lesser spotted 14 (or 12) bolt front axle" :haha:

-- A
 
The longer shackle is probably because the spring mounts weren't moved and the spring is too long to fit in the stock shackle. It looks like a shock shackle would be all the way leaned back, with the spring pretty much resting on it.
 
chevydan3 said:
The longer shackle is probably because the spring mounts weren't moved and the spring is too long to fit in the stock shackle. It looks like a shock shackle would be all the way leaned back, with the spring pretty much resting on it.
Click to expand...

Just what I was going to say.

To the OP, recount the bolts on the front diff cover. Unless it's something weird or custom I don't know of any front diffs with 14 bolts.

And FYI - basically all front axles are full floaters.
 
Well I feel like the brightest star in the sky right now :doah:! It is a 10 bolt. Typical newbie. Lol. So the rear is a 14bsf and the front is a 10 bolt. Now that we have that straight:haha:, is the 10 bolt with the 8 lug axles going to be better than my current 10 bolt 6 lug axles? I would assume that it would be, but then again we are taling about ME :D. I made a lot of progress today. I got all of the engine electrical connections off and labeled today. I removed the exhaust system from the manifolds back. I removed the carb and all the emission crap. I got the front end disconnected (leafs, drive shaft, sway bar, steering, shocks, and breaks):woot:. The axle is still under the truck, but I didn't have any help to drag it out so it will have to wait till this weekend. Sorry again for the dumb a$$ statements, and thanks for all the responses.:waytogo:
 
jeroundt said:
is the 10 bolt with the 8 lug axles going to be better than my current 10 bolt 6 lug axles?
Click to expand...

Short answer: In and of itself, no. The two 10-bolts are identical in terms of strength (*).

Long answer: The two axles will be the same from the spindles in; only the wheel hubs, rotors, calipers, and brake mounting stuff are different.

Now, the 8-lug axle is more likely to have lower (numerically higher) gearing, i.e. a 6-lug truck will often have 3.73:1 versus an 8-lug truck might have 4.10:1. All else being equal, then, pick the one with the gear ratio you want and use it as a base. Then go with the hubs you want (presumably 8-lug to match the rear) and use the outers to go with.

(*) Later 10-bolts had different spline counts on the inner shafts; they were 28-spline, IIRC, through 1988 or 1989 or thereabouts, and then went to 30-spline. Doesn't materially change the strength but does make for parts incompatibility.

Point being that IF the axles are both from the same time, you're okay, but if they are different, you can't mix and match the insides. (The brakes & outers are the same across the board.)

Assuming they ARE different, hang on to the spare set of shafts as they do break and it's prolly less work to swap shafts on the side of the trail as it is to "just" replace a snapped U-joint.

-- A
 
6lug to 8 lug 3/4 ton front = 1" bigger brake rotors and bigger caliper pistions if still true 3/4 ton jb7 calipers.

reason i say is 1/2 ton calipers fit 3/4 ton no problems.

6 lug = 7/16 tiny studs

8 lug = 9/16 BIG studs .
 
The 30 spline 10 bolts appeared in '88 and were fully implemented in '89.

The 30 spline inners are a bit stronger than the 28 spline. Do have carrier issues though...but not much worse than all 10 bolt carriers.
 
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