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what the heck...

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Does your speedo work?

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yes and I have the same issues, it doesn't stall at lights but it idles low and kind of bogs alittle unless its in nuteral or park. My guess was a Torque converter issue, but it could be vaccum because my cruise control doesn't work (which I think is also a vaccum problem because the wipers work on turn signal but not the cruise.)
 
also...it only does this when its been running awhile (about 5 mins to 'warm up') doesn't stall when cold. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif PM sent about unpluggin the trans, never knew one could do that...
 
I had the same problem with my 90 K5 and after replacing all my ignition (distributor, coil, wires) IAC, TPS, Map sensor, nothing helped. Then I started getting a code 43, replaced the knock sensor and it fixed the problem. The knock sensor was going bad and at idle it was causing the computer to retard the timing. Just my .02.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
That's what I like to see, brother!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

A first post that is used to help a guy instead of asking a question.........Good job, Michael!!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
 
No, I didn't get the code at first, and the it was only $30 for the knock sensor (after spending $400 on ignition stuff). I talked to a local 4X4 shop and they were the one's that told me it was the disributor. A easy way to check if it's timing related is when it starts loping at idle disconnect the brown/tan and white wire that you disconnect to set the base timing and if idles right then it has to do with the computer timing. caution: it wont run very well above 2000 rpm with this disconected.
 
funny. I just talked to a good friend...he tells me my timing is screwed. He doesn't think its tranny related at all...but will rule it out. I'll disconnect that friggin brown/black striped wire and see how she goes. I'll keep ya posted.
 
I had the same problem with my 88k5. It was the EGR valve.

Even if the valve appears to be moving freely carbon buildup in the valve prevents it from closing all the way.

Try removing the valve and cleaning it out, if that doesn't work teporaraly install a block-off plate. If the problem goes away you know you need a new valve.

BTW, if you are running the stock ECU make sure you put the valve back. I know it's tempting not too:)
 
I believe there is also a brake control switch that unlocks the converter when you come to a complete stop. This may also explain your cruise control problem...can anyone verify???
 
Failed TCC is typically evidenced by stalling after the vehicle has warmed up, usually after a freeway cruise, then coming to a light.

As was suggested previously, unplug the connector on the trans, and take it for a drive again. If problem is gone, you need to replace the TCC. (actually its the torque converter clutch solenoid that goes bad)
 
I only read the first part of your post, but, have you checked the fuel filter? I would check the easy stuff first . /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifgood luck,Jake* /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
OK for review, this is what I have done: replaced the following...fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, TPS, MAP, Temp sensor, Ignition Module. I unplugged the brown/black striped wire ya disconnect to adjust timing to come home for lunch, she didn't stall!! Knock sensor next?? or do ya think its somethin else?
 
Like I said earlier, if it doesn't stall with that brown/black wire disconnected it has to do with the computer timing and on my truck the knock sensor was the problem. It's easy to replace (it's right in front of the starter in the block) and fairly cheap ($30). You can also check the egr valve and clean it, I've had that problem on a old baby Blazer (S10 4.3L) and it would idle bad (like it was running on 4 cyl.) and stall even when cold, but with the knock sensor it was only when the truck warmed up and the idle would surge and stall.
 
ok! off to the store i go...gonna double check the timing and drop in that knock sensor (they better have it!)
 
On a positive note, it takes longer before it stalls itself out....but it still stalls /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Ok....I'm officially annoyed now! Put in the $40 knock sensor, reset the timing (was off a lil bit). For whats its worth that knock snsor looked like a bag of crap...all rusty and the rubber seal was all cracked and nasty. Thanks for the suggestion though...back to the drawing board.
 
no other ideas? Aside from the EGR?? but think if it were vaccum related it would stall with that wire disconnected..
 
Have you checked all the wires going to the sensors thouroghly??.Many times the sensors get blamed when its a corroded or broken wire that is causing the problem--my friend at his repair shop is often quick to blame sensors,then after 2 hours of searching he often finds a bad wire--since the sensors only deal with very low voltage,it doesnt take much corrosion to cause a false reading.Have you done a pressure test on the fuel pump??.Could be the injectors not spraying right too,and make sure the wires going to them arent all crushed,they often get pinched between the air cleaner base and the air horn on the injectors.I havent dealt too much with EFI,only what I oversee my friend working on,but those are the main things he usually finds wrong on many of the GM's he works on(a lot of EGR valve problems seem to be a common dilema on later model GM's,sometimes they either open when they shouldnt,or stick open just enough to make it idle poorly)--I hope you can figure it out--hope I might have helped you-. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
thanks...i'll check out all the wiring again tomorrow...think the injectors wires are crushed a bit, but never thought twice about it...but still doesn't explain the running great with the tan wire disconnected, crappy with.
 
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