What thermostat should I use?

[rjfguitar]

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You talk like I'm not here. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Talk mechanical gauges all you want, it has been proven time and again mechanical and electric are just as accurate. They damn sure do go bad. Anything will fail with time, and gauges do not hold their accuracy no matter what they are.

How do you know your mech gauge is accurate? Ever looked at the aisle with all the outdoor thermometers on it and noticed the slight to large variation among most of them?

Comparing a 20+ year old gauge to a new one is ridiculous and you know it. So is throwing parts at problems instead of diagnosis.

[/ QUOTE ]
Dorian your a good guy. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I don't expect the 18 year old electric guage to be as accurate as a new one either, thats why I bought a mech. guage. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I was just pointing out that for $19 he could get the actuall temp of the motor that is probably 95% accurate. Once he got it installed and relized that indeed the factory guage was right on then no big deal, for a measly $19 he knows that the elect. guage is not the prob and he has still gained the dependacy of a simple mech. guage. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[4xcrazy]

You had the radiator cleaned out and flow checked, but how many rows is in it? With it bored out, a mild cam and new comp chip, it is most likely going to run alittle hotter, the thing i am wondering, and have had this problem too many times in the past, you keep saying your temp rises when your unler load or driving at high speeds, this tells me that there is not enough water flow through the system, no matter what the gauge says, even if it's right on, you should really not get that much of a difference unless your towing like 10,000lbs of crap behind you.

I am still willing to bet, your peoblem is with your radiator, and no, your ac condensor and coolers are not restricting air flow, they may be warming the air alittle bit, but where you are it really should not matter, now here in Arizona with the desert heat, you will definately notice a temp change.

My radiator is in need of replacement, how do i know? because it does the SAME EXACT THING as yours is doing, but mine is original. Needs serious help, take another look at that radiator, see how many rows are in it and let me know. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

BTW, as far as the new fan goes, the fan is ONLY used when at speeds under like 25 or at idle, thats the only time where your fan will work to keep air flowing over the radiator, thats why it;s clutched, to release when driving faster.

 

[scoutillac]

It is the factory 3 row rad. and still the 190 stat. I have debated a 180 stat. I have a gauge at home I can hook up. I think I will compare the two guages. So will a 4 row rad make that big of a difference? I am sure I could get one reasonably cheap. This whole mess makes me wonder what my scout is going to do when I get it running. I just put a stock 91 Blazer 350/700R4/3 row rad and all the factory wiring in it. The engine compartment is much smaller in the scout. I wonder if that will hold more heat in or direct more air over the motor. The air flow through the grill should be more than ample. But that is another topic for later conversation.

 

[dyeager535]

Forget the 180 stat. If the engine exceeds the 190 stats temp, then something else is going on. The stat could be bad I guess, did you try swapping or pulling it? (some vehicles respond by running ice cold when you pull the stat, some get hot)

I would have to agree though, it seems likely the radiator, as long as you are pulling/moving enough air through a good radiator, it should not overheat.

 

[4xcrazy]

Double check that t-stat, it very well could be stuck partially open, my other truck had a cold running problem during the winter here, although not very cold, the truck would not even heat up enough for the heater to work right, but in hotter temps, it will actually make it run hotter, not allowing the water to "stay" in the radiator long enough for it to cool down.

Double check it, worth a shot, cheap too.

 

[Triaged]

Just currious if you used teflon tape on the temp sender?

They are suposed to be installed bare to have a good ground.

 

[scoutillac]

I think I did. I'll have to look now. But with a bad ground wouldn't you get virtually no reading? I'm no electrical wiz, but if you have high resistance(teflon blocking path) then not enough current is getting through to create the desired effect(accurate temp reading) right?

 

[Triaged]

I think most temp senders are low resistance at low temp and high resistance at high temp...not sure on that though. You can design a gage to work either way but I can't think of anything that would have less resistance with more heat. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif