what timing chain

[S. Burnham]

the last time I posted on this sight i had to explain how stupid i was for buying parts that i should not have. I bought a cam that was too big for crawlin or muddin. I am going to be running a 383 with roller set up and tbi. I have found a factory 97 vortec cam that i am going to be using now. I don't know what year timing chain i need to use. I have been told that i will have to use the 97 chain. i also have been told that the older flat tappit cam chain will work. any input on this will appreciated.

 

[neverendingproject]

Just search on summitracing.com and look up a timing chain for a 97 pickup with a 350. Thats what I did for my 383.

 

[S. Burnham]

what engine came in the truck. gen I, II, or III. LS or LT.

 

[xpndbl3]

why limit yourself to such a small cam? that factory cam is worthless in my opinion compared to aftermarket.

 

[neverendingproject]

This is the one I used. clicky

 

[S. Burnham]

I am building a motor for my 88 GMC k5 Jimmy. I am building a 383 with 6.0 inch rods and 383 hypertec flat tops, stock tbi heads( I plan on upgrading later just can't afford any right now), 270 adv. dur. cam with .495 int. lift/dur @ .050 .218 degrees- .502 ext.lift/dur @ .050 .224- lobe speration is going to be 108. this is a hydrolic roller cam. I want to keep my TBI but i need a chip to run with this setup. I would like to have the egr removed from the computer because it is no longer on the engine. From my understanding the egr will make the engine run lean at normal crusing speed. I will be using headers as well so do the O2 sensors need be removed to be an open loop system like a marine engine, or would it perform better with O2 sensors? I had one guy tell me that the tbi want run at all with that lobe seperation because of vacuum, and he could not burn a chip for it. Another guy said that he can't burn a chip for my application through the mail. I know I can't be the only person that has built an engine with this set up. If it had to be ran like a marine engine that does not use a map sensor or O2 sensors that would be fine. I want the throttle body for crawling where a carb will fail. Can any one help me on this matter. Thanks for any info on this, it is hard to find anyone who knows anything about fuel ingection. I feel like their is some one on this site that has tackled this before me.


this was my first post on this issue. I have decided due to cost that i can not afford to buy another cam. so i am putting a factory cam in it that i getting from a friend

 

[S. Burnham]

thanks for the timing kit info. i will be ordering one tomorrow.

 

[xpndbl3]

that cam doesn't sound very EFI friendly at all. but you could look into a tighter lobe seperation from comp or crane, etc. that would be a fuel injection cam, that sounds like a great higher RPM carb based cam for 1500-6000 rpm or so. Plus i don't think factory heads will allow that much lift without machining the valve guides anyways for that kind of lift. If you're keeping factory heads, then that factory cam should be fine, but you're leaving a lot on the table that could be built up.

 

[S. Burnham]

pioneer makes a set of springs that will work without machining. I ment to get the part # because iI have had several people say the same thing. but since i am not using the cam i did not purchase them. I did find a guy that builds marine engines that said he could build a chip for that cam and engine comb. But it is just to much for a daily driver. I will be modifieng the engine later on when I get my other truck together for daily use. probably vortec heads with a better low end rv or towing cam.

 

[dyeager535]

Peronsally I think the Gen1 Vortec engines rock. (for what they are)

Put stock Vortec heads on your block with a Vortec cam, you've essentially got a Vortec engine short of the CPI setup.

If you plan on cam "upgrades" later on, forget Vortecs, they add more cost down the road, and paying up front for better heads is the easiest approach, and not really more costly figuring the parts you'll get with aftermarket heads.

FWIW, EGR just allows the engine to use less fuel. It only works when you don't need the additional fuel to prevent engine problems (cruise) so it hurts absolutely nothing. BUT you do have to be careful with engine size and fueling in general, so you'd want to be a bit careful with it on a modified engine and stock calibration. Might be fine, might not, but just like the stock calibration of the PROM (for one) being wrong for a 383 enough to cause real damage, I wouldn't want to take chances.