What to buy for new 60?

[Txchevy18]

OK guys im fixin to make the leap to 1 tons. Im goin to pick up my dana60 this weekend, but its gonna need some work. Its a from an 82 chevy dually and is guted inside, the previous guy was usin it as a sfa and didnt need 4x4.

So now I need to start gettin some parts together for the rebuild, but have a few questions 1st. Its going into a 86 k20 ,400hp 350/clocked 208 running 40" tsl's but eventualy 42's or 44's. I want to run chromo axles and possibly ctms and some kind of a locker since i have to buy a carrier newayz. Its a dd for now ill be running warn premium hubs and probally 4.56's so I dont have to regear the 14 bolt FF.

Any suggestions as to what brands of shafts to run?
Are the ctms worth the coin or should i just stick w/ "lifetime joints"?
What locker?

Thanx guys

 

[colbystephens]

don't forget about the issue w/ the wheels if you've already got wheels to fit your non-dually 14bt.

 

[1976Blazer76]

Can't go wrong with running a detroit. Also with those tires I'd look into hydro assist steering too.

 

[Txchevy18]

Ive already got a sky x-over setup and a hydro setup w/ a rock logic 1.5x8 ram and a 4x4 steering box tapped w/ a 2x4 sector shaft and wfo lines, bought it before i even had a 60. Im still stuck as to wether run h1's on my 40's or get new srw hubs from gm for $350 w/ rotors. I was thinkin a arb locker but have had very good luck w/ detriot as well. Just never ran one up front.

thanx keep it comming guys

 

[1976Blazer76]

Ive already got a sky x-over setup and a hydro setup w/ a rock logic 1.5x8 ram and a 4x4 steering box tapped w/ a 2x4 sector shaft and wfo lines, bought it before i even had a 60. Im still stuck as to wether run h1's on my 40's or get new srw hubs from gm for $350 w/ rotors. I was thinkin a arb locker but have had very good luck w/ detriot as well. Just never ran one up front.

thanx keep it comming guys

I've got the h1's, they look awesome, and ended up real close to stock width!

 

[gmc4cw]

the new hubs are gonna have new rotors, studs, and races also. $350 is a good price. I work at a dealership and got mine for $320. If you are gonna run selectable locker, look into flanges/slugs instead of selectable hubs. they are a lot cheaper, harder to break, don't stick out as far. you probably already have them in the dually hubs now.

I'm wheeling 44's on my 60 and haven't broken a stock shaft or u joint yet. I know its coming, but why spend a ton of money until I have to.

 

[Txchevy18]

Ya im kinda wondering on my abilty to break a factory shaft too but, since i have to buy them anywayz y not save a lil more and buy the better parts and make it bulett proof. The reason i am considering slecteable hubs is so when using it as a dd i dont have the wear and tear of the rest of the parts moving contiuosly as well as less parts moving mean less drag on driveterrain and better mpg ( this is just an asumtion correct me if i am wrong). I drive on average 200 miles a week so this wont be my dd for long, just until i get the cash for a dodge 2500.

keep coming guys

 

[gmc4cw]

yeah if you don't have anything now then get the good stuff. with slugs the axleshafts will spin. I couldn't even begin to geuss how much effect that has on fuel economy. I'm spoiled my ride to work is 2 miles. MPG is not a priority for me. You actually drive less then most people. the national average is 300 a week. wow is that is getting of subject.

 

[Txchevy18]

Alright any guys any suggestons on what brand of shafts to run or are they all about equal?

Thanx keep the comments coming

 

[sandawgk5]

I say you should run superiors and go 35 spline inner and outer. You are already running hydro so I would run slugs rather than hubs and also a Detroit. I say superiors as they are through hardened and induction hardend. Also with alloy shafts CTMs are the only way to go. If you break a joint you will most likely take the ears of the shaft out also. Not good when you are looking at $400 per side..

Superior shafts, CTMs, Detroit, and Drive slugs all 35 spline.

Ira