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what to do with a dana 60 paint/powder coat ect

FatHarryPotter

FatHarryPotter

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i am currently rebuild a dana 60 out of a 81 chevy. it looks like hell and i was wondering what was the consenus on what type of coating to use on it? i was thinking about powder coating it because of simpleness as they can clean it up also. any suggestions? i wanna do it while it is apart and out of my blazer


Robert
 
walmart rattle can black if its going in a trail truck. i prefer the hammertone stuff myslef but to each his own, no sence in putting alot of money into a paint job that will get rubed off
 
if you want it nice, have it dipped clean then i like to use engine paint. lays down pretty good and can just shoot it again quickly for any touch ups.
 
how much would it cost to powder that thing. you can do it at home if you have a big enough oven. can't touch it up, can't bake the bearings, if you wanna weld on it you have to grind it off and it's tough stuff.....can't touch it up. nice for bike parts though :D.........i'm gonna look into marine type paint when i do the front axle, i'll bet they have some good shyt too.....engine paint, hmm.
 
IMHO, powder coating is for show trucks or no budget builds - too expensive.

I like to use rustoleum pro in a gun. Cheap and easy to touch up. Once you get out on the trail it will get trashed either way. My 60 doesnt have any paint on the bottom side anymore and I haven't bothered to paint the 70HD yet, but it has rock rash all over already.
 
rustoleum :thumb:

rustoleum :waytogo:

rustoleum :bow:

bare steel and no primer just paint .

holds up just fine over the years on my snow plow. :popcorn:
 
Use POR-15! looks almost like powder coat when it dries and you can do in your driveway, very chip resistant and flexible. It actually grabs better on "seasoned" metal so if your axle is rusty brown with good texture it will be very hard to get POR-15 off once it dries, and it creates a 100% moisture seal to the metal.

I did my rear axle on my 71 pontiact..I think I've got pics...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/831392/6
well...not too good a pic..but if you scroll down to the third pic you can see it on my old axle that I painted with POR15 when it was still under the car. With it out from under the vehicle (like when I painted the new one) you can get it even better.

Here you can see POR15 on my control arms
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/831392/4

Here you can see it under the car on the floor pans(kind of glossy cuz it is self-leveling)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/831392/5

I'm a big fan you can do it in your drive way it is way tougher and thicker than paint and looks great.
 
I was going to have mine powdercoated but decided to just paint for the fact you cann't weld or touch up powdercoat. Prep them good and a good paint with hardener will hold up.
 
I used POR15 on mine , but only because a friend had some left from painting his frame , seems to hold up pretty good, but I'm not constantly dragging it over rocks.
Painted my rear 14BFF with rattle can Rustoleum from Walyworld & it looks just as good & easier to touch up if needed.
 
Yeah, on the touch up I'd have to agree that rattle can flat black would be nice and quick. If touch up is that easy no need to worry about chip resistance. Of course you'd have to be sure to clean it really well each time.

Also POR15 is "chip" resistant, and very tough...but not drag over rock resistant:rolleyes:
 
My brother powder coated an axle once when he had access to the equipment through an employer. When baking, axle grease boiled? out of the axle tube/center section joints and if I remember correctly a few of the spot welds also weeped a little bit. Pretty much ruined the finish as that grease then ran down the axle tubes.

Not sure how you'd get all the grease out of places like that. Maybe you don't. Probably easier to weld it all up and be done with it.

Still expensive.
 
cybrfire said:
My brother powder coated an axle once when he had access to the equipment through an employer. When baking, axle grease boiled? out of the axle tube/center section joints and if I remember correctly a few of the spot welds also weeped a little bit. Pretty much ruined the finish as that grease then ran down the axle tubes.

Not sure how you'd get all the grease out of places like that. Maybe you don't. Probably easier to weld it all up and be done with it.

Still expensive.
Click to expand...

My axles were sand blasted and then powder coated (see link to build in sig)

I also had access to equipment through employer / buddy. It was a royal pain - the guy that set up my gears cursed my name for the amount of sand that he had to flush out. :D

They do look awesome though:woot: - but forget ever being able to modify/weld on the axle again. Once you "break" the seal on powder coat, the rust will begin propogating under the powder unless you have used a special undercoating (zinc phosphate or e-coat, etc...)
 
I wire wheeled all of the rust / oil grime (there was a lot of this due to leaking axle seals) on my d60 and 14 bolt) then hit with an air hose and shot of brake cleaner to get residual grime. If your not going to use a product like POR15 (I didnt) use a self etching primer then follow up with an enamel paint. Both my axles have held up well running through the brush and mesquit and trails. Your biggest job is the prep work. If you dont get it good and clean no paint is going to stick and is going to look like crap after a few seasons / runs / snows whatever.
 
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