What to look for

[Tybee]

Congrats and good luck with the swap! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[arveetek]

You won't be able to use your 350 PS pump, it's different and won't bolt up to the diesel. Go ahead and get the diesel PS pump installed. You'll have to mix and match the PS hoses, though, in order to get it to work. I forgot about that. On the diesel, the pressure side of the PS pump goes to the hydroboost, and then down to the PS, and then back to the pump, IIRC. I'll have to go look at my '86 to remember for sure.

I'm just using a small, like 1 gallon, air tank for my vacuum reservoir.

Good luck!

Casey

 

[tRustyK5]

I've got a deal brewing on a hydro boost set-up...I'll prolly just do it right away./forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Any engine compartment pic's would be greatly appreciated though. I kinda want an idea of where stuff is supposed to go, like the filter and water separator...

Thanks!!

Rene

 

[imiceman44]

There were some pics for the fuel setups, do a search on fuel filters here you will see them, they go on the firewall towards the passenger side.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[u2slow]

Any 1-ton has hydroboost - but you already know that I'm sure.

The only difference between a hydroboost power-steering and conventional pump is the extra return line. You can plug this off with a short piece of hose with a bolt clamped into the end.

I replaced the factory fuel filter assembly with a Racor - since a new one from GM was $400+. Cost me $225 from Valley Fuel Injection (Abbotsford). You lose the fuel heater, water-in-fuel indicator, and replace filter indicator (although Racor has add-ons for extra $$$) but not really necessary in our climate.

My pics are down - otherwise I'd show you.

I need to do a diesel swap on my crewcab (also has SM465) so keep us (ME!) up to date.... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[tRustyK5]

So will any hydro-boost fit the 6.2's PS brackets? Wouldn't the hydro-boost also have an extra pressure line for the brakes?

I will probably run the factory filter arrangement initially and swap to the racor later as funds allow (y'all know how that goes /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) $225 ain't bad I guess...are the guys at Valley good to deal with?

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
I need to do a diesel swap on my crewcab (also has SM465) so keep us (ME!) up to date....

[/ QUOTE ]

I'll be sure to let everyone know what I run into as far as problems. One good thing is the donor was already mated to a SM 465 so there is no need to chase down clutch parts and different starter.

Rene

 

[imiceman44]

Can't you get the fuel filter setup from the donor truck?
I am sure they don't want to part with the hydroboost so you'll have to find that in junk yards.

 

[u2slow]

I think most of the GM pumps are the same - its just the bracket and pulley that vary, and the thread (SAE vs. metric). You just need the proper puller to take off the pulley, swap the bracket, and re-install it.

Even if you have a burnt out pump, you can swap the hydroboost canister (just has an extra return line) onto another pump.

With hydro-boost, the steering box and booster are plumbed in series, but each has its own return line.

 

[Danno]

Pumps may be the same, but they do have at least two different types of hydroboost. One's for cars, like a Caprice station wagon, and then there's the truck version (what you want).

My hydroboost went out this summer, and the shop that worked on it got quite a surprise when they went to replace the hydroboost unit. The one on the truck was nothing like the one they ordered. Had to round up some extra parts (the pushrod was different, for certian) to convert BACK to the stock setup.

That's not the first thing I've found on my truck that made me want to kick the previous owner (a supposed mechanic) square in the nuts. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

Anyways... Good luck with the conversion. You'll love it once it's finished! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[u2slow]

I think the pushrod is different for just about every vehicle type! They come out easy enough, and you can swap them around. You just have to "pinch" it back into place again, just like the factory did.

The mounting plate can also be changed - its just threaded on.

And you may have to battle metric vs. SAE threads depending on the year.

 

[4X4CamperWanted]

I read in a manual that small percentages of gasoline in diesel fuel are not a problem. Can't remember the manual, but I have the original midship fuel tank in my Ford E350 7.3 NA camper converted from 460 gasoline and used to switch between gasoline for the generator and extra diesel for long range. Just pumped everything out of the tank and put in the other fuel, no problems at all with the small amount left in the tank.

 

[tRustyK5]

I found getting the gasoline out of the tank to be quite easy. I set up a 5 gallon jerry can under the front crossmember, (empty engine bay) stuck a funnel on the jerry can and blew compressed air into the fuel return line. I'd give it a little blast to bring the pressure in the fuel tank to about 2-3 psi. That was enough to push the remaining fuel in the tank out the 'feed' line...as soon as the flow of fuel started to trickle I'd give it another small blast of air through the return line. Within 10 minutes I had nothing but air coming out of the 'feed' line. I'll probably through a gallon of diesel into the tank and flush it through the same way...

Rene

 

[imiceman44]

Well gasoline has octane that will prevent detonnating, which is exctly how a diesel engine works so it's better to clean it out, but if you have traces that might be OK, but not more than traces.

 

[arveetek]

Whenever I converted to diesel, I always took the fuel tank(s) down and dumped out all of the gasoline, and then washed it out with kerosene followed by diesel. Just the way I did it.

Pouring some diesel into your tank(s) and then running it through ought to be fine.

Casey