CK5
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What to prep body with before rattle can paint job?
- Thread starter CK5
- Start date
I spray a rag with brakleen and wipe it down. Seems to work pretty good. Hell its just spray paint anyway. Lol
CrpMag122
1/2 ton status
I have no experience with it to back this up, but I have heard a lot of people that suggest MEK. You can't get it in the people's republic of California 
What color are you planning on doing? And is this just temporary or what? How long are you expecting it to last? I am interested in seeing the results. My k10 is going to need a paint job.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
Lacquer thinner is what the body shops use. It will flash off immediately, use a lint free cloth. Then wipe with a tack cloth, any auto paint store will have them and they are cheap. You'll need a good many of them for the whole body.
Side question: Have you scuffed the whole truck well? If not here is what my body shop guy gave me and it has worked very well for me over the years. Green scotch brite pad, wet and add cheap Comet. Or really any abrasive toilet bowl cleaner powder. Keep the surface of the body panel wet and just essentially wash the truck with it. You'll notice a slight haze to the finish afterwards. You will also be able to see any places you missed. Wash really well with a degreasing wash (dawn dish washing liquid).... Let it dry and do the thinner/tack cloth. If you can do it all in the same day out of the wind.
Rattle can can do a very nice job if you prep well and tape everything off well.
Side question: Have you scuffed the whole truck well? If not here is what my body shop guy gave me and it has worked very well for me over the years. Green scotch brite pad, wet and add cheap Comet. Or really any abrasive toilet bowl cleaner powder. Keep the surface of the body panel wet and just essentially wash the truck with it. You'll notice a slight haze to the finish afterwards. You will also be able to see any places you missed. Wash really well with a degreasing wash (dawn dish washing liquid).... Let it dry and do the thinner/tack cloth. If you can do it all in the same day out of the wind.
Rattle can can do a very nice job if you prep well and tape everything off well.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Lacquer thinner may bubble up the coating that's on there if you use it. I use a rag with alcohol (not beer) on it. I also haven't had good luck with cheap tack cloths, as they sometimes leave a residue. I've used more expensive cloths that didn't leave a residue though.
Just make sure it's clean with nothing flaking off.
Just make sure it's clean with nothing flaking off.
Haven't followed where you started this from but before doing any sanding it's important to clean any contaminants off so they don't get embedded into the paint. You could wet sand with Dawn dish soap and then clean with prep sol or similar wax and grease remover.
Do not use brakekleen or other strong solvent as it may cause a chemical reaction with your present surface.
When you think your ready for paint try a test section first to make sure it goes on smooth and doesn't react to any surface contaminants.
Do not use brakekleen or other strong solvent as it may cause a chemical reaction with your present surface.
When you think your ready for paint try a test section first to make sure it goes on smooth and doesn't react to any surface contaminants.
following because I probably will be rattle canning at the last minute.
Years ago when I mixed auto paints at a parts & body shop supply store,quite a few paint jobs were spoiled when some customers (even a few "experienced" auto body shop owners & employees) ,used Dupont "Prep-Sol" to wash down the vehicle after sanding and before using tack rags to remove any dust--they failed to read the directions on the Prep-Sol can,it stated it MUST be washed off with fast drying enamel reducer to remove all traces of the Prep-Sol before painting,otherwise it could lead to loss of adhesion..
Those who failed to follow up with the enamel reducer had the paint start coming off in "sheets" ,patches about 1-2" would simply flake off a short time after the pant cured fully,usually a few weeks,and the car owners went ballistic..
Dupont did not reccomend laquer thinner as the final "wash" due to the fact it was likely to make any remaining old paint or fresh primers to bubble up ,it acts like paint remover on many finishes..
This might not apply to todays paints on newer vehicles --water based enamels were just becoming the norm back when I got out of that part of the job..
Those who failed to follow up with the enamel reducer had the paint start coming off in "sheets" ,patches about 1-2" would simply flake off a short time after the pant cured fully,usually a few weeks,and the car owners went ballistic..
Dupont did not reccomend laquer thinner as the final "wash" due to the fact it was likely to make any remaining old paint or fresh primers to bubble up ,it acts like paint remover on many finishes..
This might not apply to todays paints on newer vehicles --water based enamels were just becoming the norm back when I got out of that part of the job..
Satin black, temporary until I get it painted in a year or two.
