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What way to mount a trans cooler?

max 02

max 02

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I got a 77 k20 with a th350.

I think the factory cooler in the rad is leaking...seems like there is trans fluid in the antifreeze.
I am just going to bypass the rad and use a auxiliary cooler.

What is the best way to run the cooler....

IMG_4793.JPG
 
A right?

B and C allow air to be trapped at the tops of the rows.
 
Thanks

Does the Return and feed lines seem right?
Or does it even matter if they run on the top or bottom?
 
The original configuration, going through the radiator, is not just to keep the trans cool. It also helps warm it up to operating temps much quicker. You live in a cold climate, so something to think about.
 
My 80 did the same thing Dean. I just bypassed it and called it a day. Your not dd'ing it, I wouldn't worry about it running cool on you. Slap some neer boxes in front of the cooler and call it a day :pimp:
 
I just spent a lot of time on this issue. Through the radiator is the best, water cools 32x more efficiently then air. I skipped the radiator cooler because of packaging and routing issues. Ended up running 2 large fluidyne coolers with 9" spal fans. Hot fluid in the top, cooled fluid out the bottom. From your drawing I would say A is best followed by C but I ran a cooler like B and it also worked. Air flow is the key to the cooler, in front of the radiator or add a good fan. Tube coolers are less likely to trap air then flat plate style. I'm no expert but I do go wheeling almost every weekend. My trans cooler setup cost close to $2000 with all the odds and ends.
 
I like to run my trans cooler lines direct to the cooler and bypass the radiator because of the issue with trans cooler tub in the radiator leaking trans fluid into the coolant sometimes. I have mostly run my trans coolers in the A configuration you have in your diagram, but my 1-ton crew cab came from the factory with a trans cooler running in the B configuration, thus that is the way I run it.
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I did look it up before i posted.

So many opinions, this truck is a pile.... i should have mentioned that in the post. Getting it to work is the main object right now. longevity is not a big concern.

Quick and dirty for this one.... if it works we can move on to big and better things.

I will go with option A understanding that it would be best to run through the rad first and then a cooler.
 
If its mounted ALOT higher than the transmission, and the cooler is big, and you want to eliminate trans fluid running back into the the transmission when the truck is not running... then C would be the way to mount it
 
Blazooki said:
If its mounted ALOT higher than the transmission, and the cooler is big, and you want to eliminate trans fluid running back into the the transmission when the truck is not running... then C would be the way to mount it
Click to expand...

Yeah It will Just be behind the grill.

Yours is behind the cab isn't it?
 
max 02 said:
Yeah It will Just be behind the grill.

Yours is behind the cab isn't it?
Click to expand...

yeah..its also almost level with the transmission and the fluid has to go thru a filter backwards if it wants to drain back into the tranny...Thats why I wasn't to concerned about which way I mounted the cooler...from what I read leak back can be a deal in rock racers and baja rigs, when they mount the big coolers high up on the cages like in the rear window.
 
1-ton said:
I like to run my trans cooler lines direct to the cooler and bypass the radiator because of the issue with trans cooler tub in the radiator leaking trans fluid into the coolant sometimes. I have mostly run my trans coolers in the A configuration you have in your diagram, but my 1-ton crew cab came from the factory with a trans cooler running in the B configuration, thus that is the way I run it.
Click to expand...

One thing I have to add is that my Original Equipment trans cooler is a"Tub & Fin" design, which can get away with being plumbed in the B configuration, and not an S-type trans cooler which should be plumbed in the A configuration. The trans cooler being mounted higher than the trans and having fluid flow back into the trans is something I never thought of. I have thought of it with electric fuel pumps, but not trans coolers...it does stand to reason
 
I have run both the stock coolers and aftermarket external coolers and both have been fine. What's so wrong with going to the parts store and getting a stock radiator with cooler? I get it that if the truck is a "pile" the price of parts is a factor. You are about to spend $ on an aftermarket cooler, have to find a place to mount it and are asking questions about if it will work properly or not. If trans fluid is mixing with antifreeze then the radiator is basically toast all ready. Just go get the right part and an hour of wrenching later you have fixed the trans cooler and have prevented a radiator leak in the near future. Good luck with your truck.
 
HankScorpio said:
I have run both the stock coolers and aftermarket external coolers and both have been fine. What's so wrong with going to the parts store and getting a stock radiator with cooler? I get it that if the truck is a "pile" the price of parts is a factor. You are about to spend $ on an aftermarket cooler, have to find a place to mount it and are asking questions about if it will work properly or not. If trans fluid is mixing with antifreeze then the radiator is basically toast all ready. Just go get the right part and an hour of wrenching later you have fixed the trans cooler and have prevented a radiator leak in the near future. Good luck with your truck.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with buying new rad, good idea if this truck was going to be a DD. It is a truck we got for free because the trans slips and the brakes don`t work let alone the body is all rusted out and dented to shit. What we have found with it so far is that if the trans fluid is up to level it shifts fine.

We noticed the oil in the radiator when we where checking the freeze point of the antifreeze. Figured that must be the leak because the guy we got it from said it has a internal leak inside the trans that's why it slips. "Never heard that before" He obviously did not notice the oil in the antifreeze.

I gave the truck to my 15 year old son to build as a toy for around the farm. He and I have already fixed up a 01 Duramax that he bought when he was 12.
That truck is for DD duty when he get his licence. This truck is for cheep fun and experience for him to weld on.

I got 3 coolers sitting here to take my pick from for this truck, I never asked if it will work properly, just what way would be best to mount it. The way to mount it after reading all the posts seems to really not matter all that much.

Yes a new radiator would be best. But this old 77 is getting bypassed for free. If that fails to work is getting 465 swapped. :D
 
max 02 said:
Nothing wrong with buying new rad, good idea if this truck was going to be a DD. It is a truck we got for free because the trans slips and the brakes don`t work let alone the body is all rusted out and dented to shit. What we have found with it so far is that if the trans fluid is up to level it shifts fine.

We noticed the oil in the radiator when we where checking the freeze point of the antifreeze. Figured that must be the leak because the guy we got it from said it has a internal leak inside the trans that's why it slips. "Never heard that before" He obviously did not notice the oil in the antifreeze.

I gave the truck to my 15 year old son to build as a toy for around the farm. He and I have already fixed up a 01 Duramax that he bought when he was 12.
That truck is for DD duty when he get his licence. This truck is for cheep fun and experience for him to weld on.

I got 3 coolers sitting here to take my pick from for this truck, I never asked if it will work properly, just what way would be best to mount it. The way to mount it after reading all the posts seems to really not matter all that much.

Yes a new radiator would be best. But this old 77 is getting bypassed for free. If that fails to work is getting 465 swapped. :D
Click to expand...

Atta boy :waytogo:
 
Your transmission will likely go out in short order if coolant migrated into it via the defective cooler in the radiator..the clutch packs dont like anti-freeze,nor do bearings and O-rings..
 
diesel4me said:
Your transmission will likely go out in short order if coolant migrated into it via the defective cooler in the radiator..the clutch packs dont like anti-freeze,nor do bearings and O-rings..
Click to expand...

Tell me about it :rolleyes:

No clue how long mine was leaking, but I ran the truck a couple miles after swapping motors and she went bye bye :rotfl:
 
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