CK5
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what would you pay for a cv driveshaft?

is it a superduty 1350 cv shaft? i like to pay 75 bucks for a nice one. but finding the short one that fits is kinda hard. id pay 150 for it.
 
This is a stock length blazer shaft but with the cv joints on it up top instead of just the ujoint...ready to throw in and go...I'm thinking its a rare find to see one for sale that needs no mods. The way I see it is it's gonna cost me almost that much to have my stock one re-balanced and lengthened after throwing it before my truck got parked for 4 years, so why not just grab this one and be done with it?
 
Pic of it in the middle sitting next to two other blazer shafts:

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thats a great deal really. driveshafts unlimited here wants 500 bucks for the same shaft.


if it were me, have it checked and re balanced, a "bent" driveshaft cost me lots of trouble. tube was perfect, it was just welded on crooked.


also is it the full spline aftermarket slip or the half spline Cadillac slip?
 
the newer aftermarket slip yokes have splines the full length of the slip, whereas the gm Cadillac slip is spline only about halfway. so the outermost part of the slip yoke isnt splined at all.

you can pull a 1350 cv driveshaft from old cadillacs with a th400.

those cars have CVs on both ends of the driveshaft, one side works great for the rear shaft with a new weld yoke put on for a 14 bolt, then the axle end bolts right up to the front output on the tcase for the front shaft.

either way somebody spent alot of money to get that shaft made.
 
As long as the C/V is good and tight and it's the full-spline slip, it's an acceptable price. A driveline shop once quoted me that much just to replace the slip joint on my front drive-shaft. If the C/V needs a rebuild, the shaft is worth much less. If so, get a quote for the rebuild first so you know what you're looking at.

Some people get rid of the slip-yoke output altogether, but if you do that later on you might get your money back out of this shaft.
 
Play, yea if the joints are really tossed you may feel it. The other consideration is how tight the thing is, as in when you move the knuckle around are you feeling the spring. It should not flop around easily, if it does scrap it. The other major thing to know is if it aftermarket full spline or not.
From what ive seen, the aftermarket ones have greasable joints and center ball. The ones from a cadillac are not, sure you could get it re-built with greasable joints.IIRC the rebuild kit was about $90 when i had mine done.

Durability is another factor, i had a full greasable full spline i bought off of CL it was nice and tight with plenty of spring action, The POS came the F**K apart after about 1500 miles(all pavement at the time). I Took my ass out to pick n pull found a caddy ,pulled the driveshaft and munched the end at the diff with torque converter.$30 later for a damaged part i had it set to the proper length.5k miles later not a problem to report .

Material for a standard driveshaft is$30-$40 and an hour labor at a driveshaft shop(was $65/hr)
 
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