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What year D44 Axle would work???

Big Blzn

Big Blzn

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I want to get a D44 out of a 3/4 ton so I have the 8-lug hubs and 4:10 gears rather than doing the swap of the hubs, breaks and also the gears. I have a '72 k5 so my question is what range of year can I look for as far as the body styles go that would be a direct replacement swap without a lot of unnecessary work. Want to make sure the axle width is fine too. Am I looking at an axle out of a '72-'91 or what? Please opine. Thanks
Hoby
 
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d44 from 67 to 79 but the best ones are 73 to 77 (flat tops, disc, and bigger u-joints). Then the 10 bolt from 78 or 79 to 1987, or blazer/sub till 1991. All these will bolt right in assuming you have the complete axle.

My favorite 3/4 ton setup is a 10 bolt housing with the proper gears you need then d44 (73-77 flat top knuckles and tierod) with 10 bolt 8-lug (internal) hubs, bearings and spindles.
 
All GM front axles from 69-87 (91 blazer, sub, crewcab) are a direct swap. The only thing you need to look out for is some axle tubes were larger diameter and require a different U-bolt and spring plate. Personally, if you already have the gears you want it's easier to swap 6 lug outers for 8 lug outers. If you do this you'll need the caliper brackets, hub/rotor assembly and possibly the spindles depending on what year you find.
 
Besides for the flat top knuckles that can be found on some D44's, I personally prefer the 10-bolt fronts. A lot easier to find complete 10-bolts and spare parts in the junkyards nowadays, plus alot of times a little cheaper....D44's haven't been used in 30+ years now, where you can 10-bolts that are 10 years newer than any D44's.
 
Didn't you already have the parts setup to swap hubs?

If you go the whole axle route, find a later model one than the 72. The hubs use bigger bearings and are easier to find replacements for. Although since the hubs don't have any wear surfaces on them (except for the locking splines) even old/used ones should last a really long time.

I just finished my swap and it's really not difficult. In fact any junkyard axle you find will likely need new bearings anyway so you're not saving much work unless it's in super good shape.

The newer axles are setup with different kinds of seals so make sure you keep track of how it's assembled if you are taking on apart.
 
bp71k5 said:
Didn't you already have the parts setup to swap hubs?

If you go the whole axle route, find a later model one than the 72. The hubs use bigger bearings and are easier to find replacements for. Although since the hubs don't have any wear surfaces on them (except for the locking splines) even old/used ones should last a really long time.

I just finished my swap and it's really not difficult. In fact any junkyard axle you find will likely need new bearings anyway so you're not saving much work unless it's in super good shape.

The newer axles are setup with different kinds of seals so make sure you keep track of how it's assembled if you are taking on apart.
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Here is my train of thought on getting a new/used D44:
I do have most of the parts for the 8-lug swap, however, I didn't / forgot to ask the seller and he didn't let me know that the hubs I bought were external locking which everyone tells me are OK but that I really should get internal locking hubs because they are better and stronger. I have had a bitch of a time locating a pair of internal locking wheel hubs that are '76 or older (to use my current spindles) and when I do find them it's going to cost me a $100 more for these plus shipping from across the country. I don't have a lot of time to visit junk yards every weekend to do the checking. Also, I currently have 3.08 gears and don't have the confidence and know-how to install gears and make sure it is done right so I'd be spending another $400-$600 to have them done at a shop. I may be wrong but it just seems less $$ and time to get a used D44 with all the stuff I need and swap it in, which I could do. You are right about possiblly having to rebuild and axle though. Sorta just stuck on what the best course of action is.
Hoby
 
It's a whole different ball game like i said if your axle doesn't have the gears you want. In this case i would look for a 10 bolt axle complete for your swap. I would choose any 10 bolt axle up to 1988 which is a 28 spline axle, yes GM did go to 30 spline starting in 1989 but they are rumored to be weaker in the carrier department and also it is a 3 year only run for 30 spline. It is alot easier to locate 28 spline stuff should you ever break anything or need parts for whatever reason.
 
Yea, if gears need to change, I can see the issue. (Actually, thanks for the reminder that I need to do the same before engaging my front axle hubs. :))

If it helps any, there's tons of late 70's and early 80's suburbans out here with complete front d44 axles. I pillaged two of them for the spindles, hubs and caliper brackets. I'd expect the wrecking yards down there have them too?
 
Personally I would go with a d44 over the 10bolt. Though they're considered the same in strength, I consider the 10b to be very inferior and have had many problems with them. But I'm bias as I think they're crap:D

Just my .02
 
bp71k5 said:
If it helps any, there's tons of late 70's and early 80's suburbans out here with complete front d44 axles. I pillaged two of them for the spindles, hubs and caliper brackets. I'd expect the wrecking yards down there have them too?
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GM stopped using D44 front axles around 77-78, after that they are all 10 bolts.


carpeonnel said:
Personally I would go with a d44 over the 10bolt. Though they're considered the same in strength, I consider the 10b to be very inferior and have had many problems with them. But I'm bias as I think they're crap:D

Just my .02
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They are close in strength, the D44 has a little better shafts while the 10 bolt has a little better ring and pinion setup; primarily, the pinion is larger in diameter. Some people snap D44 pinion shafts, especially the lower gearsets. It is kind of a wash and most of the parts interchange between the two.
 
38377k5 said:
GM stopped using D44 front axles around 77-78, after that they are all 10 bolts.




They are close in strength, the D44 has a little better shafts while the 10 bolt has a little better ring and pinion setup; primarily, the pinion is larger in diameter. Some people snap D44 pinion shafts, especially the lower gearsets. It is kind of a wash and most of the parts interchange between the two.
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If you're talking about D44 versus 10 bolt only the outers will interchange, everything else is completely different.
 
yeah the PO of my d44 didnt know that. It had a 10b driver's side axleshaft it in. Took me a minute to figure out what the hell was wrong when I was tearing it down
 
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