Ok, my project keeps getting more expensive but such is life. I'm thinking of going from 3.73 to 4.11 or lower. What do I look for when searching for a shop to do the job? What would the total cost be for a gm 10 bolt (front and rear)? The previous owner told me that the rear was just rebuilt although there is chalk on the rear diff that says "89" I have a 1990 sub. Nothing leaks, do I have to replace anything other than the ring and pinion? What brand of gears are at least as good as GM originals? How much. Thanks.
CK5
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Whats a fair price for upgrading gears?
- Thread starter shum1
- Start date
Everybody on here is going to say really cheap prices because they have hookups at the places they go. Its alot more expensive when you don't have a mechanic friend or something doing the work. I'd say 400-500 in parts and 500-900 in labor for front and back.
'73 K5
Chevy good...Ford bad
'73 K5
Chevy good...Ford bad
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
The prices I got from DTS are:
$131 per Ring and Pinion for a 44 and 12bolt. This was Motive Gear. I usually try to use Richmond, but Richmonds are expensive. DTS said Motive was just as good as Richmond but about half the price.
Install kit run about $60-$100 Per diff.
Now here is the crappy part. I called a diff place near me. They work on semi's mostly, but also do cars and trucks. They quoted me $1500 to change ratios front and rear!
I am sure you can get somewhere else to do it fo r less, i would guess about $600-$800 would be fair. That is using this estimated price range:
R&P - $150 per diff
Install kit - $100 per diff
Labor - 2 hours per axle at about $50 a hour - $200
I estimated all of these and used high numbers but it will give you an idea.
Let me tell you this though, go somewhere that is reccomended by someone, I got hose form this same place I got the quote from when I had them set up my 12 bolt. I borught them the axle completely disassembled and ready to put back together. They said that it took them 6 hours to do it with Brand new Richmond gears. I talked to a Richmond rep about htat and he said if the person knows what they are doing it should take any more than 30 - 1 hour!!!
And one other thing, Dana Ring and Pinions are considered weak but alot of people, even DTS(who sells Dana) say to use a different brand!
My .02 cents!
HTH
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
$131 per Ring and Pinion for a 44 and 12bolt. This was Motive Gear. I usually try to use Richmond, but Richmonds are expensive. DTS said Motive was just as good as Richmond but about half the price.
Install kit run about $60-$100 Per diff.
Now here is the crappy part. I called a diff place near me. They work on semi's mostly, but also do cars and trucks. They quoted me $1500 to change ratios front and rear!
I am sure you can get somewhere else to do it fo r less, i would guess about $600-$800 would be fair. That is using this estimated price range:
R&P - $150 per diff
Install kit - $100 per diff
Labor - 2 hours per axle at about $50 a hour - $200
I estimated all of these and used high numbers but it will give you an idea.
Let me tell you this though, go somewhere that is reccomended by someone, I got hose form this same place I got the quote from when I had them set up my 12 bolt. I borught them the axle completely disassembled and ready to put back together. They said that it took them 6 hours to do it with Brand new Richmond gears. I talked to a Richmond rep about htat and he said if the person knows what they are doing it should take any more than 30 - 1 hour!!!
And one other thing, Dana Ring and Pinions are considered weak but alot of people, even DTS(who sells Dana) say to use a different brand!
My .02 cents!
HTH
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
keith
1/2 ton status
I bought a gear locker combo for the front and rear for around $1000 and then paid $175 front and $175 rear for the install. The 1000 also included all bearings and crush sleeve and all that jazz.
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
Could be, I have never used them. I have richmonds and the shop I went to said that they are hard to set up also! I think it is all the shop that does the work, maybe they just dont want to do it.
Who knows.
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
Who knows.
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
I heard from the people at randy's ring and pinion that it is cheaper if you can pull the axel and strip it down then take it to an axel shop. Also you may have to change the carrier going up in ratio but whoever sells you the setup can tell you if you will be ok with the carrier you have.
90K5
1/2 ton status
My 90 said 88 on the rear diff, framerails and the firewall. Its just a production code or something. I guess it means yours was made right after mine.
90K5
90K5
FWP
CRS
Have you thought of doing the install yourself (only if you can be without the truck for awhile)? You save some $$ and you get to learn some coool stuff. You may need to buy some more tools- but that's a good thing!!
<font color=blue>Maverick</font color=blue> <font color=red>CH 4 or 35</font color=red>
<font color=blue>Maverick</font color=blue> <font color=red>CH 4 or 35</font color=red>
Thanks again for all the help. FWP, I'm a do it your selfer in everthing I do, but man, after reading the gear swap feature at this site, I really dont know if I have the feel for what it takes to do it right. It looks like there ar alot of ways to screw up if its your first time. But Ill definitely consider it. This may be one job where the 300 clams in labor could be a bargin for me. Thanks.
Emmettology 101
3/4 ton status
Shum - Richmond sells a video that walks you through the steps of setting up a rearend. It is only about $18 and you can get it at Summit or Jeg's and I think you can order it off of their site -> http://www.richmondgear.com
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
Mike
See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -> http://emmett.coloradok5.com
It's generally considered not worth the cost and effort to change ratios unless you go two steps or more (i.e., don't bother stepping from 3.93 to 4.11).
I'm not sure about the 30-spline 10-bolts, but the earlier ones use the same carrier for everything lower (numerically higher) than 2.73. So the carrier swap is usually only an issue for car 10-bolts.
New 4x4 driver: "A lot of money in that truck, eh?"
Me: "Oh, about 1/4 of a new one"
I'm not sure about the 30-spline 10-bolts, but the earlier ones use the same carrier for everything lower (numerically higher) than 2.73. So the carrier swap is usually only an issue for car 10-bolts.
New 4x4 driver: "A lot of money in that truck, eh?"
Me: "Oh, about 1/4 of a new one"
Mr Blue: I have 3.73 rear, 700r OD tranny, 350 tbi suburban, I run 31" tires now and like the power. I want to get 33's. I just have a feeling its gonna be a dog. You say its not worth it for me to move up to 4.10? I really could use the money saved by not doing this. Would 32" tires be a better setup? Thanks
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
I went from 31's to 33's last Jan. and I couldn't tell a whole lot of difference in acceleration or anything else for that matter. I have the stock, untouched 3.73's in my 12-bolt and d44 and a "targetmaster" goodwrench crate motor that was put in last November. Great motor by the way. It runs like a champ. I'd just save the cash unless you feel like you NEED to rebuild your axles.
HTH,
Buddy
I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
HTH,
Buddy
I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
Hey BUDDY, just wondering, do you have O.D.? How is it up in the hills? What tires did you go with (I guess different brands vary in advertised diameter). My brother just bought an old blazer he too is an intern arc in Denver(I just glanced at your profile) anyways thanks.
Hey BUDDY, just wondering, do you have O.D.? How is it up in the hills? What tires did you go with (I guess different brands vary in advertised diameter). My brother is thinking about gettin an older blazer or sub. He too is an intern arc in Denver(I just glanced at your profile) anyways thanks.
Burt4x4
1 Ton First Gen
I am running 33incher Dunlop MudRovers with 3.73s. I have enough power to toss up some nice roosters in the mud and sand! Sometimes I do wonder how my power would be with 4.10s but don't really have the extra 1000 bucks layin around to find out. Some day thou if the time comes were I need new R&P in front or back gonna change it then!!
Good luck
72K5
Led Zeppelin
Rock ON!
http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com
Good luck
72K5
http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
Shum1,
I have a TH350 auto and my tires are 33x12.50r15 MUD KINGS. I really like these tires. They're cheap, aggressive and quiet. I don't have a tach, but I would guess that at 70mph I'm turning about 2400-2800 rpm. I do want a overdrive, but when I do it I'll step up to a nv4500 and get it to work.
HTH,
Buddy
I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
I have a TH350 auto and my tires are 33x12.50r15 MUD KINGS. I really like these tires. They're cheap, aggressive and quiet. I don't have a tach, but I would guess that at 70mph I'm turning about 2400-2800 rpm. I do want a overdrive, but when I do it I'll step up to a nv4500 and get it to work.
HTH,
Buddy
I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
KING K5
1/2 ton status
Shum1
I'm running a th350 with 3.07's and 33x12.50-15's and I have plenty of power for highway but it does bog a little in the hills, with 3.73's I feel I'd be good to go and it's not worth the $ to just go from 3.73's to 4.10's.
I'll be going to 4.56's when I get the cash cause I want to run 36-38's.
Save your money!
I'm running a th350 with 3.07's and 33x12.50-15's and I have plenty of power for highway but it does bog a little in the hills, with 3.73's I feel I'd be good to go and it's not worth the $ to just go from 3.73's to 4.10's.
I'll be going to 4.56's when I get the cash cause I want to run 36-38's.
Save your money!
